Installation of Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise control on a '95 XJ6 3.2 l.pdf

1997-2005

Installation of Audiovox CCS-100

Cruise control on a ’95 XJ6 3.2 l

V. 1.0

08/31/05

JEGUAR

’89 XJ40, ’95 X300

Distribution : www.jag-lovers.org

CC : X300 list administrator

Re : adding an aftermarket cruise control on an X300 jaguar

IMPORTANT WARNING

This document is a report of the author’s own installation and there are no explicit or implicit guarantees of

any kind that this will work on any other car. The author shall not be held liable by any mean of any damage

or accident resulting of the installation of any type of cruise control in any type of car.

Readers of this document who venture into installing a cruise control in their car do it at there own risk. If they

have any doubt on installing such a system by themselves, they should have it installed by a qualified

professional.

1. Introduction

In Europe, Jaguar is selling cars stripped down of many features and charging extra for them as

options, although these features as commonly regarded as a basic requirements for a car of that

class. The cruise control is one of these options. One can therefore find cars which are missing this

feature, even though cruise control has become critical in not being stopped for overspeeding.

Hence the need to install a cruise control on such cruise control impaired jaguars.

The Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control kit is typically reselling for US$100 and has received many

very good user reviews. Its weak point is the documentation, which is not very specific and does not

cover Jaguars at all. After some research, I decided to install this aftermarket cruise control on my

’95 X300 and to document the procedure for the benefit of other Jaguar owners.

After completion of the project, I am very pleased with the smoothness and accuracy of this cruise

control (which performs substantially better than the factory installed one I had on an XJ40) and

turned out to be compatible with my ’95 XJ6 (X300).

2. Preparing for the installation

2.1. Tools

I used the following tools:

• a limited set of metric spanners (10 mm, 13 mm)

• a 10 mm L-type socket spanner

• a mid-size Philips screw driver

• one large blade flat screw driver

• a T-20 Torx screw driver

• one side cutting pliers

• one long nose pliers (optional but useful to “fish” dropped screws!)

• an electric drill with 6 mm and 15 mm metal bits

• soldering iron and solder (optional, I like to solder wires into the plugs for better conduction)

• volt / ohm meter to check connections and signal (optional)

2.2. Parts used in the CCS-100 kit

The CCS-100 kit is fairly comprehensive and contains many more mounting parts than I actually

used. Here are the parts I used:

• 1 servo assembly

• 1 dash mounted control switch

• 4 tie straps

• 1 convoluted tubing

• 1 long vacuum hose

• 1 main wiring harness

• 1 fused wire with switch connector

• 1 bead chain

• 2 bead chain coupling sleeves

• 2 bead chain couplings

• 1 throttle wire loop (my kit contained 2, I used the longest one)

• 1 M6 5/8” hex head bolt

• 1 M6 washer

• 1 M6 hex nut

When purchasing the Audiovox CCS-100 kit, it is a good idea to check that all parts are included.

The installation manual contains a list of parts with visuals in page 2.

2.3. Parts not included in the CCS-100 kit

The CCS-100 kit is fairly comprehensive and you will find many more mounting parts than you will

actually use. The only parts I used which were not included were the following:

• 5 round male plugs ( ± 3 mm, to plug into the cruise control harness connector – actually I

couldn’t find the right size, so I bought 4 mm round plugs and modified them).

2.4. Time required for installation

Based on my experience (exploring without any directions), I believe that, with this guide, a clean,

professional installation would take:

• 60 min for the installation in the engine bay

• 90 min for the installation of the electrical part in the cabin

• 15 min for the road test

This assumes some going back and forth between the car and this documentation and some

hesitations/ double-checking.

3. Preparation work

3.1. In the engine bay

I have installed the CCS-100 servo assembly under the air duct going from the air filter box to the

carburetor. For a LEFT HAND DRIVE CAR , this location has many advantages (sorry, my good

friends driving on the wrong side of the road, I can’t help you – but it seems that there is plenty of

room on the right side of the car):

• easy routing of the vacuum hose to the intake manifold;

• easy routing of the cruise control cable;

• easy, very straight, routing of the wires to the firewall;

• grounding point near-by;

• existing hole for mounting screw;

• non original servo assembly is hidden under air duct preserving original look;

• the servo assembly is far enough from the cabin to avoid any noise.

To access the servo mounting location do the following:

• remove the plastic cover on top of the left hand lights and the air filter box;

• open the air filter box (4 fasteners at each corner, operate by hand);

• unscrew the 2 hex nuts holding the fix part of the air filter box;

• remove the fix part of the air filter box;

• untighten the collar holding the other end of the round air duct;

• remove the round air duct.

Left forward

of engine bay

CCS-100 servo assy

On this picture the fixed part of the air filter box is still in place

3.2. In the cabin

On a left hand drive car, the speed control module is located in the driver’s underscuttle (i.e. space

behind the panel under the steering wheel). The FC17 harness connector, which normally plugs in

the speed control module, regroups all the signals we need for the CCS-100, except the tachometer

signal. The TACH signal is available in the nearby FC16 connector, which plugs in left of the back

of the instrument panel. This is therefore where I routed the CCS-100 main and control switch

harnesses.

Gaining access to the speed control module connector:

• remove the 4 Philips screws holding the panel under the steering wheel;

• gently pull-out this panel. There is a 4-wire connector in the back (to the cabin temperature

sensor);

• press on the latch mechanism of the temperature sensor connector to unplug it;

• remove the large black flat air duct to facilitate access;

• fold the carpet away from the accelerator pedal’s bumper to reveal the sheet metal under

the grounding point in this area.

Speed control connector->

driver (left hand) side underscuttle

Since I didn’t find any suitable existing pass through between the engine compartment and the

cabin, I had to drill a hole to route the CCS-100 harnesses from the engine bay to the cabin.

WARNING: BEFORE DRILLING ANY HOLES, BE SURE THAT NO COMPONENTS WILL BE

DAMAGED AFTER THE DRILL PENETRATE THE SURFACE.

The convoluted tubing which protects the CCS-100 harnesses, requires a 15 mm hole. It is critical

to identify a location conveniently accessible with a drill and clear of any cable, hose or other

component on both sides.

I chose to drill 25 mm (1 inch) right and 25 mm below the grounding point near the speed control

module connector. There are two layers of sheet metal separating from the engine. I first drilled a

6 mm hole, which required less effort and allowed me to better control the progression of the drill. I

then inspected on the engine side to make sure that the hole was away from any component. I then

drilled again with a 15 mm bit to finalize the pass through.

New pass through hole

with convoluted tube in

3.3. Preparing the CCS-100 servo assembly

First, I shaped the mounting bracket to fit the desired location:

• remove the 3 small black Philips screws holding bracket on the CCS-100 servo assembly;

• use a vice or pliers to bend the bracket as shown below;

• screw the mounting bracket back onto the servo assembly.

bent here ->

<- hole used to bolt

<- bent here

Modified mounting bracket (bent to form two corners)

Then, I programmed the configuration switches in the CCS-100 servo:

• remove the 2 small black Philips screws holding the plastic cover on the back of the servo

assembly to gain access to the DIP switches.

• SW1 = ON / SW3 = ON: the X300 ECM supplies a signal pulsing at 15 Hz for 15 km/h

(10 MPH) which is equivalent to 7,200 PPM (pulse per minute). I set the CCS-100 on

8000 PPM;

• SW3 = ON: the I have wired both the VSS (vehicle speed) and TACH signals;

• SW4 = OFF / SW5 = OFF: medium sensitivity. As I like the cruise control’s behaviors when

set in medium, I did not test the other sensitivity settings;

• SW6 = OFF: this is the normal setting for the control switch provided in the CCS-100 kit.

Check the notice if you plan to use any other control switch.

• SW7 = OFF: the TACH signal is provided by the ECM (vs taped on the ignition coil)

I then plugged the CCS-100’s main harness in the 10-pin connector on the servo assembly side

and screwed back on the plastic cover.

Finally, I guided all the cables – except the short black grounding cable – into the convoluted tube.

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