OFFICE_DESK.pdf

OFFICE DESK

This design here has plenty of storage space--seven

drawers in all--and plenty of surface area too, nearly

16 sq. ft. Its cool, clean lines suggest a seriousness of

purpose that's good for any work environment. This

design is also the starting point for the credenza and

wall-unit pieces that follow. All three are based on the

same easy-to-build module. On the desk, each

module has one file drawer and two utility drawers. On

the credenza, each has two file drawers. And on the

wall unit, you can choose drawers or doors. Here, we

go into great detail about building the modules and the

drawers. So be sure to review these instructions even

if you plan only to build one of the others.

This desk is loaded with space. Each

pedestal has one file and two utility

drawers. And, there's a pencil drawer in

between.

Desk pedestals

Begin construction by laying out your desk parts

on sheets of 3/4-in. birch plywood. Cut them to

rough size using a circular saw and a

straightedge guide. Then, use a table saw to rip

and crosscut the parts to the finished size. The

quickest and least expensive way to edge-band

the panels is to apply veneer edge tape. This

tape comes in strips that are 13/16 in. wide x 8 ft.

long, and it has hot-melt adhesive on its back

side. To bond the veneer to the edge, just clamp

the panel in a vise, then using a household iron --

set on High -- press the tape onto the edge

(Photo 1) . The heat activates the glue.

1--Finish the plywood edges with iron-on

veneer tape. Set the iron for high heat

and press down to activate the hot-melt

glue.

Once the veneer edging has cooled-which takes

only a minute or two -- use a sharp chisel to trim

the tape flush to the panel's surface (Photo 2) .

Next, lay out the location of the joining-plate slots

on the case bottom, back and top rails. Use the

plate joiner to cut the slots (Photo 3) .

2--Trim the edging tape flush to the panel

with a sharp chisel. Cut with the grain

direction, not against it, to prevent

splitting.

When it's necessary to cut the slots perpendicular

to the edge of a panel-at the back of the case

bottom, for example-clamp the panel to the table-

saw rip fence and use the saw table as a

registration surface (Photo 4) . Apply glue to slots

and plates, then assemble the bottom-, top- and

back-rail joints.

2--Trim the edging tape flush to the panel

with a sharp chisel. Cut with the grain

direction, not against it, to prevent

splitting.

3--After cutting all the case parts to size

and applying the edge tape, begin

assembly by cutting plate slots in the

back rails.

4--Cut the plate slots in the case bottom

by clamping the panel to your table-saw

fence and sliding the plate joiner across

the table.

Lay out and cut the plate slots for the joints between the case

bottom assembly and sides, and also between the top rails

and sides. Then, assemble the pedestal box by gluing together

the case sides, bottom assembly and top rails (Photo 5) .

Use clamps to pull the joints tight, then compare opposite

diagonal measurements to be sure that the assembly is square

(Photo 6) .

Readjust the clamps, if necessary, then let the glue set.

Because the desk pedestals are exposed on all sides, the

back of the cases must be finished. Fabricate these backs by

applying solid wood edging to the two long edges of the

plywood panels, as shown in the drawing. Then, lay out and

cut the joining-plate slots in the back panels and in the mating

edges of the case sides. These plates are not absolutely

necessary for structural integrity, but they do make positioning

of the back panels automatic during assembly. Glue and clamp

the parts in place. Then, cut and edge-band the top edge of

the baseboard blocking. These blocks are used to bring out

the surface of the baseboard beyond the front surface of the

drawer faces. Install the blocks with glue and 4d finishing nails.

Use clamps to temporarily hold the modesty panel in place

against one of the pedestals. Mark the locations of the joining-

plate slots, then do the same for the other pedestal. Cut the

plate slots for these joints using a straightedge guide (Photo

7) .

5--Begin assembly with one side on the

bench. Apply glue to plates, slots and

edges, then push the second side in

place.

6--Draw all joints tight with clamps, then

check the case for square by comparing

opposite diagonal measurements.

Then, counterbore screw pilot holes from inside the pedestals

to fasten the panel in place. These screws eliminate the need

for awkward clamping. Apply glue to slots and plates, then join

the modesty panel to the pedestal. Drive 2-in. screws into the

panel. Then do the same thing for the other pedestal (Photo

8) .

Cut the baseboard stock to size, then use a 30o chamfer bit in

a router table to shape the top edge of the molding. Miter the

ends and fasten them in place using glue and 4d finishing

nails. Then, cut and install the small panel molding around the

top of the baseboard, using 1-in. brads (Photo 9) .

Mark the position of the large panel molding on the desk sides

and front, as shown in the drawing. Again, attach the panel

molding to the desk with 1-in. brads.

7--Clamp a straightedge to the case side

to guide the joiner. Then, cut slots for the

plates used to attach the modesty panel.

8--Apply glue to the modesty panel,

plates and slots and push together. Bore

pilot holes and drive screws to tighten the

joint.

9--Install the baseboard around the desk,

then finish the profile by nailing panel

molding above the baseboard.

Desktop

Cut the plywood panel to size for the desktop.

Then, cut the edging to size, miter the ends and

glue and clamp the edging to the top (Photo 10) .

When the glue is dry, use a router with a 3/8-in.-

rad. rounding-over bit to shape the top edge of

the desk (Photo 11) .

These bits have a ball-bearing pilot that rides

against the edge of the work. So, when it comes

time to shape the underside of the top, the

bearing no longer has a proper surface to ride

against. Instead, use a router fence to guide the

router for the bottom cut. With the desktop upside

down, cut and install the build-up strips 1 1/4 in.

from the outside edges of the top. Use glue and

screws to fasten the strips. Next, cut and install

from the outside edges of the top. Use glue and

screws to fasten the strips. Next, cut and install

the cove molding against the build-up strips

(Photo 12) .

To provide proper fastening of the top to the

pedestals and to provide a place to hang the

pencil-drawer slides, install two cross strips as

shown in the drawing.

11--Glue and clamp the edge banding in

place and, when glue is dry, route the top

edge with a 3e8-in.-rad. rounding-over bit.

Drawers

12--After the support strips have been

installed on the bottom of the top, miter

and nail cove molding to edges of strips.

The drawers are constructed of 1/2-in.-thick Baltic

birch plywood. Begin by ripping and crosscutting

the material to size for drawer sides, fronts and

backs. Cut the dadoes at the front edge of the

drawer sides using dado blades in a table or

radial-arm saw. Then, cut the dadoes at the back

edge of the sides. Follow this by cutting a rabbet

at each end of the front and back panels, again

using the dado blades. These rabbets form a

tongue on the end of the drawer fronts and backs

that fits neatly into the dadoes in the sides. Cut

the same dado on the ends of the pencil-drawer

partition. Finish the joinery cuts by making a

groove in the sides and front to accept the drawer

bottom. The file drawers are designed to accept

aluminum rails that support hanging file folders.

These rails are cut from 1/8 x 3/4-in. aluminum

flat stock, readily available from hardware

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