7994 opis.pdf

Pattern Pieces

1 Middle Front Piece

2 Side Front Piece

3 Middle Back Piece

4 Side Back Piece

5 Front Trimming

6 Back Trimming

7 Lapel Collar

8 Upper Sleeve

9 Lower Sleeve

10 Pocket

11 Lining Pocket

Copy Paper with DinA4 Print:

The pattern pieces are printed with a narrow border onto 36 pages. Wait until all pages are printed. Arrange

the pages as depicted in the page with instructions on how to put the pages together.

Cut the pages at the upper right edge along the narrow border. Start with the lower left page and glue the

pieces together at the border lines.

Choose the size of the patter according to the Burda measurement chart. The sizes for dresses, Blouses,

Jackets and Coats are determined by the bust measurement, the sizes for pants and skirts are determined by

the hip measurement.

Adjust, if necessary, if your measurements differ from the Burda measurement chart.

Cut the pattern pieces for your size.

Sizes 34 to 44

The buttonholes in part one are depicted for a size 32. For all other sizes, draw the top buttonhole at the

same distance from the neckline edge as for a size 32. The bottom buttonhole is at the same spot for all

sizes. Mark the other four buttonholes with equal space in between them.

Lengthening or Shortening the Pattern

Our cut is designed for a height of 168 cm. If you are taller or shorter, you can adjust the pattern at the lines

that say, “shorten or lengthen here”. That way, the fit remains the same.

How to shorten or lengthen your pattern

Cut the pattern lines at the marked lines.

(To avoid changing the shape of the pattern piece, it helps to draw a line perpendicular to the marked line ,

now you can adjust the pattern by moving the pieces along the perpendicular line)

To lengthen: Push the pieces apart as far as necessary.

To shorten : Push the pieces together as far as necessary.

Adjust the side edges. Redistribute the buttonholes.

Cutting out

Fabric Fold(-----) means : This is the middle of a pattern pieces, not an edge or a seam. The piece is cut

twice the size of the pattern; the fabric fold is the middle axis of the piece.

The pattern pieces with interrupted outlines are placed onto the fabric with the printed side facing down.

The cutting plans show how to arrange the pattern pieces on the fabric.

If fabric is not folded , pin the pattern pieces to the right side.

If fabric is folded , pin the pattern pieces with the right side of the fabric facing inside. Pin pattern pieces

on wrong side.

Place cutting plan over the selvage, finally, cut with fabric not folded.

Cut part 11 from the leftover lining.

Seam and Hem Allowances are included in the pattern:

4 cm (1 ½ Inches) seam allowance at the side and middle back pieces and sleeves

1.5 cm (1/2 inch) at all other edges and seams

Using Burda copy paper, transfer the lines and marking on the pieces onto the wrong side of the fabric.

Instructions are included in the package.

Jacket

Tip: When sowing with jeans fabric, use contrasting

thread.

Front Dividing Seams

1.) Place side front pieces right sides facing

onto the middle front pieces. Pin

Dividing seams (Seam number 1). Stitch.

Back Dividing seams are stitched the same

way (Seam number 2).Place back pieces right

sides facing, pin and stitch back middle

seam. De-baste all seam allowances and

finish.

Pockets

2.) Stitch the lining pocket right sides facing

onto the cut trimming, leaving about 5

Cm (2 inches) open for turning. Secure ends

of seam. Iron seam allowances into the

lining.

3.) Turn cut trimming outside. Stitch the lining

pocket and the narrow edges of the

trimming onto the pocket. Trim seam

allowances, cut diagonally at edges. Cut in

at rounded edges. Turn pocket. Pin edges.

Iron. Sew open seam by hand.

4.) Pin pockets, attaching them at the base lines,

onto the front pieces and stitch, allowing

0.5 cm (1/4 inch).

Shoulder Seams

5.) Place front pieces right sides facing onto the

back trimming, pin shoulder seams (Seam

Number 3), the dividing seams meet. Stitch.

6.) Place front trimming right sides facing onto

the back trimming, stitch shoulder seams

(Seam number 4). Trim seam allowances

and finish. De-baste inner trimming edge.

Lapel Collar/ Trimming

1.) Stitch the lapel collar with the lining right sides

facing onto the neck line (Seam Number 5). Stitch

the lapel collar without the lining the same way.

Trim seam allowances, cut in and finish.

2.) Pin trimmings with collar right sides facing onto the

front pieces and the collar. Pin edges onto another

(Seam Number 5). Stitch, the collar base seams are

meeting. Trim seam allowances, also at collar, and

cut diagonally at edges.

3.) Turn collar. Turn trimmings inside. Pin edges, iron.

Pin collar base seams onto another, stitch together

with reverse stitches.

Side Seams

Place the trimmings at the side seams pointing down.

10.) Place front pieces right sides facing onto the

back piece, pin side seams (Seam number 6), stitch,

continuously stitching the narrow trimming edges

onto the back piece.

De-baste seam allowances and finish.

Hem

11.) De-baste hem at the back piece. Turn hem and

trimming side. Pin edges. Sew hem and trimmings

at seam from hand with loose stitches. (11a)

Sleeves

12.) Place lower sleeve right sides facing onto the upper

sleeve, pin back seam (seam number 7) and stitch.

Finish seam allowances.

13.) Lay pleats around the arm base coming from the

right fabric side in the direction of the arrow, pin.

14.) To secure the arm base from dot symbol to dot

symbol, stitch in two rows close to each other with

wide stitches. Fold sleeves lengthwise, stitch front

sleeve seams (Seam number 8), finish seam

allowances. De-baste sleeve seam, turn inside

and stitch, allowing 3 cm. (1 ¼ inches)

Inserting Sleeves

To maintain the shape of the arm base, lightly pull the botbbin

thread of the stitching seams.

15.) Place sleeves right side facing onto

opening, . When inserting sleeves, 4 spots are

important to the fit:

The horizontal lines 9 of the upper sleeves and front

piece have to meet.

The horizontal line of the bottom sleeve has to meet

the side seam.

The horizontal line of the arm base has to meet the

shoulder seam.

The width between the dots has to be distributed so

that no pleats are created. Pin sleeves coming from

the sleeve side and stitch. Iron seam allowances in t o

the sleeves.

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