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Stirling Engine
Manual and Quick Start Guide
IMPORTANT NOTICE !
These low te mperature differential Stirling engines require only a s mall difference in
the bottom and top plates to operate. DO NOT place the m on a high temperature heat
source (e.g. oil/wood burning stove, candle, Arga stove). If you do, it will melt a number
of parts on the Stirling engine. It can be placed on top of a recently boiled cup of
water/tea/coffee but nothing hotter.
Starting the Stirling engine
These Stirling engines do not automatically start by themselves. Put
your engine on a heat source (e.g. cup of tea). Wait approximately 1
minute and the spin the flywheel gently in the direction of the arrow
(see figure A). If you have enough temperature difference between
the top and bottom plates your engine will continue to run. The
war mer the heat s o urce the s horter the le ngth o f ti me yo u will nee d to
wait before spinning the flywheel.
Typical heat sources include a warm hand, top of CRT monitor, a
table la mp, cup of hot water, di gita l TV po wer transfo rme r. Anythi ng
that can give you a te mperature difference between the bottom and
top plates s ho uld work.
Figure A
Running the Stirling engine from the heat of your hand
Firstly, you need to be in a reasonably cool environment, and your hand needs to be warm.
Hold your hand out flat, palm upwards, and place the engine on it. After a minute or two you
should feel the bottom plate has warmed up. Give the engine a spin as described above and
away it should go. Try not to cup your hand or let your fingers touch the top plate; both of
these will retard performance.
Running your engine in reverse
Place the engine on a bowl of ice. Gently spin the flywheels opposite of that that shown in
figure A
and it will run backwards. This is because the ambient room te mperature is now the
heat source, effectively being applied on the top plate.
Stirlin g En gin e Manu al
Page 1 of 4
Version 2.1
(updated 10/4/2006)
How the Stirling engine works
The Stirling engine you have purchased is a “Displacer Type” engine. This means they have a
large displacer piston and a smaller power piston. They operate on a 4 stroke cycle (shown
below). The diagra ms below assume the heat source is at the botto m.
Figure 1
Co ntractio n
Figure 2
Heating
Figure 3
Expansio n
Figure 4
Cooling
Contraction Phase
–
The Cooling phase has just finished. The overall temperature of the air
inside the Stirling engine has dropped and hence the internal air pressure is dropping. The
power piston (small piston) is being pulled down by this pressure drop. At the same time the
displacer piston (large piston) is at the half way point, the air underneath it is beginning to heat
up.
Hea tin g P has e –
The displacer piston (large piston) is now close to the top plate. Most of the
air withi n the Stirli ng e ngi ne is no w being heate d rea dy for the e xpa nsion phase.
Expansion Phase –
The overall temperature of the air inside the Stirling engine has
increased and so has the air pressure. The air is expanding and the power piston is being
pus he d up. At the same ti me the dis plac er pisto n (la rge piston) is bei ng to fall, which s tarts to
cool the air above it.
Cooling Phase –
The displacer piston (large piston) is now at its lowest point. The air in the
Stirling engine is cooling ready for the contraction phase. The cycle will repeat until the
difference in te mperature between the top and bottom plates are too small.
Stirlin g En gin e Manu al
Page 2 of 4
Version 2.1
(updated 10/4/2006)
My engine is running slow, what can I do?
By far the main cause of slow running is foreign matter in the power cylinder. This is fairly
easy to fix, and ca n be do ne i n mi nutes usi ng a s ma ll c ross-poi nt ("phi li ps ") screwdriver.
1. Undo the screw (shown in green in
picture 1
) a nd re mo ve the pisto n a nd c onnecti ng rod.
The whole item should co me free from the engine, as in
picture 2
(take care not to drop
the screw and white ring at the top of the rod).
2. Gently wipe clean the black graphite piston shown in
picture 3
. Ordinary kitchen paper
towel or an old t-shirt works well for cleaning the piston. Be aware that because the piston
is graphite it will leave a grey mark on whatever is used to clean it, so don't wipe it on your
favourite white shirt!
3. Clean the inside of the borosilicate glass cylinder shown in
picture 4
. A cotton bud works
well for this operation.
4. Reassemble. The screw at the top (shown in green in
picture 1
) should only be 'nipped'
tight, with just enough torque to hold and no more.
for referenc e, the parts that make up the po wer pisto n/conro d asse mbly are:
1 x M2 cross-poi nt screw, 1 x white c ollar, 1 x wire rod, 1 x brass joi nt a nd 1 x gra phi te pisto n
For additional reference, the hook in the wire connecting rod points away from the main pillar
(see botto m pic ture ).
Pict ure 1
Picture 2
Pict ure 3
Picture 4
Pict ure 5
Stirlin g En gin e Manu al
Page 3 of 4
Version 2.1
(updated 10/4/2006)
My engine still runs slow, what else can I do?
If you have cleaned the piston and cylinder and your engine still runs slow then the bearings
may need cleaning.
1. Undo the screw (shown in green in picture 1) and remove the piston and connecting
rod. The whole item should co me free from the engine, as in picture 2 (take care not to
drop the screw and white ring at the top of the rod).
2. Undo the crank screw (shown in green in picture 3) and slide the crank off the axle.
You should be able to lie the whole crank/rod down , leaving the wire connecting rod
attached at the bottom. The engine should like picture 4.
3. Gently slide the flywheel out of the bearing cartridge, the top of the engine should look
li ke picture 5.
4. Undo the top screw, highlighted green in picture 5, and slide the white cartridge out of
the pillar (picture 6).
5. Thoroughly rinse the whole cartridge in methylated spirits (sometimes know as
denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol) or similar. Dry with compressed air if available. If
you do not have compressed air, shake the excess methylated spirits off the cartridge
and allow to dry naturally.
6. Reassemble. The crank screw should locate on the flat section of the axle (shown in
green in picture 4) should only be 'nipped' tight
Picture 1
Pictur e 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Pictur e 5
Picture 6
Stirlin g En gin e Manu al
Page 4 of 4
Version 2.1
(updated 10/4/2006)
Plik z chomika:
artuditu2010
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