Free Bag Pattern - 'For Pleats Sake' Tote.pdf - torebki - Aaron_86

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“For Pleats Sake!” Tote.

A practical roomy size, neat preppy pleats and a sweet curved top edge make this

tote pretty much the perfect bag for all of your day trips!

Pattern notes:

• All seam allowances are 3/8in (1cm) unless stated.

• The pattern is a landscape rectangle (see Step 1). Pattern has 3/8in (1cm) seam

allowance included.

• WSO/RSO/WST/RST = wrong/right side out/wrong/right sides together.

• Right side = front or pattern side of fabric

• Finished size: 17in (W) x 14 1/2in (H) x 3 1/8in (D). (43cm x 37cm x 8cm)

• Fusible Interfacing note: for this tutorial I used a linen/cotton blend fabric and I

chose not to use fusible interfacing (as this fabric is harder wearing). When

using this type of fabric you still can use med weight/woven fusible if you

prefer. If using quilt weight fabric you will have to use med weight/woven

fusible interfacing.

What you’ll need:

• 3/4yrd (3/4m) Iron-on fusible interfacing (see Fusible Interfacing note above)

• 3/4yrd (3/4m) Fusible Fleece (fusible is a must. Don’t use sew-in).

• Lining fabric and matching thread (quilt - linen weight is recommended)

• Exterior fabric and matching thread (quilt - linen weight is recommended. Not heavier)

• Disappearing fabric marker

• Bag straps. I used these Elbow/shoulder length handles. They are the perfect length

and proportions for this bag design.

2007

• Long Pins

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How to make the bag

Steps to prepare:

1. Before you begin have a read through the

instructions and follow them in order. Cut 2

of each all fabric, fleece (and the fusible

interfacing if using) pieces as below:

• 21in(W) x 15 5/8in(H). (53cm x

40cm)

2. If using, iron the fusible interfacing onto the

wrong side of the exterior fabric pieces.

3. Trim off 3/8in (1cm) all around the fusible

fleece pieces. Iron the fleece (centrally) to

the WS of the lining pieces. See Fig 1.

Fig 1. Iron the fleece to WS of the lining fabric so that there is an

even 3/8in (1cm) fabric margin all around the fleece.

4. On all fabric pieces make a marking on both

side edges 4 1/2in (11 1/2cm) down from

the top edge. These markings are your ‘V-

markings’ and will be important for later.

Steps to the exterior bag:

5. Make 2 marks for the first pleat - On the RS

top edge of one of the exterior fabric pieces

work from right to left to make the 2

markings as shown in Fig 2.

2 6/8in (7cm)

2in (5cm)

6. Fold the fabric into a concertina to make the

first pleat. Using the markings you just

made, fold the fabric as shown in Fig 3.

Place a pin into the pleat. See Fig 4.

7. Make another 2 marks for the 2nd pleat

(work from right to left as before) see fig

4. Fold the 2nd pleat in the same way as for

Step 6. Mark and fold another 4 pleats in

the same way so you have a total of 6

evenly spaced pleats running along the top

edge. Set aside.

Fig 2. Measure in from the right side and make 2 marks

on the top edge as shown in the pic above .

8. Pleat the other exterior fabric piece in the

same way by repeating Steps 5-7. Now

both exterior pieces have been pleated you

can match up them up against each other to

check they are both the same width. If not,

adjust as necessary. Take your time with

this step - a little bit of fitting & jiggling

around is to be expected :)

9. Take one of the exterior pieces and fan the

pleats out so that they look pretty and

reasonably even. If you can, arrange the

pleats to aim for a softly curved top edge.

When you’re happy with the way the pleats

sit, iron the folds approx 5 1/2in (13cm)

down from the top edge. See fig 5.

10. Now to mark the pleat stitch lines. Measure

and mark 4in (10cm) down from the top

edge on both the OUTER pleats See fig 6.

Repeat this step for the remaining 4 pleats

EXCEPT you need to measure 3 1/8in (8cm)

down from the top edge.

Fig 3. Fold the fabric into a concertina along the marks you

made in step 5.

11. Now to stitch the pleats in place using the

pleat stitch lines we just made as a guide. If

you like you can use more pins down the

length of each pleat before stitching them.

Topstitch the pleats in place though all

layers. Be sure to sew a few reverse stitches

at the end of each line to secure the

stitches. See fig 7.

2 3/8in (6cm)

1 5/8in (4cm)

12. Repeat Steps 9-11 for the other exterior

fabric piece. Be sure to compare and match

the two exterior fabric pieces (for equal

curviness at the top edge) at Step 9 before

you commit and stitch!

13. Bring the 2 pleated exterior pieces RST

match all edges and pin. Starting and

stopping at the V-markings (that you made

in Step 4 ) stitch the exterior pieces

together. (The V-markings are so called

because this is the point where the top part

of the bag opens out into a ‘V’ (or 2 flaps).

Stitch all along the sides and bottom edges.

Be sure to sew securing stitches at start &

end of your stitches. Iron the seams open.

Fig 4. Pop a pin into the 1st pleat to keep it in place. Measuring

from the folded edge of the first pleat (where the pink dot is) make

2 more pleat marks for the 2nd pleat as shown in the pic above.

Repeat for another 4 pleats. Working this way should result in

pleats that are all spaced 1 1/2in (4cm) from each other.

14. Create a flat bottom for the bag. Grab one

of the bottom corners of the exterior and

match the side seam with the bottom seam.

Flatten to form a triangle. Square off the

triangle tip as shown in Fig 8.

15. Stitch along the line you made in the

previous step and then trim off the excess

fabric See Fig 9. Repeat Steps 13-14 for

the other bottom corner. Turn the exterior

bag RSO.

Fig 5. Arrange the pleats to your liking and then iron them in

place. I used my trusty finger presser instead of an iron.

Steps to the bag lining:

16. Make the bag lining in the same way as the

exterior bag by repeating Steps 5-15

EXCEPT at Step 13 you need to leave a gap

of 6in (15cm) in the bottom edge for turning

out at a later stage and you need to leave

the lining bag WSO.

Steps to constructing the bag:

17. Insert the bag exterior (still turned RSO) into

the bag lining. The right sides of the bag

exterior and the lining should now be

touching each other. See Fig 10.

Fig 6. On the outer pleats, measure and mark 4in (6cm) down

from the top edge on the pleat fold. On the 4 inner pleats

measure 3 1/8in (8cm) down from the top edge.

18. You’ll see that the top of the bag forms a

‘V’ (or 2 flaps). Before pinning together take

extra care to match all V-markings at the

side edges of the lining and exterior bags.

See Fig 11. Carefully line up the lining and

exterior raw edges of both flaps, pinning one

flap at a time.

19. Stitch one flap at a time. Begin stitching at

the V-marking. To start, actually place your

needle into the V-marking (where the start/

end stitches from Step 13 are situated).

Stitch all around the sides and top edge

stopping at the other V-marking. Repeat

with other purse flap. Clip off the flap top

edge corners. See Fig 12.

Fig 7. Neatly topstitch the pleats in place stopping at the

markings you made in Step 9.

20. Turn the whole bag RSO by carefully teasing

the exterior bag completely out through the

opening in the lining. See fig 13. Push the

top edge corners out with a blunt tool.

21. Stitch the gap in the lining shut by pushing

the seam allowance inside the hole and

topstitching close to the edge for a neat

finish. Pop the lining into the exterior. Place a

clean tea towel over the exterior and iron

out any creases in the bag (use a travel

sized iron if possible - it's handier for getting

into them nooks and crannies!) The tea

cloth will prevent any goo or scorch marks

getting onto your yummy new bag.

3 1/8in (8cm)

Fig 8. Flatten one of the bottom corners - look inside the bag to

check that the side seam meets the bottom seam. Use a ruler, to

measure a line that is 3 1/8in (8cm) long &

at right angle (90 degrees) to the side seam.

22. Reinforce the ‘V’ at both side edges of the bag

by topstitching all along the ‘V’. Ensure your

top & bottom threads match your fabrics! See

Fig 14.

23. Mark the position for the bag handles. I chose

to place the outer side edge of my handles 1

1/8in (3cm) in from the side edge, but it’s up

to you where you put ‘em. See Fig 15.

24. Use tapestry thread to backstitch the handle

tabs to your bag. Stitch through all layers .

This is a nice job to do whilst watching the

telly. See Fig 16.

Fig 9. Stitch along the marked line ensuring your beginning

and ending stitches are nice and secure.

Trim off the excess fabric as 3/8in (1cm) from the seam

25. Ta Dah! All finished and looking lovely. I’ll see

you at the local deli for a tall mocha. Hehe!

Fig 10. Insert the exterior bag completely into the lining bag

as shown in the pic.

Fig 11 . Carefully match up the V-markings at the side edges of the

lining & exterior bags. Pin all around the top, one flap at a time.

Free Bag Pattern - 'For Pleats Sake' Tote.pdf

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