Mallorca
Climbing guide
based on rockfax website
C'an Nyic . . . . . . . 100
El Calo de Betlem . 1Queixal . . 106
Felanitx . . . . . . . . 154
Fraguel . . . . . . . . . 82
Gorg Blau . . 102
La Creveta . . . . . . 126
Les Perxes . . . . . . 118
Port de Sóller . . 92
Puig de Garrafa . . 34
Sa Gubia . . . . . . . . 62
Santa Ponça . . . . . . 42
S'estret . . . . . . . . . 48
Tijuana . . . . . . . . 168
Valldemossa . . . . . . 56
Xon Xanquete . . . 138
CALVIÀ
NOTE - Approach description in 2006 guide is incorrect. Parking is 1.9km after the school turning, just beyond the 2.6km post.Hidden away in a tree-infested gorge, close to the town of Calvià, is a slabby little wall which offers some excellent slab and wall climbing. The crag is beautifully situated and very friendly, except perhaps on your finger tips. The coarse rock has sharp and fingery holds, often with millions of alternatives to choose from, finding the correct ones often being the key to success.
Buttress (click for routes)
No. of Routes
Route Type
Sunshineor shade
Approach walk
Other
Page
Main CragThe routes tend to be slabby but the crag steepens towards its left-hand side offering some more...
17
10 mins
45
The routes tend to be slabby but the crag steepens towards its left-hand side offering some more sustained and steeper pitches. For most people there is a day or half day of climbing here and it can easily be combined with the other two crags down in the south west of the island. Guidebook page 45.
Route (click for voting and user comments)
Symbols
Grade
1
Windjamer20m. A clean area between some shrub-covered slabs.
6a
2
No cal senior fiscal20m. Similar to Windjamer but a touch harder.1 user comment
5+
3
Chanco22m. A good climb with a low crux.2 user comments
6a+
4
Perona22m. The wall left of the corner heading for a small overlap.1 user comment
6c
5
Tirili22m. Start up the right-facing corner.
6b
6
Saque mate24m. A superb route with a curious start. Either start direct (unprotected but easy) or step into it from the previous route.
7
Jota jota24m. Excellent, sustained climbing left of the black streaks.
8
Tu polla me enrolla25m. Superb climbing right of the tufas. Some find this harder, and a tad more airy, than Jota jota.1 user comment
9
Batakalofis20m. Start by a small flake and head for a lower-off by a tufa.1 user comment
10
Caguerra perpetua20m. Excellent long slab.1 user comment
11
Extrafina18m. Another fine slabby wall.
12
Weird Tree18m. Left of the weird tree.
13
Pinchito moruno18m. Climb to the right of the tree.
14
El ultimo de la fila18m. Start up the curving groove and side step the bulge on the right.
15
Calentura invernal18m. Start by climbing past a large natural thread. Follow the bolt-line and don't trend left since that is harder.
16
Filas pipas18m. A good extension pitch to any of the above three routes.
Primera experienca18m. The furthest right route on the wall gives good climbing with an interesting crux move.1 user comment
4+
S'ESTRET
S'estret is an area of easily accessed crags located just to the south of the beautiful village of Valldemossa. The various crags offer several different attractions for climbers; a series of pleasantly situated west-facing walls overlooking the road in the valley bottom - Sector Cuarentón; a set of boulders which have been developed with a multitude of problems; and an old abandonded quarry with a big steep overhanging wall with some exceptional routes in the higher grades. The Cuarentón area (formerly known as Sector Torrent) has been substantially developed since the publication of the last guidebook. There are now a good set of routes spread across the various walls, including some excellent easier-grade slab routes. The Main Crag itself has recently experienced a massive rockfall on its left-hand side wiping out some of the steepest lines, however the right-hand side of the crag remains in good order and still holds many lines worth seeking out by those looking for shady climbing in the higher grades. In the woods below the main crag the boulders offer some well-shaded bouldering.
Sector CuarentónA fine orange and grey wall that has a good set of routes at relatively-friendly grades plus one or...
49
Sector MarioAn attractive apron of rock with some relatively long and friendly slab routes.
50
Sector PipeA short wall with some pretty insignificant lines but worth a quick look if they are at your garde...
Sector PasiónPerched above Sector Pipe is a tall buttress with several good long routes which are well worth...
12 mins
51
S'estret - Main CragAn imposing crag even on sunny days, the main crag at S'estret provides plenty of very steep and...
21
5 mins
52
S'estret BouldersThe bouldering at S'estret features a number of problems tucked away in a very sheltered and cool...
2 mins
54
Sector Cuarentón
A fine orange and grey wall that has a good set of routes at relatively-friendly grades plus one or two harder offerings. The left-hand side gives the best routes, including a couple of good steep climbs on orange rock, but most of the routes tend to be slabby or vertical walls giving technical climbing. Guidebook page 49.
...
arkadius29