Trestle Table.pdf

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Trestle Table

T

he trestle table as it was in Colonial times was a

large, functional piece up to 12' feet long by 24"

to 36" wide supported by two or three heavy T-

shaped trestles, hence the name. As you can imagine, it

was a hefty piece—solid, substantial and probably the

focus of whatever room in which it was placed. Each

trestle rested on a blocklike foot, beveled from the ends

to the upright, known as a shoe foot. Later, with the

introduction of the cyma curve, the feet, cleats and legs

became things of beauty. The trestles were connected

by a single stretcher or rail that passed through mortises

midway up from the floor. These were held in place by

wooden pegs. Tables like this became popular in the

mid-1600s and were used mostly in the kitchens of large

houses, in churches as communion tables and in other

public buildings. They remain popular today, and the

basic design has changed very little. The larger versions

were made of oak; the smaller ones usually of pine

(some had a pine top and a maple understructure).

Smaller versions, often made on farms, measured four

to six feet in length. Few originals have survived the

centuries. Those that have are found mostly in mu-

seums. Ours is the farmhouse version—6' long X 3'

wide X 30" high.

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pieces of stock, all 1" thick, sandwiched together to

make a solid base.

The method is straightforward and lends itself nicely

to simple construction techniques. The construction of

the feet and cleats provides ready-made mortises into

which the legs tightly fit. The three pieces of stock that

form the top are biscuited together, but you can use

dowels if you prefer. The legs are cut from a single piece

of stock 12" wide x 1" thick x 29" long; again, the design

of the legs makes good use of the cyma curve. The legs

are set into the feet and cleats and held in place with

3/4 " dowels, which are in turn permanently fixed in place

with one of the new polyurethane glues. The top is

attached to the legs using no. 10 x 3" wood screws.

CONSTRUCTION OUTLINE

The table is made exclusively from furniture-grade pine.

The top is made from three pieces of stock a full 1"

thick. The growth rings are alternated to ensure a more

stable structure. The trestles and stretcher are made

from the same 1" stock. The cleats and feet employ ex-

tensive use of the cyma curve. Each is made from four

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Use your band saw to cut the

feet to shape

BUILDING THE TABLE

STEP 1. Cut all the pieces to size.

STEP 2. Build the board that will become the top. Alter-

nate the growth rings to minimizethe effects of

warping.

STEP 3. Use a 1/2 " roundover bit in your router and

round over the upper edge of the top.

STEP 4. Using the pattern, cut the eight shaped pieces

that will form the two feet.

STEP 5. Using the pattern, cut the eight pieces thatwill

form the two cleats.

STEP 6. Using the pattern, cut the two legs to shape.

STEP 7. Cut themortises, one in each leg, that will accept

the lower rail.

STEP 8. Cut the tenons, one on each end of the rail, as

laid out in the drawing.

STEP 9. Cut the two mortises, one to each tenon, that

will accept the retainer pegs.

STEP 10. Cut the two pegs to their final shape.

STEP 11. Sand all the pieces smooth and break all of the

sharp edges.

STEP 12. Glue and clamp the feet and cleats (see photo)

and set them aside to cure overnight.

STEP 13. Use a 3/16" bit in your drill press to drill pilot

A spindle sander makes easy work of the final shaping of the

feet.

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Use your jigsaw to remove the rest of the waste material from

the mortise.

Use your drill press and a 3/4" bit to mill starter holes in the

legs for the mortise that will receive the rail.

STEP 21 . Using eight no. 10 X 3" screws, four to each cleat

and two to each side, fasten the legs to the top.

holes in the feet and cleats to receive the screws that

will fasten the understructure to the top.

STEP 14. Use a 1/2" Forstner bit to countersink the

pilot holes to a depth of 1/2".

FINISHING

The best way, I think, to finish this piece is to give it a

natural pine look.

First, do your finishing sanding, then some distress-

ing—heavier around the feet and the edges of the table-

top. Next, apply an appropriate stain. I like either-

Bleached Mahogany by Blond-it or Puritan Pine or

Golden Pecan by Minwax. To apply the stain, simply

wipe it on and wipe it off; there's no need to let it stand.

When the stain is dry, you can apply a little antiquing

glaze. Don't overdo this; just a very light smear is

enough. Finally, you can protect the piece by applying

either a couple of coats of satin polyurethane or a couple

of coats of Antique Oil made by Minwax.

STEP 15. Glue and set the legs in place inside the cavities

in the feel and cleats.

STEP 16. Drill 3/8" dowel holes through the cleats and

feet as laid out in thedrawing.

STEP 17 . Glue and set the dowels in place to strengthen

the joints between thecleats, feet and legs (see photo).

STEP 18. Set the rail in place in the mortises between the

two legs (see photo). Do not use glue.

STEP 19. Secure the rail in place using the two tapered

pegs.

STEP 20 . Set the top upside down on the bench and set

the understructure in place on the underside of the top,

making sure the assembly is equidistant from the ends

and sides.

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