BCBCCd01.pdf

CHAPTER

Live Steam Boiler and Engine

It is fun to complete an engine

and see it run on compressed air,

but it is more fun to run it on

steam. The engine and boiler

described here are good starters on

your Live Steam projects. They

are within the capacity of a model

lathe and made of quite common

materials.

The BOILER and BURNER

are of copper and brass

construction for easy soldering.

The model shown was soldered

with 4300 solder. After firing up a

half-dozen or so times, there is no

sign of failure. The 1-1/2 tubing is

common sink drain pipe. The

FLUE is 1/2 O.D. copper. The

two FILL TUBES are 5/16 I.D. x

11/32 O.D. brass sold as

telescoping tubing. An assortment

package of corks from the corner

hardware store had four corks that

fit the 5/16’ tubing.

The LAGGING here is sheet

asbestos. It is really needed. The

brass carries away the heat so fast

the burner can barely keep up.

Optional Lagging could be 1/28

wood veneer stock of your choice,

Run the grain vertical and moisten

the outside so it will bend easily

and wrap around the Boiler.

While making the parts for the

Boiler and Burner, try for a push

fit at all solder points. The

assembly will hold its shape better

while soldering. The cone-shaped

TOP makes a dead air space for

insulation and makes the Boiler

appear slightly more authentic.

Use an escutcheon pin for a rivet

in this cone. Try for a lose free fit

on the Boiler. It is not soldered to

the Boiler.

About 12" of fine wire was

folded in the center and started in

the Wick end of the Burner. With

a bit of patience, it can be worked

through until it shows under the

fill tube. Hook it up out of the fill

tube and thread the candle wicking

through the wire loop. Draw it

back through the tube until 3/8 of

Wick is showing above the

Burner. The size of this Wick bouquet

determines the size of the flame.

The ENGINE is fairly simple and not

too much will be said about the

construction. The rubbing face of the

CYLINDER must be flat and smooth.

Make the 1/16 Shaft a close fit so it will

be square with the face when soldered.

Chamfer the Cylinder slightly for the

solder. Apply flux and a very tiny chip of

solder and heat the Cylinder with a

propane torch. By inserting a close-

fitting aluminum rod in the bore, the

Shaft and solder will not enter the bore

or stick to the aluminum.

Try various SPRINGS from your

collection. The one used here had the

dimensions shown.

Do not run the STEAM PIPE in so far

that it shuts off the steam passage. Thread the

end #5-40 while the metal is rigid or “half hard”.

Mount the threaded end in a small vise and

place a piece of larger tubing over the projecting

end. Play the propane torch flame on one side of

the tube and slowly apply pressure, bending

away from the torch. You can feel the moment

the heat has removed the work-hardened

condition of the tube. Take it easy and bend at a

right angle. If the heat is spread evenly on the

stretch side of the bend, it will hardly collapse

the tube at all. At final assembly, the bent end

must aim at the Boiler when it runs tight in the

thread. Apply pipe joint compound to the thread.

Assemble the Engine and Boiler on the Base and

solder the pipe into the Boiler.

The ports in the column are made with a jig as

shown. Use the shouldered locating pin

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locating pin and a 1/16 straight pin in the column.

Hold the jig against the locating pin while drilling.

Turn the jig over the second hole.

Use the same jig to drill the port in the Cylinder.

Insert the Piston in the Cylinder. Place jig over the

shaft and a 1/16 pin through the jig and Connecting

Rod.

Do not seal this Boiler any tighter than provided by

the cork. It will hold the 5 to 10 pounds of pressure

needed and easily blow out if higher pressure

develops. Do not have your face above the Boiler

when Operating. Remember, you are dealing with

flammable liquid, fire, hot water and steam. If you

made this for your grandson, supervise his operation

of this model.

A hypodermic syringe is great for measuring the

water and alcohol. The Boiler should be only about

2/3 full of water. If the Boiler runs out of water (the

engine stops) blow out the flame immediately

This is a good educational project with lots of

operational action.

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