chinese-table.pdf

Project 17604EZ:

Chinese Tea Table

If you have a chance to visit the Portland (Oregon) Art Museum, be sure to take in

the permanent display of 15th Century Mandarin wood furniture. You will appre-

ciate the skill of these woodworkers of centuries past, and also the beautiful sim-

plicity of the lines. No overly-ornate reproductions these, they present a clean

freshness that can only be approached in modern times by Scandinavian design.

They are not, however, devoid of decorative touches sensitively applied. Ma-

hogany solid stock was used for all parts, although maple or cherry would also be

good choices.

Chinese Tea Table Materials List

Part

Description

Size

No. Req’d

Leg

2-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 15-3/4"

Apron

3/4" x 1-1/4" x 16"

Rail Trim

1/2" x 3/4" x 15"

Top Frame

3/4" x 2-1/2" x 20"

Web Support

1/2" x 3/4" x 5-1/4"

Web Frame

1/2" x 3/4" x 7-1/2"

Stretcher

3/4" x 1-1/2" x 17-1/2"

Glass Top

1/4" x 15-3/8" x 15-3/8"

Chinese Tea Table Complete Schematic

Chinese Tea Table Step-by-Step Instruc-

tions

1. Start with the four legs (Part A), made from the 3 x 3 stock.

2. Select 3" x 3" stock from which to make the leg pieces (A).

3. Cut the four leg pieces to length.

4. Use a disk sander to immediately joint the ends of the legs, as they will be

more difficult to smooth later.

5. Use a router or drill press in conjunction with a dovetail bit to cut the dove-

tail grooves. NOTE: It is important to do this before the band sawing,

because afterwards the legs will not have easily available flat surfaces

to rest the work upon .

6. Cut 1/2" deep grooves centered 1-3/8" from the common corner on two

adjoining sides of each leg, extending the cut from the end of the leg down

exactly 1", measured at the center of the bit.

7. Mark one side of a leg that has a dovetail in it.

8. NOTE carefully the relation of the pattern to the dovetail groove: The long

flat side at the top should be placed towards the adjoining side with the

dovetail cut, leaving the short flat side that must be cut out on a blank side.

9. Use a circle gauge with a 2-1/2" diameter cutout to draw the curves.

10. Use the bandsaw and, leaving a small margin for sanding later, cut the

drawn pattern.

11. Draw a reversed pattern on the remaining dovetailed face. NOTE: This

second pattern will need to be drawn on a curved cut surface but, by using

the curvature endpoints, this can be done surprisingly easily.

12. Use the bandsaw again to cut out the reversed pattern.

13. Sand the legs thoroughly, using a drum sander to sand the inside curves.

14. Lay out and mark the location of mortises for the stretcher (G).

15. Use a sharp 1/4" chisel to cut each mortise.

16. Repeat the process for all the legs.

17. Cut four 16" lengths of 1" x 2" stock to make the aprons (Part B).

18. Rip them to a 1-1/4" width.

19. Cut 1/2" into the ends, at a width that produces a tight joint with the table

legs, to form the dovetails on the ends. NOTE: The aprons do not yet fit

flush with the top of the legs, making the 1/2" extension of the dovetails

critical. Whether or not they fit on the top frame depends upon the aprons

being the correct length.

20. Fit the stretchers (G) individually by partially assembling (without glue) the

table, placing the aprons with their dovetails into the grooves in the legs.

NOTE: The stretchers are fitted one at a time as they are mated to the

cutout surfaces of the legs, for which the leg cutout and sanding process

provides only imprecise depth control .

21. Make sure the raw cut edge of the rails is on top and will remain higher than

the leg tops by 1/4" when correctly placed.

22. Number the legs and sides so that you can recreate this same parts relation-

ship later.

23. Square the table carefully.

24. Measure the distance on each side from leg to leg at the mortise point to get

the correct length for the stretchers.

25. Form the tenons.

26. Mark the stretchers according to the pattern.

27. Band saw the stretchers to shape.

28. Use a drum sander, being sure to turn with the grain and not into it, to final

smooth the stretchers.

29. Final sand all finished pieces.

30. Test assemble the parts by first assembling the stretchers (G) into each of

the legs (H).

31. Continue the test by adding the aprons (B), which will be 1/4" above the top

of the legs.

32. Test-place a band clamp around the outsides of the legs at a height between

the aprons and stretchers. NOTE: Once the clamp is tightened the assembly

will take on a rigidity that will allow squaring the legs.

33. Finish testing when you feel all is satisfactory.

34. Glue each joint generously as it is being assembled.

35. Finish the assembly quickly, but with care.

36. Clamp the assembly.

37. Make sure everything is square.

38. Select a pieces of 1" x 3" stock from which to construct the top frame (D),

which holds the glass as well as providing structural rigidity.

39. Cut four lengths, each just over 20".

40. Examine each pieces for the face with the best appearance.

41. Mark the opposite faces.

42. Use a dado blade to cut, in each marked face 3/4" from one edge (and there-

fore 1" from the other edge), a groove 3/4" wide and 1/4" deep.

43. Turn the pieces over and mark the top edge farthest from the groove (over

the 1" surface left after grooving).

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