Lowe's Woodpost Winter 2006.pdf

wood post

An Exclusive Lowe’s

Woodworkers Publication

Winter 2006

steamer

chest

4 Bath Pantry 10 Tool Guide 12 Wish List 14 Brush Basics

the

store your

decorations in this

From Our Shop

Q&A

I t’s that time of year, when we’re feeling that there’s no place like being home for

the holidays—and appreciating what it means to have family members near at the

end of the year. In this issue, we’ve included new projects to bring style and

function to your home, as well as timesaving ideas to help you get ready.

Hosey Hutson, who creates our projects, put his experience in woodworking and

design to good use for this issue by making plans that are simple to build, yet offer

amazing finished pieces. You’ll hear more about Hosey and the other people who

craft our projects in the next issue.

Speaking of our projects, the unique bath pantry in this issue provides a great

storage solution while adding style and personality to that space. Our steamer chest

makes for another clever storage idea with its old-world charm. It can house either

your Christmas decorations or extra blankets to keep you and your guests warm on

cold nights. And our tool guide will save you time when using power tools such as

your circular saw and router.

Of course, this is also gift-giving season, so we’ve given you ideas for tools to put

on your list to help round out your workshop. Whether you’re buying your first power

tool or are looking to trade up, you will appreciate our Shop Smart section, a great

guide for satisfying your woodworking needs and wants.

We’d love to hear about any projects you create from this and past issues of The

Wood Post. Please send your comments and suggestions when you visit us online

at Lowes.com/Woodworkers . There you also can register to receive monthly

e-newsletters for more projects, tips, and great ideas for woodworking applications.

Also, look for new features coming in 2007. We will be bringing you exciting new

photography and ideas, plus we’ll be providing a place online for you to access all of

our projects from the past few years.

With the Experts at

table of contents

The Pros Know

I’m just getting started in woodworking. With

what power tools should I begin?

Bath Pantry

strong and waterproof,

and they fill gaps well.

They also will bond ma-

terials that are dissimilar

or nonporous, such as

metal and wood. How-

ever, epoxies do require

mixing, and they can be

difficult to clean from

surfaces. Two more key

drawbacks—higher cost

and noxious fumes—

often relegate epoxies

to spot gluing where

high strength is required. Another good choice for attaching

wood assemblies or mixed materials is polyurethane glue, such

as Sumo Glue, which requires no mixing. Under the right condi-

tions it provides a waterproof bond. Once cured, excess glue

can be easily scraped and sanded, and it will not interfere with a

finish. Like epoxy, however, polyurethane glue costs more than

yellow glue and emits harmful fumes until cured. Shelf life can be

as little as six months after opening, so it’s best to buy container

sizes that you can use relatively quickly.

Steamer Chest

A: Let this be fair warning that a bite from the woodworking bug

lasts a lifetime, and you will never exhaust the list of goodies you

want for your shop. Power tools can help you work quickly and

accurately. For handheld portables, start with a circular saw and a

cordless drill. Invest in quality for these, because you’ll use them

often. In a circular saw, look for ball-bearing construction, a 15-

amp motor, and a 7 1 ⁄ 4 -inch blade. A cordless drill will earn its keep

faster than any other power tool. Most 12-volt models provide a

good balance between power and lightweight utility for general

woodworking. For carpentry or heavy usage, you might want to

consider an 18-volt drill. Other tools you are likely to want soon

include a router (at least 1.5 horsepower, with 1 ⁄ 4 - and 1 ⁄ 2 -inch collets),

a jigsaw (for cutting curves), and a random-orbit finishing sander.

This package of power tools will let you put professional touches

on your projects.

Soon, you’ll also want bench-top or stationary tools. Start with

a 10-inch table saw, which is probably the most versatile machine

you can own. A compound miter saw—sliding or pivot-arm—makes

precise end cuts in lumber and moulding. Finally, a drill press will

provide accuracy and speed. Splurge on the table saw if you can,

because it will be the workhorse of your shop. And did we men-

tion clamps? You’ll want to buy lots and lots of clamps. See Shop

Smart on page 12 for more on tools. Have fun shopping!

Tool Guide

Shop Smart

Begin With the Wood

Workshop

Member Profile

Put It Together

Melissa Birdsong

Vice President, Trend, Design & Brand

Lowe’s Companies, Inc.

Let us hear from you!

We’d like to know what you think

of this newsletter. Please log on to

Lowes.com/WWsurvey to fill out

a quick survey, and have a chance

to win a $200 Lowe’s gift card.

Hurry, the survey ends December 1.

P. S . Tell us about your projects or how you became interested in

woodworking. Send your responses c/o Sandy Culver, P.O. Box

523, Birmingham, AL 35201. If we profile you in an upcoming

issue of The Wood Post, you’ll receive a free Hitachi

14.4-volt 3 ⁄ 8 -inch cordless drill/driver kit.

Are eyeglasses enough protection in the shop?

What type of glue is best to use for wood-

working projects? Can I use the same glue in

everything I build?

A: No. Your prescrip-

tion eyeglasses aren’t

designed or intended

to be used for eye pro-

tection. Modern safety

glasses feature lenses

made of polycarbonate, which is the same tough and flexible plas-

tic used to create laminated bullet-proof glass. Even the impact-

or scratch-resistant lenses on conventional eyeglasses are not

designed to protect against hard or sharp objects moving at high

speed. Such lenses can fail, or even worse, break into shards. A

bigger concern, however, is that conventional frames simply don’t

guard enough of your eyes. Safety glasses have wraparound

frames that shield the sides of the user’s eyes, rest on or close to

the cheekbones, and extend upward to the brow ridge above the

eyes. So be sure to stick with safety glasses; most are designed

to fit over your prescription eyewear.

FREE TO MEMBERS!

As a member of Lowe’s Woodworkers, you’re entitled to a free woodworking

plan with each issue of The Wood Post. Try our plan for this tool chest (shown

at left). It’s available online until March 1, 2007, at Lowes.com/FreePlan.

A: Most woodworking glues could be described as “general pur-

pose” adhesives, but that doesn’t mean they are ideal for every

project or application. Even the basic yellow woodworker’s glue,

which is made of aliphatic resin, is available in different varieties.

Titebond, for example, manufactures three types of yellow glue—

one is recommended for interior use, while the other two are formu-

lated to be weather resistant and waterproof. Such ready-to-use

glues dry in a reasonable amount of time, are relatively inexpen-

sive, and have a good shelf life. They’ll probably handle most of

your projects.

Other adhesives are designed to provide better performance,

but there are trade-offs. Epoxy (two-part) adhesives are incredibly

PHOTO: JOHN O’HAGAN/SPC

SAFETY IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY: Lowe’s Companies, Inc., and its subsidiaries (“Lowe’s”), and SPC Custom Publishing, the Publisher of this issue of

The Wood Post, have made every effort to be complete and accurate in the instructions and other content contained in this Publication. However, neither Lowe’s

nor the Publisher assumes any responsibility or liability for damages or losses suffered, sustained, or incurred in the course of your home improvement, woodworking,

or repair project or in the course of your use of the item you create or repair. Further, improper use of handtools or power tools can lead to serious and permanent

injury or even death. In some issues of The Wood Post, the guards and safety equipment have been removed in illustrations and photos only to provide a better

view of the operation of the tool. Do not attempt any procedure or project unless all guards and safety equipment are in place. Always follow manufacturer’s operating

instructions in the use of tools. Check and observe all standard safety precautions.

2 Winter 2006

THE WOOD POST 3

the pros know

feature project

Bath Pantry

Welcome guests this holiday season with a beautiful storage solution.

it’s the bathroom. There never seems to be enough space

to store and organize necessities such as linens, towels,

and toiletries. Our solution is a great-looking piece of furniture

that allows for a lot of storage in a small space while keeping

everything conveniently at hand.

This project offers terrific results while requiring intermediate-

level skills in tool use and construction.

Step 2: Prepare the end face frames.

a. Cut the (06) end stiles to length, and use the stile template from

Step 1a to cut arcs at the bottom of each.

b. Cut the (07) end rails and the (08) end mid rail , and attach them

to the (06) end stiles .

Step 3: Build the mid frame by cutting and attaching the (09) mid

stiles and (10) mid rails .

Step 4: Prepare the interior panels.

a. Cut the (11) interior panels per the Cut List.

b. Fit a router with a 3 ⁄ 4- -inch straight bit, and cut dadoes 1 ⁄ 2 inch deep.

The Tool Guide on page 10 works well for this step.

c. Drill 1 ⁄ 4 -inch holes 3 ⁄ 8 inch deep at 2 inches on center for the shelf

pins. The holes should be 1 1 ⁄ 4 inches from each edge.

Instructions:

General: Cut and label the parts as needed, using the Cut List as

a guide and adjusting for fit. Use glue and appropriate-length nails

for assembly unless otherwise specified. All frame construction

involves glue and pocket hole joinery unless otherwise specified.

Step 1: Build the front face frame.

a. Cut the (01) front stiles ; at the bottom of one, mark at 3 ⁄ 4 inch from

the outside edge and again 2 inches from the bottom. Use a flexible

steel ruler to bend an arc between the two marks. Cut out and use

the piece as a template to do the same for the remaining stiles.

b. Cut the (02) front rails , and attach to the (01) front stiles using

pocket holes.

c. Cut the (03) front mid stile to length, and attach it to the (02)

front rails .

d. Attach the (04) long rails to the left (01) front stile and the (03)

front mid stile . Attach the (05) short rails to the right (01) front

stile and the (03) front mid stile .

e. Fit a router with a 1 ⁄ 4 -inch cove bit, and rout a stopped cove

along the outside edge of both (01) front stiles , stopping at the

bottom of the top (02) front rail .

Step 5: Assemble the case per Figure 1.

a. Attach an (11) interior panel to the inside of each end face frame

with the top and front edges flush. Attach an (11) interior panel to

both sides of the mid frame with the top and front edges flush.

b. Attach the end face frame/interior panel assemblies to the

front face frame.

c. Attach the mid frame/interior panel assembly to the front face

frame so that the top of the assembly is flush and centered with

the top of the front face frame.

d. Cut the (12) A partitions and the (13) B partitions to slide into

the dadoes on the (11) interior panels .

e. Cut and attach the (14) case back to the (11) interior panels ,

the (12) A partitions , and the (13) B partitions .

good to know

Acrylic is used instead of

glass for the doors on this

project. A Lowe’s employee

can cut acrylic sheets to meet

your specifications.

Step 6: Assemble the top, shelves, and doors per Figure 2.

a. Cut the (15) top to fit.

b. Scribe and cut the (16) top trim front and the (17) top trim sides

from the half-round moulding. Attach using glue and brads. Refer

to the Workshop column on page 15 for tips on scribing.

TOOLS YOU’LL USE

Read more about these tools in

Shop Smart on pages 12–13.

c. Attach the top assembly to the case so that the back is flush

and centered from side to side.

d. Cut all the shelves 3 ⁄ 8 inch shorter than the opening and 1 ⁄ 4 inch

(including the noses) less than the distance from the (14) case

back to the inside of the front face frame. Cut and attach the (19)

long nose to the front edge of the (18) long shelf , and the (21) short

nose to the front edge of the (20) short shelf .

e. Insert shelf pins in the desired locations; insert the shelves.

Step 7: Assemble the doors.

a. Measure the door openings, and add 1 inch in both directions.

b. Cut the (22) top door stiles , (23) top door rails , (24) bottom

door stiles , and (25) bottom door rails to length. Attach the rails

to the stiles using pocket hole joinery. Be careful not to screw

into the interior 1 ⁄ 2 inch of the rails.

c. Fit a router with a 1 ⁄ 4 -inch roundover bit, and round over the outer

edges of the doors.

router

drill

miter saw

power sander

4 Winter 2006

THE WOOD POST 5

I f one room in most homes is notorious for lacking storage,

d. Change to a 3 ⁄ 8 -inch rabbeting bit, and rout a rabbet around the inside back edges of

the door assemblies. Use a chisel to square the corners of the rabbets.

e. Cut the (26) top window and (27) bottom window , subtracting 1 ⁄ 8 inch in both directions

so that the windows will fit inside the rabbets. Note: A Lowe’s employee can cut acrylic

sheets to your specifications at no extra charge. Secure using clear window and door

caulk and the (28) stop . Attach the stop using brads but not glue.

f. Drill holes for the hinges per the manufacturer’s instructions, but don’t install them yet.

Figure 1

(13) B partition

(14) case back

end face frame/

interior panel

assembly

mid frame and

(11) interior panels

(12) A partition

(11) interior panel

Step 8: Apply a finish.

a. Fill all nail holes. Sand, and apply a paint primer. Sand again, and then apply a finish.

We used Signature Colors by Valspar, Laura Ashley Home, Gray Earth #116 for the exte-

rior and Winter Oak #114 for the interior, both in a satin finish.

b. Install the hinges, and add knobs and felt bumpers to the doors.

c. Install nail-on furniture glides.

end face frame

Project #Win061

(13) B partition

TOOL LIST

• table saw (or circular saw with a

straightedge guide)

• miter saw (or handsaw with miter box)

• jigsaw (or band saw)

• router with 3 ⁄ 8 -inch rabbeting bit, 1 ⁄ 4 -inch

roundover bit, 3 ⁄ 4 -inch straight bit, and

1 ⁄ 4 -inch cove bit

• drill/driver with 1 3 ⁄ 8 -inch Forstner bit

• K3MS Kreg Jig K3 Master System

• pneumatic nail gun (or hammer)

• power sander and various grits of

sandpaper

• flexible steel ruler

• caulking gun

• chisel

• clamps

• tape measure

• pencil

(13) B partition

CUT LIST

(12) A partition

(13) B partition

Part Name

Material

Size (in inches) Quantity

(12) A partition

Front Face Frame

(01) front stiles

(13) B partition

(12) A partition

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 65 1 ⁄ 4

(02) front rails

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 2 3 ⁄ 4 x 26 1 ⁄ 2

(12) A partition

(03) front mid stiles

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 57 3 ⁄ 4

(04) long rails

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 16

(05) short rails

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 8 1 ⁄ 4

End Face Frame

(06) end stiles

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 65 1 ⁄ 4

Finished Dimensions:

Height: 66 inches

Depth: 13 7 ⁄ 8 inches

Width: 32 1 ⁄ 4 inches

(07) end rails

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 2 3 ⁄ 4 x 8 1 ⁄ 2

(08) end mid rails

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 8 1 ⁄ 2

Mid Frame

(09) mid stiles

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 63 1 ⁄ 4

(10) mid rails

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 8 1 ⁄ 4

Panels

(11) interior panels

LOWE’S LIST

Lumber*

• 5 (8-foot-long) 1 x 6s, poplar

• 1 (48- x 96-inch) sheet of 1 ⁄ 4 -inch birch

plywood

• 2 (48- x 96-inch) sheets of 3 ⁄ 4 -inch birch

plywood

• 1 (8-foot-long) piece of 3 ⁄ 8 - x 11 ⁄ 16 -inch

half-round moulding

good to know

More detailed illustrations are

at Lowes.com/Woodworkers.

You’ll need them to build the

front face frame, end face

frames, mid face frame,

interior panels, and

door assemblies.

Figure 2

3 ⁄ 4 -inch plywood

3 ⁄ 4 x 11 3 ⁄ 4 x 63 1 ⁄ 4

(17) top trim side

Case

(12) A partitions

3 ⁄ 4 -inch plywood

3 ⁄ 4 x 9 3 ⁄ 4 x 11 3 ⁄ 4

(15) top

(13) B partitions

3 ⁄ 4 -inch plywood

3 ⁄ 4 x 11 3 ⁄ 4 x 25 7 ⁄ 8

(16) top trim front

(14) case back

1 ⁄ 4 -inch plywood

1 ⁄ 4 x 28 1 ⁄ 2 x 63 1 ⁄ 4

(15) top

3 ⁄ 4 -inch plywood

3 ⁄ 4 x 13 1 ⁄ 2 x 31 1 ⁄ 2

(18) long shelf

(17) top trim side

(16) top trim front

half-round moulding

3 ⁄ 8 x 11 ⁄ 16 x 32 1 ⁄ 4

(19) long nose

(17) top trim sides

half-round moulding

3 ⁄ 8 x 11 ⁄ 16 x 13 7 ⁄ 8

Hardware & Supplies

• 2 ( 1 ⁄ 8 - x 18- x 24-inch) clear acrylic sheets

• 1 box 4d finishing nails

• 1 box (#18 x 3 ⁄ 4 -inch) wire brads

• clear window and door caulk

• wood glue

• 4 ( 1 ⁄ 2 -inch) overlay frame-mounted

European hinges

• 2 sleek black nickel decorative knobs

• 1 package shelf pins (20 count)

• 1 package ( 3 ⁄ 4 -inch) nail-on furniture

glides

• 1 package felt bumpers

• stainable wood filler

• 2 quarts paint

*Availability varies by market.

(18) long shelves

3 ⁄ 4 -inch plywood

3 ⁄ 4 x 10 3 ⁄ 4 x 15 7 ⁄ 8

(23) top door rail

(26) top window

(19) long noses

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 1 1 ⁄ 2 x 15 7 ⁄ 8

(22) top door stiles

(20) short shelves

3 ⁄ 4 -inch plywood

3 ⁄ 4 x 8 1 ⁄ 8 x 10 3 ⁄ 4

(23) top door rail

(21) short noses

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 1 1 ⁄ 2 x 8 1 ⁄ 8

Doors

(22) top door stiles

(28) stop

(20) short shelf

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 27 1 ⁄ 2

(25) bottom

door rail

(21) short nose

(23) top door rails

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 12 1 ⁄ 2

(27) bottom

window

(24) bottom door stiles 1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 30 1 ⁄ 4

(25) bottom door rails 1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 12 1 ⁄ 2

(24) bottom

door stiles

(26) top window

acrylic sheet

1 ⁄ 8 x 13 1 ⁄ 8 x 23 5 ⁄ 8

(27) bottom window

acrylic sheet

1 ⁄ 8 x 13 1 ⁄ 8 x 26 3 ⁄ 8

(25) bottom

door rail

(28) stop

1 x 6

1 ⁄ 4 x 1 ⁄ 4 x (to fit)

6 Winter 2006

THE WOOD POST 7

feature project

Step 4: Complete assembly.

a. Prepare the (18) lid support block per

the lid support block detail, and then attach

it to the center (02) rib using pocket holes

and screws.

b. Fill all nail holes and sand all surfaces

smooth. Then prime and paint both the lid

and chest.

c. Attach the lid to the chest by surface-

mounting two 2 1 ⁄ 2 -inch hinges.

d. Install the lid supports per the manufac-

turer’s instructions.

e. Center and attach a chest handle to each

(15) end panel so that it is positioned 1 inch

below the top. Center and attach the pull

on the lid front.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Steamer Chest

4 15/16”

r=20 11/16”

(05) skin

7 11/16”

(06) top strap

23 1/2”

1 1/4”

lid end layout

6 15/16”

(04) strut

(02) rib

(18) lid support block

Highlight your skills by crafting this timeless treasure.

S teamer chests originally were used

4 15/16”

(03) stiener

the (01) lid ends and clamp the rib assem-

blies together. Sand the concave surfaces

to match.

r=19 15/16”

r=20 11/16”

6 7/16”

in the late 1800s by passengers

traveling on steamships. Everything

they needed for their voyage was placed in

the chest because it was the only luggage

allowed in their rooms. Other trunks were

stored in the cargo hold. Today you don’t

have to go on a voyage to appreciate the

storage capacity and classic lines of our

steamer chest. Its curved top makes a

great accent piece for any decor.

3/4”

27º

(08) nose strap

(01) lid end

4 3/16”

(04) strut

6 7/16”

3/8”

1 1/4”

(07) lid nose

6 15/16”

22”

(05) skin (06) top strap

Step 2: Build the lid.

a. Cut the (04) struts , and place them be-

tween the (01) lid ends so that the edges

are flush as shown in Figure 2. Attach with

glue and nails. Check this assembly for

square by measuring the diagonals of the

lid end/strut assembly. If necessary, use

scrap wood as temporary bracing to square

up the assembly.

b. Attach the rib assemblies to the (04)

struts with glue and nails, spacing them as

shown in Figure 2.

c. Cut the (05) skin to size. Bevel one of

the 25 9 ⁄ 16 -inch-long sides at 27 degrees

(note the grain direction shown in Figure 2).

You will bevel the other side in Step 2f. To

bend the plywood over the (02) ribs and the

(01) lid ends , cut a series of 1 ⁄ 8 -inch-deep

kerfs on the underside of the skin at 1 inch

on center, parallel to the beveled edge.

d. Cut the (07) lid noses to size with one

long edge beveled at 27 degrees.

e. Attach a (07) lid nose to a (04) strut so

that the short side of the bevel aligns with

the top of the (04) strut .

f. Test the fit of the (05) skin by butting its

beveled edge against the beveled edge of

the (07) lid nose and bending it over the

(02) ribs . Mark where it hits the (04) strut ,

and cut a 27-degree bevel along that side.

Trim excess if needed, and attach the (05)

skin with glue and brads. Then attach the

remaining (07) lid nose .

g. Cut the (06) top straps to length with a

27-degree bevel on each end. Scribe and

23 1/2”

(02) rib and (03) stiener assembly

(04) strut

rib and stiffener layout

2 3/4"

(07) lid nose

(08) nose strap

Project #Win062

7/8"

(18) lid support block

3 1/2"

lid support block detail

TOOL LIST

• table saw (or circular saw with a

straightedge guide)

• miter saw (or miter box and handsaw)

• jigsaw (or band saw)

• power sander and various grits of

sandpaper

• pneumatic nail gun (or hammer)

• drill/driver with drill bit set

• K3Ms Kreg Jig K3 Master System

• clamps

• tape measure

• pencil

Figure 3

(12) end stringer

lid support

(14) panel

(09) nailer

(11) end nailer

Instructions:

General: Cut and label parts as needed,

using the Cut List as a guide and adjusting

for fit. Assemble using glue and appropriate-

length nails unless otherwise specified.

(09) nailer

(10) stringer

cut the (08) nose straps to length with a

27-degree bevel on one end.

h. Attach the (06) top straps with glue and

brads, flush with the edges of the skin and

spaced 7 11 ⁄ 16 inches from leading edge to

leading edge as shown in Figure 2.

i. Align the beveled point of the (08) nose

straps with the (06) top straps where the

(07) lid nose meets the (05) skin . Test-fit

the (08) nose straps , adjusting the length if

necessary, with a 27-degree bevel, before

attaching them to the (07) lid noses .

(11) end nailer

Step 1: Prepare the (01) lid ends and the

(02) ribs , which support the chest’s curved

top. Each of the (02) ribs consists of a layer

of poplar sandwiched between two plywood

(03) stiffeners .

a. On 1 ⁄ 4 -inch plywood, lay out the pattern

for one (01) lid end and one (02) rib as

shown in Figure 1.

b. Cut out these templates, and then use

them to trace two (01) lid ends and three

(02) ribs onto a 1 x 6; cut out the shapes.

Discard the lid end template.

c. Use the rib template to lay out five (03)

stiffeners on 1 ⁄ 4 -inch plywood. Cut them out.

d. Attach the (03) stiffeners to both sides

of each (02) rib using glue and brads. Allow

to dry.

e. To ensure the curves of the (01) lid ends

and the rib assemblies match, clamp all five

pieces together, aligning the convex sur-

faces. Sand these as one unit. Then remove

(17) strap

(15) end panel

(14) panel

(16) oor panel

(10) stringer

(13) corner

(12) end stringer

LOWE’S LIST

Lumber*

• 1 (8-foot-long) 1 x 4, poplar

• 2 (8-foot-long) 1 x 6s, poplar

• 1 (48- x 48-inch) sheet of 1 ⁄ 4 -inch

birch plywood

• 1 (48- x 96-inch) sheet of 1 ⁄ 4 -inch

birch plywood

Hardware & Supplies

• 1 box 1 1 ⁄ 4 -inch Kreg pocket hole

screws, fine thread

• 1 box 4d finishing nails

• 1 box (#18 x 3 ⁄ 4 -inch) wire brads

• 2 pairs (1 each center) lid supports

• 2 (2 1 ⁄ 2 -inch) broad loose pin hinges

• 2 (3 1 ⁄ 2 -inch) zinc chest handles

• 1 (3-inch) sterling nickel pull

• stainable wood filler

• wood glue

*Availability varies by market.

CUT LIST

Part Name

Step 3: Build the chest.

a. Attach the (10) stringers to the (12) end

stringers with glue and nails per Figure 3.

b. Attach the (16) floor panel to the stringer

assembly with glue and brads.

c. Attach the (11) end nailers to the (15)

end panels with glue and brads so that they

are flush with the tops of the (15) end panels

and 3 ⁄ 4 inch in from each side.

d. Attach the end assemblies to the floor

assembly with glue and brads.

e. Attach the (09) nailers to the (14) panels

with glue and brads, flush with the top of the

(14) panels and 1 ⁄ 4 inch in from each end.

f. Attach the (13) corners to the (14) panels

with glue and brads, positioning them 1 ⁄ 4 inch

in from each end.

g. Attach the panel assemblies to the end

panel/floor assembly.

h. Test-fit the (17) straps for the front and

back of the chest assembly, and attach us-

ing glue and brads. Nail only at the (09)

nailers and (10) stringers .

Material

Size (in inches) Quantity

Lid

(01) lid ends

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 4 15 ⁄ 16 x 23 1 ⁄ 2

(02) ribs

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 4 1 ⁄ 16 x 23 1 ⁄ 2

(03) stiffeners

48- x 96-inch plywood

1 ⁄ 4 x 4 1 ⁄ 16 x 23 1 ⁄ 2

(04) struts

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 1 1 ⁄ 4 x 30 1 ⁄ 2

(05) skin

48- x 96-inch plywood

1 ⁄ 4 x 25 9 ⁄ 16 x 32

(06) top straps

48- x 96-inch plywood

1 ⁄ 4 x 1 1 ⁄ 4 x 25 3 ⁄ 4

(07) lid noses

48- x 96-inch plywood

1 ⁄ 4 x 1 3 ⁄ 8 x 32

(08) nose straps

48- x 96-inch plywood

1 ⁄ 4 x 1 1 ⁄ 4 x 1 1 ⁄ 2

Chest

(09) nailers

1 x 4

3 ⁄ 4 x 3 1 ⁄ 2 x 31 1 ⁄ 2

(10) stringers

1 x 4

3 ⁄ 4 x 1 1 ⁄ 2 x 31 1 ⁄ 2

(11) end nailers

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 3 1 ⁄ 2 x 22

TOOLS YOU’LL USE Read more about these tools in Shop Smart on pages 12–13.

(12) end stringers

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 1 1 ⁄ 2 x 22

(13) corners

1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 3 ⁄ 4 x 9 1 ⁄ 8

(14) panels

48- x 96-inch plywood

1 ⁄ 4 x 14 3 ⁄ 8 x 32

Finished Dimensions:

Height: 19 3 ⁄ 4 inches

Depth: 24 inches

Width: 32 inches

(15) end panels

48- x 96-inch plywood

14 x 14 3 ⁄ 8 x 23 1 ⁄ 2

(16) floor panel

48- x 48-inch plywood

1 ⁄ 4 x 23 1 ⁄ 2 x 31 1 ⁄ 2

(17) straps

48- x 48-inch plywood

1 ⁄ 4 x 1 1 ⁄ 4 x 14 3 ⁄ 4

(18) lid support block 1 x 6

3 ⁄ 4 x 2 3 ⁄ 4 x 3 1 ⁄ 2

band saw

tape measure

table saw

jigsaw

clamp

8 Winter 2006

THE WOOD POST 9

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