VERY IMPORTANT
We garantee a successful I carrying out of this scale model, if you deign to follow the photographs and instructions corresponding to each step of the assembly.
HULL
1
Remove the false keel № 1 and frames № 2 to №10 from the sheets marked with letter A. Glue these frames into the notches of the false keel, following the order shown on the photograph: glue frame № 2 nearest to the bow (right side of the photograph), then № 30 and continue glueing until you get to №10 at stern (glue frame № 10 to the edge of the false keel).
The upper part of all the frames should be on level with the upper part of the false keel (except frame № 3 and № 10) and perpendicular in relation to it (except frame № 10).
Remove decks № 13 and № 16 from the sheet marked with letter B. Plank decks № 13 and № 16 with 0,6x5 mm. veneers of Mukali (№ 14 and № 17 respectively).
Varnish deck № 13 and place it according to photograph № 1.
Adjust deck № 16 (which you will have planked previously) into the corresponding notches (see photograph № 1).
At bow, on both sides of the false keel, glue reinforcements № 12 (three on each side).
At the height of the three notches of the false keel glue reinforcements № 11 (3 on each side).
2
Plank the two outstanding parts of frame № 8 with veneers № 15 (0,6x5 mm) as well as their inner edges. Follow the same procedure for frame № 3, using veneers №18 (0,6x5 mm).
Plank deck № 19 with veneer № 20 (0,6x5 mm). Sandpaper, cut off the excess and varnish before placing it. Follow the same procedure for deck № 22 (using planking № 23 (0,6x5 mm)), deck № 26 (using planking № 27) and bulkhead № 24 (using planking № 25 (0,6x5 mm)).
Before you start placing deck № 26 and bulkhead № 24 you should file the upper part of frame № 10, giving it the same inclination as the false keel № 1 at stern (see macrophotograph № 2).
Glue quarter deck beam № 21 according to the detail photograph.
3
Plank the upper and inner part of frame № 3 with planking № 30 (0,6x5 mm). Follow the same procedure for bulkhead № 28, using venner № 29 (0,6x5 mm).
Plank forecastle deck № 31 with planking № 32. Cut off the excess, sandpaper and varnish. Now you can adjust and glue it to frame № 3.
Fashion the hatch frames (№ 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39) with 1,5x4 mm strips of african walnut.
Finally glue poopdeck front finishing № 40 made of one 1,5x3 mm strip of african walnut. (We have just completed a tridimensional puzzle ...)
4
On the upper part of frame № 3, which you will have planked previously, place in the following order frames № 41, 42, 43, 44, 45 and 46, using 1,5x3 mm strips of african walnut. Varnish the assembly.
Note: Adjust door № 101 just for to cut frames № 45 and 46, but the definitive placing of the door will be done later.
With a half-round file sharpen with extreme care, at port and at starboard (left and right side), false keel №1, reinforcements №12 and frames № 2 and 3. Bevel carefully the edges of the frames. You will realize that the more curvature the hull takes the more wood you roughplane. With a planking strake № 49 check the correct alignement lenghtwise and breadthwise the hull. This way you will know up to where you have to bevel. At once take the opportunity to file the excess of the decks.
5
Remove bulwarks № 47 from sheet B and plank the inner sides with planking № 48 (0,6x5 mm). Cut off the excess, sandpaper and varnish.
Glue and nail bulwarks № 47 in such a way that the outstanding part "A" of bulwark № 47 coincides with the upper part of frame № 3. See detail.
Glue from bow to stern, in such a way that the cannon frames "B" rest 1 mm above the decks.
PLANKING AND FINISHING OF THE HULL
6-7
As the development of a hull is uneven, we suggest to plank as follows: Glue and nail one strake № 49 along the whole hull, just below bulwark № 47. Follow the same procedure on the other side of the hull. From now on planking is done in an alternative pattern, this means, for each strake fixed on one side you should fix another on the opposite.
Next glue and nail another strake below the first strip, in such a way that the edges of these strakes remain glued together. Use white wood glue and brass pin-nails № 0.
Once placed the first three strakes you will continue planking in the same way, starting at the lower side of the false keel.
All the strakes you place should not be forced to adopt their position. At bow and at stern diminish the wide of the strakes. Check the correct fitting before glueing.
Do not worry about the non-planked parts of the hull. Just fill up the empty spaces left, as the ship carpenters do, with pieces of triangular or sharped strips.
Cut off the excess of the poopdeck № 26.
The tridimensional puzzle starts to take form. According to photograph № 6 plank and adjust lower transom support № 50 and transom № 52.
8
Before starting the second planking with veneers of 0,6x5 mm, sandpaper the whole hull in order to get a surface as smooth and homogeneous as possible. Use contact glue for this double planking. Start planking the stern, as shown on photograph № 8 and transom № 53 (plank in vertical direction). Next plank the hull proper, following the same order as for the first planking.
At bow join the bulwarks with a piece of strip № 62 (bowsprit stanchion), having included provisionally bow grating № 186. This way you will obtain the exact shape for joining the bulwarks.
9
Finally plank the bulwarks and make the openings for the cannon loopholes.
Remove in the following order parts № 56, 57, 58, 59, 60 and 61 from sheet "C" and glue them. Glue finishings № 63 and 64 and sandpaper the assembly.
10
With a strip of 1,5x3 mm fashion parts № 73, 74 and 76. Fashion parts № 65 to № 71 with one strip of 1,5x4 mm, as well as parts № 72 and 75 with one strip of 1,5x5 mm.
Adjust and glue all these parts, following the numerical order shown on the photograph (for example: start with part № 65, continue with finishings № 66 and so on).
With a 2x2 mm strip of Sapelia fashion rubbing-strakes № 77, 78 and 79. Glue them as shown on photograph №10.
11
From the same 2x2 mm strip of Sapelia cut bow rubbing-strakes № 82 and stern fenders № 83. Adjust and glue. With 1,5x3 mm strips of african walnut fashion, adjust and glue (keeping the excess) rubbing-strakes № 80 and 81 at port and at starboard.
12
With a 1,5x3 mm strip of african walnut fashion, adjust and glue frames № 84, columns № 89, as well as the prolongation of rubbing-strake № 81, numbered at stern № 87.
Remove partner № 88 from sheet "D" and glue into the corresponding hole.
From a 2x2 mm strip of Sapelia, cut parts № 83,85 and 86 and glue them into their corresponding place, according to photograph № 12. Remove brackets № 90 from the sheet and glue onto columns № 89 and onto lower transom support № 50.
According to drawing "A" make two notches for later positioning the loopholes.
13
From a 1,5x3 mm strip of african walnut cut the necessary pieces for fashioning fenders № 91 and two pieces for fenders № 92 (see part list).
Present these parts and mark the point in the rubbing-strake where you Will have to cut for placing these parts.
Remove parts № 93 and 94 from sheet "D" and glue them into their corresponding place.
From a 2x2 mm strip of Sapelia cut front finishing № 95 and glue.
With a 1,5x3 mm strip of african walnut fashion parts № 96, 97 and 98 and glue.
From a 4x4 mm strip, of african walnut cut parts № 99 and glue.
From a 1,5x4 mm strip of african walnut cut gunwales № 100 and glue them according to the photograph.
Sandpaper and varnish all these parts.
Place door № 101 into the space left (as explained in photograph № 4).
Finally make the necessary notches for positioning the loop-holes, following the same procedure as explained in photograph № 12. Follow the measurements of scheme "A" of photograph № 13.
14
Remove part № 102 from sheet "B". Plank one of its sides with 0,6x5 mm veneer of Mukali and the other side with 0,6x5 mm veneer of Sapelia. Cut off the excess.
With a 1,5x3 mm strip of african walnut (№ 105) cover the outer edge of the gallery №102. Sandpaper and varnish the assembly. Present the gallery in its corresponding place at stern (in the rectangular holes) and, if necessary, adjust. Before placing it definitively, glue columns № 106 in a regular distribution along the gallery. Next adjust and glue the hand-rails: First glue curvature № 107 (which you will have removed previously from sheet "D") and continue with 1,5x4 mm strips of african walnut for hand-rails № 108 and 109.
15
Remove parts № 110 and 114 from sheets "C" and "D". Adjust and glue a 1,5x3 mm strip of african walnut onto the rudder. Once drie, sharpen the rear part of the rudder until its final thickness is 3 mm, according to the scheme "A". Place hinges № 112, axles № 113 and rudder tiller № 114. Fashion the drain pump and keep it for its later positioning.
16
Glue the rudder assembly to the lower part of the stern transom and to the stern post.
Glue the decorative parts №118 to № 125.
Fix the gallery (which you have assembled in photograph №14), as well as brackets № 126. Adjust the brackets to the hull.
According to the mast plans fashion stern bowsprit № 127 and 128. Insert in the corresponding hole. Continue placing and glueing the rest of the decorative parts.
SUPERSTRUCTURE
17…23
The most hard and delicated work is done. All the superstructure parts shown on photographs 17 to 23 are very easy to build up.
You just have to assemble and glue them together following the numerical order of the photograph.
24…27
With these photographs we seek to:
1.- Find the location of each one of the parts we have assembled before, in order to adjust and fix them.
2.- Fashion channels (parts №188, 192 and 204): Remove channels from sheet "D" and place them together with dead-eyes № 190, chain-plates №191 and bowsprit lashing-line № 215.
RIGGING
If you observe the mast plans you will see that all the masts are conical. Give each mast the necessary conical shape according to the measurements of the mast plan. Start polishing at the lower part towards the upper part of the mast. Build the masts without the rigging (stropps, blocks, eyebolts, etc.) and varnish. Tackle with all the parts shown on the plans, including gaffs and yards, once they have been varnished. Fit and glue masts and fittings into the holes on deck. Now you can start to assemble the rigging (running and fixed rigging).
Due to the amount of cordage that makes up the rigging, we feel that an explanation refering to each one would only lead to confusion. For this reason, in addition to the general plan, we have included several simplified drawings, where you can observe step by step the whole rigging.
As for the sails, follow the pattern included in the kit. Cut out and backstich the sails. Sew the boltrope № 313 leaving a small eyelet in all vertices where you will later insert the ropes.
Finally, to give more realism to your model, you can soak the sails in black tea. Once drie, fix them without ironing.
We are confident that this project will have a successful outcome.
Enloy it and think about the next ship you will build!
Miet42