Ellen trousers instructions.pdf

Sewing Instructions for Pants

Sizes 34,36,38, 40,42,44

Fabric needed

Length of Pants (Sides): about 105 cm (41 inches)

The upper edge of the pants sits about 3 cm (1 ¼ inches) from the waistline

Tweed, 140 cm (55 inches) wide

Sizes 34,36,38: 1.50 meters (59 inches)

Sizes 40, 42,44: 1.55 meters (61 inches)

Size 46: 1.95 meters (76 ¾ inches)

Lining, 140 cm (55 inches) wide, 0.50 meters (19 ¾ inches) for all sizes

0.30 meters (11 ¾ inches) Vlieseline G785, 90 cm (35 ½ inches) wide

4 Buttons

1 Zip, Size 34,36,38: 8 cm, Size 40,42,44: 10 cm (4 inches)

Sewing thread

Preparing Pattern Pieces

All instructions for cutting can be found in the cutting chart above. Cut pattern pieces along the lines

according to the size you wish to sew.

The stitching line for the zip in part 1 is only depicted for a size 34. For all other sizes, draw the stitching

line at the same distance of the front middle as in the size 34. Pay attention to the length of the slit.

Cutting Out

The cutting instructions below show how to place the pattern pieces on the fabric. When placing the pieces

on the fabric, make sure that the grain lines depicted on the pattern pieces run parallel to the grain of the

fabric.

1 Front Pant Piece

2 Back Pant Piece

3 Front Waistband

4 Back Waistband

a.) Left underlap for slit:

For sizes 34,36,38: 9 cm

For sizes 40,42,44: 11cm long, 5 cm wide, finished width: 2.5 cm

7 Placket 6x

16 Pocket 3x

b.) 4 Belt Loops, about 32 cm long total, 7.5 cm wide (including seam allowances)

Lining:

1 Front Pant Piece ending at lining line

16 Pocket

Interfacing

All pieces that are depicted as grey areas on the copy paper should be cut as interfacing with the same grain

directions as the fabric pieces. Iron interfacing onto the wrong side of the outer waistband pieces and the

outer flap pieces.

Transferring Pattern Markings

Place the pieces with interfacing onto each other, right sides facing. Pin pattern pieces again.

With a tracing wheel and paper, transfer pattern markings (sewing and seam lines) as well as all the marked

lines on the pattern pieces (except for the grain markings) onto the wrong side of the fabric (detailed

instructions can be found on the pattern).

Transfer the stitching line for the zip, the front middle, wrap, base and flap base lines, the vertical lines and

the pleating lines onto the right side of the fabric, stitching by hand with wide stitches along those lines.

Sewing

Right Side

Wrong Side

Interfacing

Lining

When pinning and stitching the seams, the right sides of the fabric are facing. Secure beginning and end of

the seam line with reverse stitches.

1.) Darts

Fold back Pant Pieces so that the dart lines meet, right sides facing. Pin dart lines onto each other. Stitch,

starting at the upper edge, secure seam beginning with reverse stitches. Tie thread at the tip of the dart. (1)

Iron the dart to the back middle.

2.) Placket

Iron the seam allowances at the plackets folded to the inside (2). Pin plackets with the left side meeting the

base markings onto the front pant pieces, stitch the folded edge neatly onto the seam allowances. (3) Sew

about 7mm from the stitching line with contrasting thread, by hand.

(2)

(3)

3.) Flaps

Pin flap pieces with interfacing to the flap pieces without interfacing, right sides facing. Stitch, leaving the

base edge open. Trim seam allowances, cut at the rounded edges, cut deep towards the stitching line at the

edges. (4) Turn flaps. Pin edges, iron and stitch neatly. Sow in buttonhole, but do not cut yet. Pin flaps in

between the vertical lines of the upper edge of the front pant pieces, flaps pointing up. Stitch (5) . Cut seam

allowances of the base seam to 5 mm width. Iron flaps down, stitch neatly along the seam base line. Pin the

third flap between the vertical lines on the seam allowance of the right back pant piece.

(4)

(5)

4.) Side Seams

Place front pant pieces right sides facing onto the back pant pieces, pin side seams. Stitch. (6) Secure seam

beginning and end. Fold apart and iron seam allowances, de-baste. Fold over the slit allowances and iron to

the inside.

(6)

5.) Inner Leg Seams

Fold the pant pieces lengthwise, right side of fabric inside. Pin inner pant legs. Stitch. (7) Fold apart and

iron seam allowances. Turn pant legs, right side outside.

(7)

6.) Loops

Fold fabric strips in half lengthwise, right side inside. Stitch 2.5 cm from the wrap line. To turn, cut the

thread not too short on one end. Thread the thread into a darning needle and tie tightly. Pull needle with the

eye facing forward through the fabric tunnel (see drawings 25 and 26). Iron strip, stitch neatly and cut into

4 loops of equal length.

Place one loop each above the darts in the back and the middle of the front flap, the fourth loop should be

pinned to the left front pant piece at the same distance from the front middle.

7.) Crease, Back Pant Piece

Place pant pieces onto the ironing boards so that the inner leg seam meets the side seam, and the front

crease lies evenly. Iron crease into the back pant piece.

8.) Middle Seam, Front

De-baste the seam allowances of the front borders, the front middle seam and continuously of the back

middle seam.

Turn one pant leg, wrong side outside. Push pant legs into each other, right sides of fabric and inner pant

leg seams meet. Pin the front middle seam from the slit marking until the inner pant seam. Stitch. Secure

seam beginning and end (8). Pull pant legs apart.

(8)

9.) Slit for Zip

Ladies’ pants close from right to left. Pin over the border at the right front pant edge to the inside at the

marked front middle. At the left slit edge, pin the border to the inside, 5 mm next to the front middle, to

prevent the zip from showing. Make sure to cut the seam allowance at the end of the slit (arrow) until you

are about 5 mm from the seam. Iron edges. (9)

(9)

Pin the left slit edge close to the teeth of the zip onto the zip band and stitch tightly with the one-sided

zipper foot. (10)

(10)

Pin slit middle on middle. (11)

(11)

Pin the border of the right pant piece to the second zip band, not taking in the pants. Stitch zipper to the

border. (12) Coming from the right pant side to the right closure line at the marked stitching line from

above, stitch until you reach the beginning of the rounded edge, stitching the border. (13)

(12) (13)

Fold the underlap (a) lengthwise, right side inside. Stitch bottom edges onto each other. (14) Trim seam

allowances. Turn underlap. Pin and iron edges. Hold together and de-baste the open long edges. Pin the

underlap from the inside to the seam allowance of the left slit edge, so that the de-basted line lies on the

zipper band and the wrap line lies 3 cm from the front middle. (15)

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