Tabletop Desk.pdf

TABLETOP DESK

Cherry, Poplar

MAKING THE TABLETOP DESK

achieve in such thin stock—could lock the material so that

cracking would occur in connection with this expansion

and contraction.

The inkwell drawer is next. The unusually shaped long

drawer side does two things. First, it is a drawer guide,

and second, it prevents the drawer (with its bottle of ink)

from being completely withdrawn from the case, a circum-

stance that could easily have had messy results.

After forming the drawer parts, glue and tack them

together. Then, fit the drawer to its opening and screw the

wooden bracket that acts as its guide and keeper to the

inside face of the desk back.

Assemble the stationery drawer with through dovetails

at the front and half-blind dovetails at the back.

The till rests on a pair of 1/8"-thick supports which are

glued to the inside faces of the desk front and back. After

installing these supports, glue the till—with its side already

glued to the bottom—into place atop the supports. Fasten

it also to the desk side with a thin line of glue.

The top panel is removed from the clamps and planed

to a thickness of 5/16".Then, cut 1/8"X 1/8 " grooves in both

ends of the top panel to receive the tongues on the bread-

board ends. Form and fit the tongues to the grooves. Hold

After the material has been dimensioned, edge-joint and

glue the boards that will make up the desk top.

Plough a 1/8"X 1/4 " groove on the inside faces of the

desk sides, front, and back. This groove will later receive

the bottom of the materials compartment. Then, cut

openings in the sides for the inkwell and stationery

drawers.

Next, cut the angles on the desk sides on the band saw,

after which the four sides of the case are dovetailed. The

case is dry-assembled, and the bevels on the top edge of

the front and back are marked from the angles on the sides.

Form these bevels with a hand plane, and glue-up the four

walls of the case around the bottom of the materials com-

partment.

Before installing the bottom, glue and brad into place

the cock bead that frames the stationery drawer. Also at

this time, glue the two fill strips that will guide the stationery

drawer in position. Then, tack the bottom into place using

small finishing nails. Nails are perhaps better than screws

for this particular application because they are flexible

enough to allow for seasonal expansion and contraction of

the bottom across its width. Screws—unless they pass

through oversized holes which would be very difficult to

The opened tabletop

desk reveals the ink

well drawer and the

paper drawer in the

bottom.

BREADBOARD DETAIL

each breadboard end in place with a dab of glue on the

tongue at the middle of the tongue's length. The remainder

of the tongue floats on the groove, allowing for seasonal

expansion and contraction of the top.

Hinges are problems because of the top's extreme thin-

ness. My dad, who built this particular piece, struggled to

find screws that could get a good enough bite in the top

to hold it in place. After trying and discarding several brass

screws, he settled on deep-threaded 3/8 " no. 6 steel screws

from which he'd ground away the tips so that they wouldn't

penetrate the upper surface of the top.

After fitting the hinges, remove the hardware, and give

the desk a final sanding.

wood surrenders its mosture so slowly that surface checking

is almost unheard of. And it's worth mentioning that, just

like air-dried stock, kiln-dried stock, when exposed to hu-

mid, July conditions, quickly takes on enough moisture to

reach 11, 12 or even 13 percent.

The answer to the problem of wood movement isn't

laboring to make wood inert; it is, I think, to accept move-

ment as an inevitable component of solid-wood construc-

tion and to design to accommodate that inevitability.

KILN-DRIED OR AIR-DRIED

Reference books inevitably cite the necessity of using kiln-

dried material for funiture construction. I think that's

misleading.

Of the thousands of board feet of lumber I've turned

into chairs and into casework, less than a quarter was kiln-

dried. The remainder was air-dired outdoors and finish-

dried in my shop. Nevertheless, I can remember only two

occasions when pieces I built experienced wood failure.

Once, I built a Hepplewhite huntboard from air-dried

cherry. The top (which didn't fail) was fastened to cleats

fixed with slotted screw holes. But one of the end panels,

which I had triple-tenoned into the posts, split after sitting

in our living room through a couple of cold, dry Ohio

winters. In looking back on the construction of the hunt-

board, I remember hurrying to finish it before Christmas

since it was a present for my wife.

When I glued up the end panels, I remember noticing, as I

slathered glue on the middle tenon, that I hadn't cut the

top and bottom tenons back to allow the end panel to

shrink. Each tenon completely filled its mortise. But the

glue was already on the middle tenon and in its mortise.

To cut the other tenons back, I would have to wash away

the glue, find my paring chisel, pare the tenons, and reglue.

Or risk having the aliphatic resin glue set before the joint

was assembled. I remember thinking it wasn't worth the

effort. I remember thinking I could get away with it. The

end panel failed because I built it to fail. I think that if

allowances are made during design for the inevitable

movement of wood, carefully air-dried material is every

bit as good as kiln-dried. In fact, I think that careful air-

drying is preferable to the kind of rushed kiln-drying

practiced by some commercial driers. At least in humid

Ohio, air-drying is a gradual process during which

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