DespatchManual.pdf

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

M ODELING T HE

D ESPATCH N O . 9

F D IESEL T OWBOAT , 1945 F

Technical Characteristics

Scale: 5/32" = 1 ft.

Overall Length: 13-1/2"

Beam: 3-3/4"

Height: 7" (top of mast to bottom of keel)

Instructions prepared by Ben Lankford

Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc. • Hollywood, Florida

Sold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc. • www.modelexpo-online.com

Model Shipways Kit No. 2011

HISTORY

The original model plans and kit of the Despatch No. 9 were developed in 1949 by John Shedd, the original owner of

Model Shipways in Bogota, New Jersey. These early plans and the kit have been updated with more detail and reissued

by Model Shipways, Inc. and sold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways. New instructions are provided along

with a more complete set of supplies for building the model. The fittings are now cast from lead-free Britannia metal

and laser-cut wood parts have been added.

The Despatch was constructed from an Army design; 85' Motor Tug designated Army ST (small tug). The original

design plans for the tug are in the Army Transportation Museum in Fort Eustis, VA. The Museum also has a model of

the Army tug on display. There are some differences between the Army tug design and the Despatch, changes required

by the owner no doubt. Primarily, the Despatch has a different towing winch and capstan, and some minor differences

in the deck house compartments. The Army version also has railings on the pilot house top and two machine guns, and

there is a lifeboat carried on the upper deck.

To incorporate the differences between the Army version and Despatch, John Shedd obviously has access to plans and

information specific to Despatch. Unfortunately, none of the original information could be found.

There are two other known tugs built from the Army design. The Messenger was built in 1944 in New Orleans as an

Army tug, but in 1946 was acquired by the Coast Guard. Likewise, the Angels Gate started out as an Army tug, but

soon became a commercial tug in California. What is nice about the Angels Gate is the fact that it is still around. The

tug has been restored and is a floating exhibit at the Los Angeles Maritime Museum. The tug is as built by the Army,

except the machine guns have been removed. There are a number of photos of the tug on the Museums web site.

HISTORY

Construction Stages & Table of Contents

Brief History ................................................................1

Before You Begin ..........................................................3

How To Work With The Plans & Parts ........................3

What You’ll Need to Start Construction .......................3

Painting ........................................................................4

Stage C: Mounting the Hull

1. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals.........................8

2. Launching Ways .......................................................8

Stage D: Adding the Hull Details

1. General Notes...........................................................9

2. Windows, Airports, & Doors....................................9

3. Running Lights, Flagstaff, & Mast............................9

4. Ladders, Upper Deck Railing & Hand Rails.............9

5. Horn, Searchlight, Bell, Ventilator, & Life Ring .......9

6. Deckhouse Name Board & Lettering........................9

7. Stern Grating............................................................9

8. Bow Chock, Cleats, and Manholes .........................10

9. Capstan & Towing Machine ...................................10

10. Air Vents ..............................................................10

11. Log Fenders & Bow Bumper ................................10

12. Anchor .................................................................10

13. Final Touches........................................................10

Stage A: Shaping the Pre-Carved Hull

1. Using the Templates .................................................4

2. Carving the Hull ......................................................4

3. Carving the Bulwarks ...............................................5

4. Deckhouse Carving ...............................................7-8

Stage B: Completing the Basic Hull Structures

1. Installing the Keel & Stem........................................6

2. Installing the Sternpost, Prop Shaft Tube Fairing,

& Propeller...............................................................6

3. Installing the Rudder Skeg & Rudder....................6-7

4. Cutting Out & Detailing the Freeing Ports ..............7

5. Installing Bulwark Brackets, Stiffeners, Cap Rail,

Quarter Bitts, Chocks, & Hawse Pipe Lips...............7

6. Installing the Outboard Pipe Fenders .......................7

7. Constructing the Deckhouse .................................7-8

Bibliography ...............................................................11

constructed of fairly thin steel plates that

would be too thin for a small scale wooden

model. So, the model construction is modi-

fied on some details. The real ship details

provided are interesting to know and they

allow you to be creative and possibly modify

the model details provided for the kit design

to suit your own approach.

In addition to the plans, a set of sketches

appears throughout the instruction manual

to further illustrate the various stages

of construction.

The Despatch No. 9 kit is manufactured to a

scale of 5/32" = 1'0" and matches the plans.

Consequently, most of the dimensions can be

lifted directly from the plans using a “tick

strip”. This is simply a piece of paper (a roll of

calculator paper tape works very well). Mark a

dimension from the plan onto the tick strip

and transfer it to the model.

The Despatch No. 9 kit is supplied with

Britannia metal, brass, as well as wooden

fittings to eliminate problems in making such

parts from scratch. Because the Britannia

metals contain no lead, there are no possible

corrosion problems. Many of these fittings

will require final finishing before installing on

the model.

Before painting the cast-meal fittings, clean

them up by removing all the mold-joint flash.

To do this, use a No. 11 hobby blade to cut the

flash, then sand with fine sandpaper. It is also

suggested that you clean the fittings

thoroughly with warm soapy water before

applying primer. Make sure they are rinsed

thoroughly and allowed to dry before painting.

fitting holes

3. Pin vise

G. Miscellaneous

1. Tack hammer

2. Tweezers (a few)

3. Small fine pointed scissors

4. Miniature pliers

a. Small round

b. Flat nose

5. Bench vise (small)

6. Soldering iron

a. Solder

b. Flux

Note: soldering is not essential for this particular model

if the kit fittings are used.

7. 1/2" or 3/4" masking tape

8. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire

and strip metal)

H. Sandpaper

Fine and medium grit garnet or aluminum

oxide sandpaper (#100 to #220 grit)

I. Finishing:

1. Paint brushes

a. Fine point for details

b. 1/4" to 1/2" flat square for hull

J. Supplies: (will be covered in detail in

the Painting section and throughout instruc-

tions)

1. Paints

2. Primer

3. White or Carpenter’s (yellow)

Wood Glue

4. Five-minute epoxy

5. Cyanoacrylate (Super) Glue

Note about glues: White or Carpenter’s yel-

low wood glue will suffice for most of the

model. Five-minute epoxy provides extra

strength for gluing fittings. Cyanoacrylate

(Super) glue, called CA glue for short, such

as Zap is excellent for quick adhesion. The

best CA glue for most applications is a

medium viscosity gap-filling type. The

watery-thin type is recommended only to

fill a narrow crack by capillary action. For

CA glue, you can also purchase a liquid

accelerator such as Zip Kicker. A spray or

drop of the accelerator will instantly cure

the glue. This is handy to eliminate clamp-

ing parts for long periods of time waiting

for glue to harden.

Use CA glue with caution. You can easily

glue your fingers or eyelids together and the

fumes can burn your eyes. It would be a

good idea to have a bottle of CA debonder

on hand. This product will dissolve the glue

if you do get it on your skin.

Before You Begin

The Despatch No. 9 is an interesting model for

beginner and expert alike. This kit contains a

solid hull, which has been machine-carved

from select, medium-hard, fine-grained bass-

wood. This style hull provides a quick and

easy lesson in the basic shapes and propor-

tions of hull design and helps to develop

woodworking skills. Although the exterior of

the hull has been carved close to the hull lines

as shown on the plans, further carving is nec-

essary for reasons of accuracy. (Carving and

finishing the hull to its final shape are dis-

cussed in the instructions.)

Constructing the Despatch No. 9 model also

will provide you with the opportunity to

develop some scratch-building techniques.

During construction, you may want to sub-

stitute some of the kit fittings with your own

creations. By all means try them, especially if

you think you can improve the model.

If you are a beginner, completing this model

will prepare you for a more complicated

model such as the Dapper Tom, another solid

hull model but a sailing ship with rigging to

contend with, and eventually a model like

Pride of Baltimore II, which is outfitted with

a plank-on-bulkhead hull. In the meantime,

happy modeling!

Working with the Plans & Parts

Before starting model construction, examine

the kit and study the plans carefully. Familiar-

izing yourself with the kit will serve two

purposes. First, it will let you determine that

all parts have been supplied as listed. And

second, you’ll be surprised at how quickly

handling the parts allows you to better under-

stand the kit requirements. Try to visualize

how every part will look on the completed

model. Also, determine ahead of time what

must be done first. The instructions will help

you in this regard, but a thorough knowledge

of the plans at the outset is essential.

It is also suggested that all small fittings and

hardware be sorted into labeled boxes or

compartments to avoid loss during the

building process.

Two Plan Sheets and Two Template Sheets are

provided:

1. Hull Plan (Sheet 1 of 2)

2. Lines Plan and Details (Sheet 2 of 2)

3. Hull Templates (Sheet 1of 2 - Profile) on

heavy paper stock

4. Hull Templates (Sheet 2 of 2 - Stations) on

heavy paper stock

Note: In the process of updating the plans,

several new details were added that reflect the

real boat construction as well as details for the

model construction. The real Despatch was

What You’ll Need To Start

The following tools and supplies are recom-

mended for the construction process.

Modelers who have built before may have

their own favorites. Almost all are available

at www.modelexpo-online.com.

A. Knives and Saws

1. Hobby knife with No.11 blades

2. Fine tooth razor saw

B. Files

Set of needle files

C. Sharpening Stone

Necessary to keep the tools razor sharp

D. Clamps

1. A few small C-clamps

2. Several wooden clothespins

3. Rubber bands

E. Tool Set

A small carving tool set or individual

hand chisels for shaping the hull.

F. Boring Tools

1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #80

(you won’t use all the sizes in the set)

2. 1/16", 3/32", & 3/16" bits for various

Ventilator - Aluminum with inside of

cowl Red

Smoke Stack - Black with White “S”

Airport frames, Window frames. and

pilot house doors - Dark Brown

Running lights - Light boxes, outside and

top of the light fixture - Red, Aluminum

inside. Port light glass - Red, Starboard

light glass - Green

Paint:

Use a flat-finish paint. Model Shipways line

of acrylic paints are available in the recom-

mended colors. You may also purchase an

already assembled Despatch paint kit from

Model Expo at www.modelexpo-online.com.

Primer:

Use a grey primer (one is provided with the

Model Expo Despatch paint kit. The grey

color will highlight sanding scratches and

other defects better than white primer. Prime

all woodwork to be painted, and prime all

metal fittings. Lightly sand the primed

items. Use a spackling compound such as

Pic-n-Patch brand to fill any scratches and

defects, then re-prime.

artist’s brushes. A small pointed brush is

good for details. For the main hull areas, use

a 1/4" to 1/2" flat brush.

Before painting, clean the model with a tack

rag. Apply your paint in smooth and even

strokes, overlapping them as you go. Thin

the paint enough to eliminate brush strokes,

but not run. You will need three or four

coats of the light colors to cover the grey

primer and maybe only two coats of the

dark. Check your finish between coats and

sand and add spackle as necessary to get rid

of any blemishes.

You will be told how to mark the waterline

location in Stage A. At this line, and any-

where else two colors meet, use masking

tape. Electrician’s black plastic tape or any of

the hobby tapes made of plastic film are

ideal. They leave a nice edge and are not

overly sticky. Do not use drafting tape unless

it is Chart-pak brand. The edges are some-

what wrinkled and paint may run under

them. A good trick; seal the edge of masking

tape with a clear flat finish and let dry thor-

oughly. This will really prevent paint from

running under the tape.

Painting

It may seem strange to begin an instruction

manual with direction on applying the

finishes to the model. Not so! Much time

and effort can be saved and a more profes-

sional result can be obtained if the finishing

process is carried out during construction.

Proper timing in application of finishes and

the use of masking tape to define painted

edges should eliminate unsightly glue marks

and splotchy stained surfaces. In the end,

following these general suggestions will be

to your advantage.

Paint Colors:

The color scheme for Despatch No. 9 is as

follows:

Hull Above the Waterline - Medium Gray

Hull Bottom Below Waterline - Dark Green

Decks - Light Brown

Deck House, watertight doors, skylight,

masts, life ring and air vents - Aluminum

House Border Trimmings (top moulding

on house, engine room skylight), search

light, horn, grating at stern, inside bulwarks,

and ladders) - Red

Bitts, chocks, cleats, capstan, and towing

engine - Black

Brushes & Procedures:

Use good quality soft sable or synthetic hair

STAGE A: SHAPING THE PRE-CARVED HULL

Sanding alone will not shape the hull

enough to precisely match the hull lines.

Some carving is required, especially at the

rail, keel, bow, & stern areas.

1. Using the Templates

For exact carving to hull lines, a template is

required for the hull profile and each of the

12 stations. You will find a template set

printed on heavy stock paper in the kit. Cut

the templates out carefully with a No. 11

hobby knife. Do not use scissors! You will

want a nice smooth edge.

Option-The profile template can be cut at

Station 6 to make fitting easier. Just make

sure you have the keel straight and don’t

build in a knuckle. Likewise, the station

templates can be cut at the bulwark. If you

do this, mark the width of the hull at each

station on top of the bulwark beforehand

and carve to these marks.

Note: The profile template shows a notch

forward and one aft at the keel and stem.

These notches are where the heavy stem pipe

and the rudder skeg are glued. The notches

can be added as you carve the profile shape,

but probably better if you wait and file these

notches in when you are ready to install the

stem pipe and rudder skeg.

2. Carving the Hull

Cut a wooden block from scrap to about 3"

x 1" x 3/4" thick. Screw the block to the

deck so the model can be held in a bench

vise for carving. First, check the accuracy of

the profile and correct it as necessary, using a

long sanding block.

Next, mark the centerline, rabbet lines

(where hull meets keel) and station lines on

the model (Figure A-1). Place the station

marks on the center of the hull bottom and

on top of the rails so the marks won’t be

carved off as you work. Also, add the

breadth marks on the rail if you elected the

option noted above.

Note: The width from the port to starboard

keel and stem rabbet is 3/32" wide from the

rail at the bow and all the way back to the

end of the keel. You will be fitting a 3/32"

wide keel strip to this flat area back to Station

10. From Station 10 to the end of the keel is

where the rudder skeg will be fitted. At the

sternpost, carve this area down also to 3/32"

wide where the stern post will be fitted.

Start carving approximately at Station 6

(maximum beam) and progress forward,

then aft, using chisels and gouges to cut

away excess wood. Avoid carving against the

grain by shifting forward or aft of Station 6

until you find a spot where you are going

with the grain. Basswood carves easily, so

you probably won’t have much problem with

the grain.

Carve very slowly and take off a little wood

at a time. Fit the templates as you go. Carve

until the template fits reasonably well, then

use sandpaper to obtain the final shape. At

first the templates will not fit very well. You

must compare the template to the hull and

visually decide where to remove wood. Cut a

little off, then re-check the template.

Finally, draw a few horizontal pencil lines

(like waterlines) and the vertical station lines

on the hull. Use these to visually check the

shape of the hull. Hold the hull at various

angles, and look to see if the pencil lines are

fair (even). If you have any unfairness, dips

or bump, they can usually be found with this

visual check. You can also use a stiff stick of

wood, about 3/32" square, and lay it on the

hull at various locations. Dips in the hull

will show up under the stick.

3. Carving the Bulwarks

Make yourself a temporary cradle to secure

the hull while carving. This cradle also will

serve to hold the model for most of the

remaining work. Make the cradle so the

model sits in it with its waterline parallel

to the baseboard and table. The tops of the

cradle should be below the waterline.

Later, when you are ready to paint, attach

a pencil on top of a wooden block and

slide it along the table to mark the loca-

tion of the waterline.

The machine-carved hull has bulwarks

thicker than scale so they won’t break while

inside the kit box. The upper surface is cut

to the underside of the cap rail. After you

carve the outside of the hull, the bulwarks

will be thinner. If more than 1/16" thick it

will be necessary to carve the inside of the

bulwarks. This is the most difficult part so

work slowly as you carve (Figure A-2). After

carving, sand the surfaces smooth. If you

happen to have or want to buy a powered

rotary tool like a Dremel, there are many

cutters available to quickly reduce the bul-

wark thickness.

Note that bulwark brackets go onto the

inboard side of the bulwarks. The brackets

should be 1/32" wide at the top and 5/32"

at the bottom. Together with the bulwark,

the brackets must fit under the cap rail

which is only 3/32" wide. If the brackets

will not fit, sand the inside of the bulwark a

little more at the top. You can then taper

the inside down to the deck without reduc-

ing the thickness at the deck. You won’t

really see that the bottom is thicker than

the top. Of course, you could use a wider

cap rail but don’t get it too wide or the scale

will not look proper. Figure A-3 is a cross

section thru the bulwark.

Note: As noted earlier, the bulwarks for the

model have been modified from the real

boat design somewhat. On the real boat the

cap rail and bulwark are constructed from

1/4" to 3/8" thick steel plate. At our model

scale these would be paper thin and too

fragile for a wooden model. The real boat

details and the model modifications are

shown on the plans.

Carving the Bulwark Around the Stern -

The bulwark around the stern slopes for-

ward at a rather large angle. However, on

the real boat, the inboard side is plated in

way of the grating platform which covers a

rudder control quadrant. Carve the inside

of the bulwark in this area so the bulwark is

vertical (Figure A-4).

4. Deckhouse Carving

The deckhouse construction will be dis-

cussed in Stage B.

FIG. A-1 MARKING THE HULL

MARK RABBET LINES

3/32"

RABBET

MARK CENTERLINE

WOOD TO BE

CUT AWAY

3/32"

RAIL

WIDTH

AT RAIL

3/32"

MARK

STATION

LINES

FIT

TEMPLATES

MARK STATIONS

ON TOP OF RAIL

FIG. A-2 CARVING BULWARKS

SUGGEST USING

THIN METAL SHEET

TO PROTECT DECK

WHILE CARVING

SMOOTH

WITH

CHISEL

USE GOUGE

FIRST

FIG. A-3 BULWARK

CROSS-SECTION

FIG. A-4 STERN CARVING INBOARD

CAP RAIL

CARVED

BULWARK

BRACKET

CUT VERTICAL

THIN BULWARK

DECK

FRONT GRATING

SUPPORT BEAM

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