Calon_Scrolls_Oct_07_Clothing.pdf

(3738 KB) Pobierz
October 2007 Clothing final.pub
Calon Scrolls
Clothing and Clothing Accessories: Oct 2007. Vol. 2 Issue 1
11th Century Finnish Dress
By Lady Isobel MacDonald
Inmysecondyearofnaalbinding,Ihave
continuedtochallengemyselfwithnew
stitches and new applications for this
craftthatIenjoysomuch.Ihavecontin
uedtosearchforotherwaysthatnaal
bindingorprinciplesofnaalbindingcan
beusedinconjunctionwithdress,since
seamstressingismyotherskillandlove.
Afterlastyear’scompetition,Iaskedmy
sponsor, HL Marcella the Unknown,
whatshesuggestedforthisyearandher
responsewas"DoVikingagain,onlydo
itbetter".Withthatencouragement,and
myowndrive,Istartedlookingforabet
terwaytobringinallofthecomponents
thatIwantedtodemonstrate.Idecided
onaFinnishdressduetotheirpredomi
nantuseofnaalbindingindecorationand
functionalityandtheiruseof"spiralor
namentation",morecommonlyknownin
theSCAasVikingWireKnitting.
Theearliestknownextantexamples
ofnaalbindingarefromc.6500BC
andwerefoundintheJudeandesert.
The very nature of the art, worked
withshortlengthsofwool,lendsitselftothe
beliefthatitpredatedthespindle.Itisbe
lievedthatwoolwasspunbetweenthepalms
andusedfornaalbinding.Itisthepredeces
sorofmoderndayknittingandcrochetand
examples have been found throughout the
world, but the art itself is most commonly
associatedwithVikingCulture.
There are over 30 naalbinding stitches that
havebeenidentified.Throughoutthispro
ject, I choose to represent three different
stitches that are most commonly found in
Finlandandsurroundingareas.Mysocksare
doneintheMammanStitch,IusedBlanket
StitchasdecorationonmyApronandIused
the Suomeksi Stitch as decoration on my
Peplos Overdress. The "spiral ornamenta
tion" used on the Apron is also a form of
naalbinding.
Inthespringof1969,anexcavatorconstruct
ingasewerintheareaofEura,aparish
insouthwesternFinlandnearthecities
ofRaumaandPori,liftedasilverorna
mentedswortinitsbucket.
Continued on page 5
Greetings from our KMOAS, Master Mellitus of Rouncivale
Queen’sPrizewillbeheldintheShireofAmlesmoreJanuary26,20008.Thisyeareachsponsorwill
beabletosponsoruptofiveentrants.Eachentrantcanenteroneentry.EntrieswillbejudgedagainsttheNov
iceCriteria.Ifyouwouldliketoenterbutcan’tfindasponsor,pleasecontactme.Iwillbehelpingentrants
findsponsorsasneeded.Ifyouwouldliketosponsorsomeoneandneedhelpfindingtheluckyartist(s),contact
measwell.Sponsorsneedtohaveoneprizeforeachentranttheysponsor.Formorecompleteinformationsee
AswinterloomseverclosertoCalontir,Iremindeveryonethatlongcoldnightsareagreattimetowork
onprojects!Thenyoucanbringthemtoeventsandshowoff!Betteryet,youcanteachaclassordemo!
HRM Caillin gave Ly Isobel
QueenÓs Choice at QueenÓs
Prize 2007 for this entry.
26319429.306.png 26319429.317.png 26319429.328.png 26319429.339.png 26319429.001.png 26319429.012.png 26319429.023.png 26319429.034.png 26319429.045.png 26319429.056.png 26319429.067.png 26319429.078.png 26319429.089.png 26319429.100.png 26319429.111.png 26319429.122.png 26319429.133.png 26319429.144.png 26319429.155.png 26319429.166.png 26319429.177.png 26319429.188.png 26319429.199.png 26319429.210.png 26319429.221.png 26319429.232.png 26319429.243.png 26319429.254.png 26319429.265.png 26319429.276.png 26319429.282.png 26319429.283.png 26319429.284.png 26319429.285.png 26319429.286.png 26319429.287.png 26319429.288.png 26319429.289.png 26319429.290.png 26319429.291.png 26319429.292.png 26319429.293.png 26319429.294.png 26319429.295.png 26319429.296.png 26319429.297.png 26319429.298.png 26319429.299.png 26319429.300.png 26319429.301.png 26319429.302.png 26319429.303.png 26319429.304.png 26319429.305.png 26319429.307.png 26319429.308.png 26319429.309.png 26319429.310.png 26319429.311.png 26319429.312.png 26319429.313.png 26319429.314.png 26319429.315.png 26319429.316.png 26319429.318.png 26319429.319.png 26319429.320.png 26319429.321.png 26319429.322.png 26319429.323.png 26319429.324.png 26319429.325.png 26319429.326.png 26319429.327.png 26319429.329.png 26319429.330.png 26319429.331.png 26319429.332.png 26319429.333.png 26319429.334.png 26319429.335.png 26319429.336.png 26319429.337.png 26319429.338.png 26319429.340.png 26319429.341.png 26319429.342.png 26319429.343.png 26319429.344.png 26319429.345.png 26319429.346.png 26319429.347.png 26319429.348.png 26319429.349.png 26319429.002.png 26319429.003.png 26319429.004.png 26319429.005.png 26319429.006.png 26319429.007.png 26319429.008.png 26319429.009.png 26319429.010.png 26319429.011.png 26319429.013.png 26319429.014.png 26319429.015.png 26319429.016.png 26319429.017.png 26319429.018.png 26319429.019.png 26319429.020.png 26319429.021.png 26319429.022.png 26319429.024.png 26319429.025.png 26319429.026.png 26319429.027.png 26319429.028.png 26319429.029.png 26319429.030.png 26319429.031.png 26319429.032.png 26319429.033.png 26319429.035.png 26319429.036.png 26319429.037.png 26319429.038.png 26319429.039.png 26319429.040.png 26319429.041.png 26319429.042.png 26319429.043.png 26319429.044.png 26319429.046.png 26319429.047.png 26319429.048.png 26319429.049.png 26319429.050.png 26319429.051.png 26319429.052.png 26319429.053.png 26319429.054.png 26319429.055.png 26319429.057.png 26319429.058.png 26319429.059.png 26319429.060.png 26319429.061.png 26319429.062.png 26319429.063.png 26319429.064.png 26319429.065.png 26319429.066.png 26319429.068.png 26319429.069.png 26319429.070.png 26319429.071.png 26319429.072.png 26319429.073.png 26319429.074.png 26319429.075.png 26319429.076.png 26319429.077.png 26319429.079.png 26319429.080.png 26319429.081.png 26319429.082.png 26319429.083.png 26319429.084.png 26319429.085.png 26319429.086.png 26319429.087.png 26319429.088.png 26319429.090.png 26319429.091.png 26319429.092.png 26319429.093.png 26319429.094.png 26319429.095.png 26319429.096.png 26319429.097.png 26319429.098.png 26319429.099.png 26319429.101.png 26319429.102.png 26319429.103.png 26319429.104.png 26319429.105.png 26319429.106.png 26319429.107.png 26319429.108.png 26319429.109.png 26319429.110.png 26319429.112.png 26319429.113.png 26319429.114.png 26319429.115.png 26319429.116.png 26319429.117.png 26319429.118.png 26319429.119.png 26319429.120.png 26319429.121.png 26319429.123.png 26319429.124.png 26319429.125.png 26319429.126.png 26319429.127.png 26319429.128.png 26319429.129.png 26319429.130.png 26319429.131.png 26319429.132.png 26319429.134.png 26319429.135.png 26319429.136.png 26319429.137.png 26319429.138.png 26319429.139.png 26319429.140.png 26319429.141.png 26319429.142.png 26319429.143.png 26319429.145.png 26319429.146.png 26319429.147.png 26319429.148.png 26319429.149.png 26319429.150.png 26319429.151.png 26319429.152.png 26319429.153.png
Page 2
c c c CONTENTS c c c
Upcoming Issues of the Calon Scrolls
January Ó08 Miscellaneous Arts April Ô08 Miscellaneous Arts II July Ó08 Metalworking
26319429.154.png
Page 3
Letter from the Editor
Mistress Cassandra di Capelletti
elcome to the new Calon Scrolls
Whew!Thisissuealmostdidnotgetdone...darn
thesemoderneditingtools…
GivemeaquillandasheetofpaperandI’mgood,
butcomputers,well,Iearnmylivingonacomputer
butthatdoesn’tmeanwehavetogetalong…
Asofthiswriting,itisNovemberandtheCalon
Scrollsisamonthbehinditsissuedate.Isincerely
apologizetoeveryonewhohasbeenlookingforward
toreadingtheOctoberIssue,buthopefullythewords
“betterlatethannever”applyinthiscase.
Myharddriveapparentlythoughtitwastoocluttered
upwithfilesandartworkanddecidedtodoalittle
fallcleaning.Soasittidiedup,itthoughttoitself,
“Self,whatdoessheneedalltheseuselessfilesfor?
They’vebeenhangingoutforoveramonthnow.If
shehasn’tusedthembynow,shedoesn'tneed
them!”
Andsoitdeletedeverythingover30daysold.Got
ridof,threwaway,putthekiboshon,alltheartwork
andfilesandarticleseveryonehadsentme.Threw
awaytheissueI’dalreadystartedon.Yep.Gone.
Vanishedintotheetherwillallthesocksfromthe
dryer.
Ithinkit’skarmafortossingoutmyhusband’s“old
uselessthings”thathereallywantedtokeep…
LuckilyI’mmarriedtoaguywhosehobbyiscom
puterstuff.Silentlylaughingatmeforthekarma
payback,herecoveredallmyfilesanddatasoIcould
atleastgetmyworkdone.
Well,theEvilGenius,alsoknownastheHardDrive,
didn’tlikethat.Soittidieditselfupagain.
Somyhusbandfixeditagain.
NowtheEvilGeniusgotreallymad.Itthrewout
stuffcompletely.SonowmyHusbandGeniusgot
reallymad.
Itwasabattleofwills.Fierceandterribletosee.
Thankfully,itwasthehumanoverlordwhowon.He
trickedtheEvilGeniusintothinkingitwasmoved
intoanicenewplacewithtidyfilesandeverything
wasnewandcleanandshiny.SonowtheEvilGen
iusisgone;I’msurejustwaitingforthedaymyclut
tercorruptsit’snewshinyhomesoitcanrearitsugly
mopheadagain…
HowdidtheHusbandGeniusdoit?Don’taskme.
LikeIsaid,ifit’snotaquillandpaper,I’mclueless.
ThisisthefirstyearanniversaryfortheCalon
Scrolls!Thankstoeveryonefortheirsupportand
theirsubmissions.Iapologizetoanyonewhoseef
fortsmaynothavebeenrecoveredandismissing.
PLEASEemailmeandwe’llgetyourarticleinthe
January’08issue.
Youmaynoticeafewchangesinthisissue.Hope
fullythey’regoodpositivechanges.
Youmayalsonoticetypos,etc.,(well,morethan
usual)inthisissuetooduetoitshurriedstate,andI
apologizeforthoseaswell.Theerrorsaremine.
IlookforwardtothenextyearofeditingtheCalon
Scrolls!
Upcoming Issues of the Calon Scrolls
January Ó08 Miscellaneous Arts April Ô08 Miscellaneous Arts II
July Ó08 Metal and Wood working
elcome
WWWW elcome
26319429.156.png 26319429.157.png
Page 4
G r e e t i n g s f r o m o u r A & S C h a m p i o n
L a d y A n n i k a d i e R a u s c h e r i n : P u n t o i n A r i a l a c e , E f f i g y C o r s e t , P a i n t i n g
GreetingsCalontir,
IamwritingtocallforentriestoKingdomArtsandSci
encesChampionship.
Itstimetogetstartedonthoseprojects.Whynotgoto
thelibraryorbookstoretodayandcheckoutbooksfor
yourdocumentationforoneofyourprojects?
EnteringtheChampionshipisfunandexciting,andalso
nervewrackingandscary.Butifyoustartnowwithyour
researchyou’llbeabletoworkallwinter,spring,and
Summerforthecompetition.
Istartedonmyresearchtheweekafterlastyear’sArts
andSciencesChampionshipwasover.
Sothisisjustashortlettertothepopulacesaying"get
started".
Letsmakethisnextyearwonderful.
YIS,
Annika.
c c c
c c c
c c c
The TailorÔs Practicum
Barony of Forgotten Sea, December 1, 2007
TheBaronywillbehostingthiseventbasedaroundthe
clothingdepictedin“TheWhitePainting”,alsoknown
as“HuntingwithFalconsintheCourtofPhillipthe
Good”.
ThesiteistheWyandotteCountyLakePark,andthe
eventopensat9:00a.m.andclosesat10:00p.m.Site
feeis$7.00.
TherewillbemorningclassesontheClothinginthe
Painting,givenbyMasterJackBanyard,andonthe
FabricsoftheTimePeriodgivenbyMistressLuciana
dellaRidolfi.
Startingaroundnoonwillbethefirstblockofhandson
classeswhichare:Underwear,taughtbyMistress
DianaMacLean;ShoesandAccessoriestaughtbyHL
BrianMacThomas;andCotehardies,taughtbyMis
tressMagda.
Thesecondblockofhandsonclasseswillbegin
around2:20andinclude:GeometricConstruction,
taughtbyLadyYpolitedeMontbeliard;Houppelands,
taughtbyMasterJackBanyard;andHosen,taughtby
MasterAngusofBlackmoor.
Afteradinnerbreak(anInnwillbeonsite)therewill
beanopensewingworkshopuntilthesitecloses.
Bringyourownsupplies,includingthread,needles,
fabric,scissors,tapemeasure,etc.
Fortheshoeclasspleasebringyourownleatherand
leatherworkingsuppliesifyouhaveany.
26319429.158.png 26319429.159.png 26319429.160.png 26319429.161.png 26319429.162.png 26319429.163.png 26319429.164.png 26319429.165.png 26319429.167.png 26319429.168.png 26319429.169.png 26319429.170.png 26319429.171.png 26319429.172.png 26319429.173.png 26319429.174.png 26319429.175.png 26319429.176.png 26319429.178.png 26319429.179.png 26319429.180.png 26319429.181.png 26319429.182.png 26319429.183.png 26319429.184.png 26319429.185.png 26319429.186.png 26319429.187.png 26319429.189.png 26319429.190.png 26319429.191.png 26319429.192.png 26319429.193.png 26319429.194.png 26319429.195.png 26319429.196.png 26319429.197.png 26319429.198.png 26319429.200.png 26319429.201.png 26319429.202.png 26319429.203.png 26319429.204.png 26319429.205.png 26319429.206.png 26319429.207.png 26319429.208.png 26319429.209.png 26319429.211.png 26319429.212.png 26319429.213.png 26319429.214.png 26319429.215.png 26319429.216.png 26319429.217.png 26319429.218.png 26319429.219.png 26319429.220.png 26319429.222.png 26319429.223.png 26319429.224.png 26319429.225.png 26319429.226.png 26319429.227.png 26319429.228.png 26319429.229.png 26319429.230.png 26319429.231.png 26319429.233.png 26319429.234.png 26319429.235.png 26319429.236.png 26319429.237.png 26319429.238.png 26319429.239.png 26319429.240.png 26319429.241.png 26319429.242.png 26319429.244.png 26319429.245.png 26319429.246.png 26319429.247.png 26319429.248.png 26319429.249.png 26319429.250.png 26319429.251.png 26319429.252.png 26319429.253.png 26319429.255.png 26319429.256.png 26319429.257.png 26319429.258.png 26319429.259.png 26319429.260.png 26319429.261.png 26319429.262.png 26319429.263.png 26319429.264.png 26319429.266.png 26319429.267.png 26319429.268.png 26319429.269.png 26319429.270.png 26319429.271.png 26319429.272.png 26319429.273.png 26319429.274.png 26319429.275.png 26319429.277.png 26319429.278.png 26319429.279.png
Page 5
Continuedfrompage1
1 1 t h C e n t u r y F i n n i s h D r e s s
Smock, Underdress, Peplos Overdress, Apron,
StockingsandShoes.IalsomadeSpiralBrace
lets,Brooches,aGlassBeadNecklacetocom
pletethisensemble.Allofthegarmentsarecut
inageometricperiodfashion,sensitivetoloom
widthandwerehandsewnusingappropriatepe
riodtools.
Ilearnedthattherewasapreponderanceofcer
taincolorsincertaingeographicalareas.Purple
andbluesweremostcommoninnortherncoun
tries. Woad and Indigo tin were known com
moditiesinFinlandduringthistimeperiod.Forthisrea
son,IchoseaindigoblueformyPeplosOverdressand
Wooltrims.ThecolorofmyUnderdressandstockings
couldhavebeeneasilyachievedbynaturalcoloredfiber
orbydyingwithavarietyofbarksorotherplantmatter
thatwouldhavecreatedthepalebeigecolorthatIchose.
Stockings
MypalebeigewoolstockingsaremadefromtheMam
mennaalbindingstitchinacompletelyperiodmanner.I
usedawoodennaalbindingneedleasmyonlytoolduring
construction. The wool was gently broken and then
feltedtomytrailingthreadasanewpieceofwoolwas
needed.OneoftheerrorsthatImadeinlastyearspro
jectwastouseseparatespiralheelsonthestockingsIdid
atthattime.ThisyearIdiditright,usingshortrowheels
aswouldhavebeenappropriateforthetimeperiodofmy
dress.Thiswasmyfirstexperiencewithshortrowheels
andoverall,Iwaspleasedwiththeoutcome.Becauseof
theshortrowheels,however,Ididmakeaseriousmis
takeonthesestockings.Imadethestockings"building"
thematthesametime,soIwouldhaveapairthatwere
closetothesamesizeandshape,andasIdidso,Iin
creasedstitchesmoreononesidethantheothertofivea
nice"foot"shapetothem.Whenitcametimetodothe
shortrowheels,duetomyinexperience,Ifailedtomake
themamirrorimageandso,theylookliketheywere
madeforthesamefoot.Idon'tbelievethiswillshow
after I felt them and it does noteffect thecomfort or
wearability of the end product. As I write this, these
stockingsareonlyalittleabovetheankle,bypersonal
preference,Iwillincreasetheheight,butIamnotsure
howhightheywillbebythetimeofthejudging.Iwill
alsofeltthesestockingsforwarmthandwaterresistance
aftertheyaretheheightIwantthem.Ididattempttouse
theSuomeksistitchformystockings,Ibroughtthe
resultant toe. I believe that this particular stitch
wasmoreoftenusedfordecoration.Itdidn'tmake
averynicestocking.
Smock
TheSmockorUnderdressistheinnermostgarment
thataVikingwomanwouldhaveworn.Thisgar
mentwouldhaveprotectedtheoutergarmentsfrom
beingdamagedbybodyoilsandsweat,andwould
haveprotectedthewearerfromthecoarserweaves
oftheoutergarments.Myresearchshowsthatin
thetenthcentury,theseunderdresseswerepleated
inatubearoundthebody,however,Ididn'tfindalotof
documentation for what might have been worn in the
11thcentury,soIoptedforpersonalpreferenceandused
ageometriccut.Thisgarmentwouldprobablyhavebeen
madefromfinelinen,however,fundsdidnotallowthat
forthisprojectandIusedasoftcottonformysmock.
BelievingthatthesmockwasalsotheVikingwomen’s
sleepinggarment,Ichoseacutthatwasfullerwithmore
room for movement than some of the patterns I re
searched.Ichoseapatternthatwassensitivetoperiod
loomwidth,wouldbecutgeometrically,andofferedthe
mostcomfortandfreedomofmovementwhilestillpro
vidingthebaseIwantedformyoutergarments.This
patternwascompletelydraftedanddrawndirectlyonthe
fabricwithchalk,aswouldhavebeendoneinperiod.
Therewaslessthanasquarefootofwastefromthisgeo
metricalcut.
Isewedthisgarmentbyhandusingaflatfelledseamina
periodappropriatefashion.
ThereisnotmuchthatIwouldhavedonedifferentlywith
thisgarment.Someofmyhandsewnseamsarealittle
rough.Hadfinancesallowed,Iwouldhaveusedalinen
fabric.
Overdress
The Overdress I chose to construct is made from the
samegeometricpatternastheSmock.Thisgeometric
patternwasalsodrafteddirectlyonthefabricwithchalk
andsewnbyhand.ThepatternIusedwasalsosensitive
toloomwidthandfabricusageandIwashappytoonly
haveaboutasquarefootofwastedfabricwhenallthe
pieces were cut. I chose a keyhole neckline anddid
26319429.280.png 26319429.281.png

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika:

Zgłoś jeśli naruszono regulamin