Renaissance Man Mark A. Powell - Airco DH2 (1-32).pdf - Modelarstwo - Modele Kartonowe do segregacji - jchudzinski

1/32 Airco DH 2 Instructions

Methods

Before you begin the construction process, I w ant to impress upon builders the importance of allowing each

part to dry COMPL ETELY before moving on to t he next s tep. Whe n your wo rking o n a mode l with par ts

as thin as some of the parts on this model are, this is VERY important.

To aid you with placement of parts, several pictures, drawings and figures have been included to indicat e

reasonably well where various parts, etc, go .

Fold-overs

Fold-overs are parts that need to be thicker than one sheet of

card stock or need to be colored on both sides. To the right there

is a figure of the tail boom fold-over.

To construct:

- Cut part from page

- Scribe along middle and fold over

- Trim as necessary

- Cut numbe r of ins erts indicated in the instructions o r

you can use thicker stock to your own discretion

- Rub stick glue (or your choice of glue) on part side of

the inside of the fold-over

- Place insert along middle line and rub down, glue

down additional inserts as necessary

- Rub glue on last insert and rub down colored side of

fold-over

- Place in book and let dry at least 2 hours, overnight is

preferable

- When part is dry cut with a SHARP hobby knife

INSERT

Double printing

Double printing is used for the nacelle and ammo storage on this model. Print the pages you will need then

flip the nacelle page over and print the grey rectangle on page 8. This makes the part s easier to work with

and keeps the thickness more to scale.

Tubing and tube shaped parts

I use wood dowels, nails, markers or any thing that is rou nd that is close to the diameter of the tube shaped

part I am making. In the instructions, I will advise you what size I found best to use. With some of the

smaller parts, you may find it advantageous to print the part on regular paper. This will make the part easier

to roll. You don’t have to find a dowel the exact size. In fact, I found it better to use one that is smaller and

roll and glue the card stock or paper up to the size of the part. The glue, when dry, makes the part easier to

handle and the part holds its shape better.

You will notice that the last page consists of different co lored squares. The squares can be used to make

custom parts or be used as tubing stock. Rather than make lots of small pieces that will drive you nuts

trying to roll, I've included pages of colored squares you can cut out and roll to the desired diameter. Than

simply s lice of f the de sired length. Print o ut as many a s you ne ed.

This project isn't for the beginner, but with a few simpler models under your belt, it won't prove to be too

hard. It isn't possible to list all the different methods o ne could use, so I've tried to give you a few that might

make things easier.

If you get stuck as always just e-mail us at sbucher@hydrosoft.net and we'll help you all we can.

Enjo y the mod el

Model Construction

Tail numbers

This model includes parts for three different planes. Use parts as follows:

All wheel covers are red

Tail 5967 – Use parts on pages 1thru 4

Tail 6011 – Substitute parts on Pages 5 and 6

Tail 7862 – Substitute parts on pages 5 and 6 except for nacelle, use cream

nacelle on page 1. All struts are grey.

Custom – Blank tails are located on page 7 for you customizing

Fold-overs

I find it better to glue the fold-overs first. By the time you need them they will be dry

and ready to cut.

Using stick glue, glue the following (applicable to tail #5967, substitue parts as nessesary

for other tail numbers):

Page 2 Part

# of inserts

Prop

Ammo storage

Engine pan

Engine block rear supports

Fuel tank

Seat back

Page 3

Struts

Control cable risers

Rudder

Elevator

Page 4

Tail booms 3

Landing gear structure 2

Landing gear axle and stretchers 2

Nacelle

All nacelle parts are located on page 1 or 6

NOTE:

If would like to do a high amount of detail on the nacelle there is a

blank interior on page 7. There is also a companion file to this

model with high graphics for the nacelle.

First carefully cut all parts from page 1(Ensure page has been double printed)

Lightly scribe corner lines on floor if you wish with a dead pen and fold sides up

NOTE:

If you prefer you can cut the interior sides and floor apart and glue

them individually. I find this works better.

Front tips of side walls will extend beyond the front exterior walls

Scribe and fold nacelle interior, then apply stick glue to back side and glue to nacelle

After glue has dried, cut grey rectangle from rear of floor and strut holes

Roll top of nacelle, then carefully align floor and side and butt glue side to edge of floor.

Use a small glue strip to connect front tips of nacelle and form before glue dries

After glue dries, apply glue to back side nacelle interior where it extends beyond exterior

and bottom of front nacelle extension. Carefully attach sides and top of nose section. Let

glue dry.

Carefully butt glue middle nose strip 1/8 to ¼ inch at a time. Trim to fit ends as necessary

Do the same with the bottom nose strip.

Glue seat and fuel tank in place.

NACELLE

Fuel tank

Glue strip

NOSE

Middle Strip

Interior extension

Bottom Strip

Engine

Engine parts are located on page 2

Make the engine block first. Using a 9/16 inch dowel and a strip cut from page 9, wrap and glue

strip around dowel about 2 to 3 turns. Compare to block disks for exact size. Leave on dowel

until dry. Don't glue card stock to dowel, move ring if necessary. Glue front and rear disks to

ring.

Glue together all other rings in a similar fashion using dowel sizes indicated below. Number of

wraps my vary.

- Front ring

7/16

- Back ring

3/16

- Prop hub

3/8

I make the cylinders out of regular paper using 3/16 inch dowel

Glue engine mount in place by leaving tabs on the sides of mount or glue strip.

Curve and Glue engine pan in place. The front of the pan is glued just forward of the hole.

NOTE:

Tail number 5967 utilized a 2 bladed prop

Cut and glue prop blades to hub. Bend blades as necessary.

I do not glue the engine and prop in place until the rigging is completed but you my do so at this

time if you wish

Wings

Wings are located on pages 1 or 5. Upper wing middle sections are on pages 3 or 6.

The wings are simple and straight forward. Cut wing pieces from sheets, lightly scribe

and fold over wings. Then apply glue of choice to backside of trailing edge. Align

trailing edge and press down. Let glue dry.

Apply small amount of glue to outboard end of wings with pin or needle and press

together.

NOTE:

The angle of the wings can be easily attained by placing

wood pencils under the third rib from the outboard end of

the wings when gluing

Glue upper wing sections together using glue strips (Same color as top of wing) and

spacers under wing ensuring proper angle. See drawings

Toothpicks

Pencils

See drawings for placement of the bottom wings. You will see the wings stick out the

back and bottom of nacelle. Glue the bottom wings to nacelle.

Cut the wing struts from the fold-over.

There are many ways to join the upper and lower wings of a biplane together. The

following is the way I find the easiest.

Glue the 4 grey inboard struts to the upper wing ensuring they are straight and on the

alignment dots. When the glue has set rest upper wing on bottom wing ensure the wings

are straight with each other from the top and front and struts are staight. Trim struts if

necessary. Place a small amount of glue on JUST ONE alignment dot on the bottom

wing. Hold strut in place until set. Place glue on alignment dot of opposite wing,

bending strut slightly to the side if necessary. Hold in place if necessary ensuring wings

are staying straight. Repeat for other two struts. Let glue dry.

Gluing in the middle and outboard struts is done in the same fashion. Trim them if

necessary.

Now is the best time to string the wing structure rigging since the tail booms are fragile.

See drawings.

Renaissance Man Mark A. Powell - Airco DH2 (1-32).pdf

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