IM Canon EOS 1000 [en].pdf

Using the Canon EOS Rebel/1000* cameras - an unofficial manual.

http://photonotes.org/manuals/eos-rebel-s-ii/

The information here, an unofficial user manual, applies to 14 different Canon EOS camera

models that are basically variants of the same design.

These models are the EOS 1000, EOS 1000F, EOS 1000F QD, EOS Rebel, EOS Rebel S, EOS

Rebel S Quartz Date, EOS 1000 QD, EOS 1000N, EOS 1000FN, EOS 1000FN QD, EOS Rebel

II, EOS Rebel S II, EOS 1000S QD and EOS 1000S QDP.

Since it ’ s pretty cumbersome to list all these different models over and over I ’ ll just refer to

them as the Rebel/1000* series of cameras. However, this information does not apply to

any of the later Canon low-end cameras, such as the EOS Rebel X, Rebel XS, Kiss, New

Kiss, Kiss III, Kiss III L, Rebel 2000, Rebel G, EOS 500, EOS 3000, EOS 3000N and so on.

There are many similiarities between these models, but many of the specifics are different.

Table of Contents:

About the EOS Rebel/1000* cameras

Differences between the various models

Total Beginner Guide to the EOS Rebel/1000*

Shutter release button

Loading and unloading film

Installing/removing a lens

Manual focussing

Main dial

Command (mode) dial

Lock mode (L)

“ Image zone ” (PIC) modes

Full auto.

Portrait mode.

Landscape mode.

Close-up mode.

Sports mode.

Winding, focussing and metering modes

Single-frame wind

Continuous wind

One-shot AF (autofocus)

AI ( “ artificial intelligence ” ) servo mode

Evaluative metering

Partial metering

Centre-weighted average metering

“ Creative zone ” modes

Program AE (auto-exposure) mode

Adjusting program AE (program shift, exposure compensation)

Shutter priority AE mode (Tv)

Aperture priority AE mode (Av)

Metered Manual mode (M)

Depth of field AE mode (DEP)

ISO

Self-timer

Self-timer tunes

Tripod socket

Soft-focus

Main dial shift

Partial metering button

Flash

Multiple exposure

Mid-roll rewind

Film prewind

Batteries

Date back

The EOS Rebel/1000* and high-speed infrared film

Attaching manual-focus lenses or telescopes (stop-down metering)

Some limitations of the EOS Rebel/1000* cameras

Accessories and whatnot

About the EOS Rebel/1000* cameras.

These cameras were a line of very popular low-end consumer SLR cameras sold by Canon in

the early 1990s. They were marketed under the manly, tough and virile tradename “ Rebel ”

in the US and Canada, and under the series name “ EOS 1000 ” in the rest of the world.

They all featured extremely lightweight curved black all-plastic body construction, fully

computerized automation and a reduced feature set aimed at beginners. They were the low-

end of Canon ’ s SLR lineup and were also the last consumer EOS cameras to use

pentaprisms - the next generation used cheaper, lighter and dimmer hollow mirrors instead.

These are Canon ’ s official Canon Museum pages on the cameras:

http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/1987-1991/data/1990_eos1000_qd.html

http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/1992-1996/data/1992_eos1000s_qd.html

Differences between the various models.

Although this document was written originally for the Rebel S II camera most of the

information here also applies to the other models as well. Here are the differences between

them.

EOS 1000

Introduced in 1990 and the first of the new low-cost line. This was the worldwide name,

used everywhere except North America and Japan. No built-in flash.

EOS 1000F

The EOS 1000 with a built-in flash.

EOS 1000F QD

The EOS 1000 with both a flash and a quartz date-printing back.

EOS Rebel

The version of the EOS 1000 sold in Canada and the USA. No built-in flash.

EOS Rebel S

The EOS Rebel with a built-in flash. (presumably Canon USA used the “ S ” designation to

mean “ equipped with a built-in strobe ” instead of the more logical “ F ” for “ flash ” )

EOS Rebel S Quartz Date

The EOS Rebel with both a flash and a quartz date-printing back.

EOS 1000 QD

The EOS 1000 sold in Japan, which featured both built-in flash and a quartz date-printing

back.

EOS 1000N

A largely improved version of the EOS 1000, introduced in 1992. This was the worldwide

name, used everywhere except North America and Japan. No built-in flash.

It was basically identical to the original EOS 1000 except that it featured a slightly higher

top shutter speed (1/2000 sec versus 1/1000), faster autofocus, a soft focus function, tune-

playing during self-timer mode, the ability to turn off the in-focus beep and supposedly a

slightly quieter film transport mechanism.

There was one area in which the earlier model was superior, however. The Rebel/1000

featured a digital match-needle for metered manual mode, whereas the later Rebel

II/1000N cameras featured simplistic +/- metering symbols.

EOS 1000FN

The EOS 1000N with a built-in flash. In addition to the added features of the 1000N, the

1000FN also had a red-eye reduction lamp and an improved guide number - 14 versus 12

for the 1000F.

EOS 1000FN QD

The EOS 1000N with both flash and a quartz date-printing back.

EOS Rebel II

The version of the EOS 1000 sold in Canada and the USA. No built-in flash.

EOS Rebel S II

The Rebel II with a built-in flash, and the version I owned - hence the name of this

document. I don ’ t know if a quartz date version was ever sold in North America. Like the

1000FN, the Rebel S II had red-eye reduction and a guide number of 14 compared to 12 for

the Rebel S.

EOS 1000S QD

The EOS 1000N with built-in flash and quartz date-printing back, sold only in Japan.

EOS 1000S QDP

The EOS 1000N with built-in flash, quartz date-printing back and user-settable panorama

mask, and sold only in Japan. (a mode that fakes a panorama view by masking out the top

and bottom of the negative)

Total Beginner Guide to the EOS Rebel/1000*.

To start, here ’ s a total beginner ’ s guide to the cameras.

1. Turn the camera off, if it was on, by turning the left-hand dial (looking from the

back of the camera) to the red square marked L for “ lock. ”

2. Make sure the camera has a working battery installed. The battery cover is on the

bottom, and the battery goes into the camera terminal-end (metal contacts) first.

3. Open the camera back. The release catch to the camera back is on the left side of

the camera when viewed from the back.

4. Take a fresh roll of 35mm film and slot it into the space on the left. The exposed bit

of film should protrude out to the right and the plastic cylindrical end should be at

the bottom.

5. Pull the film tongue out as far as the orange mark on the right side of the camera. Be

extremely careful not to poke the fragile shutter with your finger. (the shutter is the

black rectangle with the sort of Venetian-blind panels in the middle of the camera)

6. Close the camera back. The camera will whir and wind for a half minute or so.

7. When the camera has finished prewinding, the film icon and the total number

of shots available on the film will be displayed on the top screen, meaning

everything ’ s ready to go. If the flashing circle icon appears on the panel on

the top then the film did not load correctly and you ’ ll probably have to open the

camera back and line up the film with the orange mark.

8. Turn the left-hand dial to the green rectangle. This is the beginner mode.

9. Make sure the AF/MF switch on the lens is set to AF , for autofocus. Remove the lens

cap if necessary.

10. Look in the viewfinder and push the shutter release button halfway down. Whatever

is in the very centre of the viewfinder should snap into focus.

11. If a green dot in the viewfinder blinks it means your subject is not in focus. Try

refocusing again. You may need to find an object with a vertical line to focus on.

12. If the lightning bolt icon blinks in the viewfinder it means there isn ’ t enough

light, so lift up the flash at the top of the camera (if your camera comes with

built-in flash) to turn it on.

13. Push the shutter all the way to take the picture.

14. Have fun!

More in-depth information.

The rest of this page contains more detailed information on how to use this camera. Note

that this document is not meant to be a general-purpose photography manual. I ’ m going to

assume you know the basics of how cameras work and what standard terms (aperture

priority, etc.) mean.

If you want to learn more about this sort of beginner information please consult my Canon

EOS Beginner FAQ , which is full of frequently asked questions that photography novices

actually ask. And don ’ t forget that I have a complete online photographic dictionary

available as well which can provide you with definitions of most of if not all the common

technical terms you ’ ll find in this document.

Loading and unloading film.

The camera uses standard 35mm film (sometimes referred to as 135 film). Any 35mm film

canister will work in this camera. Colour, black and white, slide, print, 24 shots per roll, 36

shots per roll... whatever you like. The only limitation involves certain types of infrared film .

Naturally other film formats, such as APS, 110, Polaroid instant, medium format, etc.,

cannot be used with this camera, just as you can ’ t play an LP in a CD player.

Loading film.

● Check the film window in the camera back to ensure that no film is already installed. Then slide

the camera back lock release lever (located on the left side of the body) in the direction indicated.

The camera back will pop open.

● Take the film canister and turn it upside-down so that the plastic cylindrical end is at the bottom.

Slot it into the film chamber on the left side of the camera.

● Once the film is snugly seated pull the protruding film tongue out until the end is lined up with the

orange mark on the right side of the film chamber.

● Do this very carefully and avoid touching the shutter (the venetian blind-like section in the middle

of the camera) since it ’ s a very delicate mechanism. If you poke your fingers through the shutter

the camera will be useless.

● Make sure that the film is lying reasonably flat (it ’ ll want to curl, so you won ’ t be able to get it

totally flat) and then close the camera back.

● The camera should make faint whirring sounds for a half minute or so as it prewinds the film.

When it ’ s finished the total number of shots available on the roll will be displayed in the top deck

LCD panel. Occasionally film manufacturers will make a roll slightly longer than they ’ re rated for,

so don ’ t be surprised if you get 25 shots out of a 24 exposure roll, say.

● If the camera whirs for a few seconds and then stops and a film icon blinks in the top deck LCD it

means that the film did not load correctly, probably because you didn ’ t pull the film out of the

canister far enough. Open the camera back and make sure the end of the film tongue is aligned to

the orange mark.

● Note that although the camera uses a safety prewind system to minimize the risk of film being

wrecked by opening the camera back prematurely, there is no interlock mechanism in the camera

back. In other words, there is nothing to stop you from opening the camera back in the middle of

a shoot and ruining some of the photos you ’ ve just taken. So be careful when opening the camera

back, and never open it if shots remaining are displayed on the top-deck LCD panel. Press the

midroll rewind button first.

Unloading film.

● When you ’ ve used up all the exposures on a roll the camera will wind the remaining film back into

the canister and display a blinking film icon on the top deck LCD. It is now safe to open the

camera back and remove the film without risk of wrecking any shots.

● If you want to rewind the film midroll see the midroll film rewind section .

● Remember the warning in the loading section - there is nothing to prevent you from opening the

camera back before all the shots are safely used up and wound into the film canister. So double-

check before opening up the camera.

● Slide the camera back lock release lever and open the camera back. Take out the film.

Shutter release button.

The button under your right index finger when you hold the camera is, of course, the

shutter release. Pushing it halfway will turn metering on, will lock AE and also start

autofocus if your lens isn ’ t set to M or MF mode. The round in-focus dot lights up in the

viewfinder when automatic focus is achieved or, in manual focus mode, when the camera

thinks you ’ re focussed correctly. (note: the in-focus dot will not illuminate if you ’ re using a

lens that doesn ’ t contain EOS-compatible electronics, such as an old M42 screwmount lens

with an EOS adapter)

Pushing the button all the way will take the photo. (unless the subject isn ’ t in focus and the

lens is set to AF, in which case the camera will refuse) The best way to do this is to hold the

camera firmly, put your forefinger lightly on the button and then squeeze down. Don ’ t jab

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