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TRAILER LIGHTING CONVERTER INSTALLATION
AUDI A3 (8P SPORTBACK), US MODEL, 2006+
The Audi A3 is part of a new generation in automotive electronics, which brings both a new ability to customize it easily as well as new
issues to take into account when tapping into or modifying the electrical system.
With modern technology, everything in the A3 is handled through one of several onboard computer systems. Every switch and device
(including light bulbs) is part of the Controller Area Network (CAN) which runs throughout the car. This means that many features can
be modified by altering the settings of the CAN
system computer. Changing these settings can be
accomplished with a commercially-available soft-
ware program and interface cable, and is some-
thing frequently done by Audi enthusiasts.
These instructions will guide you through installing
a trailer lighting interface on the Audi A3's variable-
voltage lighting system in a problem-free manner.
No computer settings will need to be changed, and
following these instructions ensures that if any of
the settings are changed at a later date, the trailer
interface will be unaffected.
Here's a comparison of "the old way" vs. how the
A3’s lighting system behaves:
The old way: There were separate bulbs (or sepa-
rate filaments within a single bulb) for 'tail' and
'brake' lights. The difference in brightness be-
tween 'tail' and 'brake' was due to the wattage of
the bulbs; they both received about 12 volts; and
they were hard-wired to perform only whichever
function they were intended for.
How the A3 works: In addition to dedicated turn signals and backup (reverse) lights, the Audi A3 has three bulbs on each side that
can act as tail and/or brake and/or 'rear fog' lights. These bulbs are all of the same type, and only have one filament each. The com-
puter applies reduced voltage to one or more bulbs on each side, making them glow at 24% of their maximum brightness to act as tail
lights. Which bulbs are activated, and the percentage of brightness, are dependent on the settings in the car's computer. When you
step on the brake pedal, the computer increases the tail light voltage to make the bulbs glow at 100% of their maximum brightness to
act as brake lights. Again, which of the bulbs are affected is dependent on the computer settings. The behaviour can be changed by
altering the computer settings, no re-wiring needed. A3's sold in other countries have the taillights configured differently to meet local
regulations as necessary.
Unfortunately, this variable-voltage system does not work properly for US trailer wiring - trailer taillights expect to receive about 12
volts, not 3.5 volts - and the fact that the 'brake' and 'tail' lights on the car can be re-arranged in software means that those wires
cannot be relied upon to always behave in the same way. There is a simple solution to this: Use things on the car that will always
behave as desired. This means using the center, high-mount brake light on the car for ‘brake’, and using the license-plate lights for
‘tail’. Both of these circuits only have 'off' and 'on' states (not variable-voltage), and both only have one purpose and cannot be re-
programmed. The converter specified puts no load on the lighting circuits, they are only used for sensing the voltage present.
Enjoy towing safely with your Audi A3!
STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS
ALL MATERIALS AND TOOLS LISTED
COMPLETELY INVISIBLE WHEN INSTALLED
Audi A3 (8P Sportback) US Trailer Lighting Converter Installation
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WIRING CONVERTER
The converter used for the A3 is the
Hopkins Manufacturing (Hoppy) 46365 .
This model is specified because:
The packaging includes:
The converter box itself has the trailer
harness ribbon & 4-flat connector at-
tached to one side, and 6 hookup wires
on the other side:
A length of red wire for +12V power
Some small zip-ties
1.
It isolates the load of the trailer light-
ing from the vehicle lighting circuits.
The connections to the wiring of the
vehicle lights are for sensing voltage
only. A separate, dedicated power
source connection provides power
for the trailer lights.
LARGER RED: +12V
A package of dielectric grease.
GREEN: Sense wire for Right Turn
Signal
4 tap-splices (1 will be used for the
power line; the other 3 will not be used
- they are too large for the rest of the
vehicle wiring connections)
SMALLER RED: Sense wire for Brake
Light
2.
It protects the vehicle from short-
circuits in the trailer lighting.
A screw (will not be used)
YELLOW: Sense wire for Left Turn
Signal
An in-line fuse (will not be used)
3.
It will not interfere with the vehicle’s
‘bulb failure’ diagnostics
BROWN: Sense wire for Tail Lamp
WHITE: Ground
4.
It has been tested and found to work
properly when installed as described
in these instructions.
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
All of the tools and materials listed below
can be obtained at hardware or home-
improvement stores.
A DC voltmeter is highly recommeded for
verifying that the correct voltage is being
provided to the trailer lighting connector.
The use of a wire crimping tool for secur-
ing butt-splices is highly recommended.
Using other tools to crimp a splice may
result in poor connections or damage to
the wire, splice or insulation.
QUANTITY
TOOLS & MATERIALS NEEDED
THESE ITEMS ARE IN ADDITION TO THE MATERIALS SUPPLIED IN THE
HOPKINS 46365 CONVERTER PACKAGING
1 Roll
18 gauge primary wire (green)
4
18-22 gauge tap splices (no larger, since the vehicle wiring is very
small gauge)
1
18-22 gauge butt splices
1 Tube
Goop™ brand clear silicone adhesive/sealant
1 Roll
Electrical tape
1 Package
Standard-size (e.g. 7”) zip-ties
1 Package
Mini zip-ties
1
Torx T-25 driver
1
Pliers
1
10mm socket & driver (deep socket recommended)
1
Wire crimp/cut tool
1
Razor blade or sharp knife
1
12V test light, and/or voltmeter (recommended)
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A
C
B
PREPARING THE CARGO AREA
Open the rear hatch
The crosspanel (black plastic trim) along
the edge of the hatch opening must be
removed. Figures ‘A’ and ‘B’ above indi-
cate the locations to grasp::
Figure ‘C’ above shows the cargo area
with the crosspanel removed. The
painted metal that is now visible is a hol-
low channel. As part of this installation,
2 wires will be run across from the left to
the right side (for right turn signal sense,
and +12V) through this channel.
Remove the cargo area cover (shelf)
Remove the cargo net (if present) & any
rubber cargo liner (if present)
Grasp it above the cargo net hooks as
shown in ‘B’ above, and pull straight
upward. Four clips will pop out of their
spots loudly as it comes up.
Fold down both rear seatbacks
Remove the carpeted floor panel which
covers the spare
Pull evenly on both left and right sides
at once, not at an angle.
Note how the gasket originally overlaps
the crosspanel, and the crosspanel pulls
out from under it. When the crosspanel
is reinstalled later, the gasket will need to
be returned to its original position over-
lapping, not pinched by, the crosspanel.
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A
C
B
D
LEFT SIDE: OPENING THE INTERIOR SIDE PANELS
clips are loosened, the short wiring
harness going to the cargo area light
will be visible.
READ THIS ENTIRE STEP BEFORE
PROCEEDING:
Use a T-25 driver to remove the torx
screw from the left side panel as
shown in Figure ‘A’. (Also remove the
corresponding torx screw from the
right side panel at this time.) Label
these, and set them aside.
IMPORTANT: See Figure ‘D’ above.
Carefully press on the clips to pop the
cargo area light outward (from behind),
then feed it through the opening so
that the wiring is no longer limiting the
movement of the side panel. (This is
easier than trying to unplug the electri-
cal connector from the light while the
light is still in place.)
Grasp the lower rigid part of the left
side panel as shown, and pull outward
(towards the right side of the car) as
shown in Figure ‘B’. This will pop out
the clips holding it in, and begin to peel
it from behind the hatch gasket.
The side panels will not be completely
removed, just opened enough to reach
the installation areas.
IMPORTANT: See Figure ‘C’ above.
As you loosen and pull out the side
panel, there are some clips along the
top where it meets the upholstery. Be
careful loosening these. Once those
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