kid_STORAGE_CABINET.pdf

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STORAGE CABINET
This storage shelf is designed to be as versatile as possible. In other
words, it holds just about anything that is likely to end up scattered all
over the floor in your child's room. Its tall spaces hold oversize
children's books, school notebooks, stacks of games or stuffed
animals. The smaller spaces are proportioned for tapes, CDs, art
supplies and the odds and ends that inevitably clutter a child's room. It
also functions as a night stand because it falls at the right height for a
lamp, radio and alarm clock.
The construction of this piece employs the same materials as the
child's bed–
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Making Case Parts
Use a circular saw and 40-tooth thin-kerf, crosscut blade to
cut the plywood case parts to size. When plywood is cut,
there is a tendency for the face veneer to chip where the
blade exits the cut. You can prevent this chipping by using
two techniques. First, clamp a straight board across the
panel stock to guide the saw. Next, advance the saw
slowly, and keep the saw base tight to the guide strip
(Photo 1) .
1--Clamp a straightedge across the workpiece and
crosscut it with a circular saw. Support the piece that
will be cut off.
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Set up the router with a straight bit and an accessory edge
guide. Adjust the router to cut the rabbet at the back edge
of the case sides. Test the setup on a piece of scrap stock.
Then clamp a case side to the workbench and cut the
(Photo 2) . If you use a router bit with a 1/2-in.-dia. shank,
you can make the cut in one pass. If you are using a bit
with a 1/4-in.-dia. shank, you should take two passes to cut
the rabbet.
2--Use a straight bit in the router and the edge guide
attachment to cut a rabbet along the back edge of
the side panels.
Mark the locations of plate joint slots in the cabinet sides,
shelves and partitions. Note that the middle shelf has
staggered slots on the top and bottom surfaces. It's
important to stagger the slots to prevent too much wood
from being removed in one location.
3--Clamp a fence across a case side, and use it to
guide the plate joiner when cutting the plate slots for
the shelves.
Clamp a guide block to the case sides and shelves to help
locate the plate joiner when cutting the slots in the center of
a panel (Photo 3) . When you cut the slots in the sides for
the case top and bottom, you can use the fence on the
plate joiner to register the cuts (Photo 4) .
4--Clamp the case sides upright in a vise and cut
the slots along their upper edge using the plate
joiner's fence for alignment.
Use the workbench top as the registration surface when
you cut the slots in the ends of the shelves and partitions.
Firmly hold both the plate joiner and the workpiece to the
benchtop when making the cut. Keep your fingers well
away from the cutting area to avoid accidents.
Countersink pilot holes through the top, bottom and middle
shelves.
5--The short partitions are attached to the panel
above with screws, so there is no need to use glue
with the joining plates.
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Case Assembly
Begin the case assembly process by joining the case top to
the short partitions (Photo 5) . Install the joining plates in
their slots and position the short partitions over them. You
do not need to use glue on these plates because they
merely locate the joint. Turn the assembly over, and bore
pilot holes in the partitions (Photo 6) . Then screw the
partitions to the top panel.
6--Bore and countersink pilot holes into the top of
the short partitions. Then drive screws to fasten the
partitions and panel.
Spread glue in the joining plate slots for the joints between
the short partitions and the middle shelf. Place the middle
shelf over the short partitions, bore pilot holes into the
partition ends and fasten the shelf and partitions with
screws.
Next, install joining plates in the slots for the joints between
the bottom and the tall partitions. Assemble the partitions
and bottom, and fasten them with screws. Spread glue in
the slots and on the plates for the joints between the tall
partitions and the middle shelf. Install the plates, clamp the
assembly together and drive 6d finish nails through the
middle shelf into the short partitions (Photo 7) .
Spread glue in the slots and on the joining plates for the
joints between the middle shelf, top and bottom, and the
case sides. Assemble the parts, and drive 6d finish nails to
fasten the joints.
7--Drive finish nails at an angle through the tall
partitions and the middle shelf, and into the short
partitions.
Rip and crosscut the edge strips for the top. Apply glue to
them, clamp them to the top, and nail the parts together.
Apply poplar facing to the front of the sides, top, bottom,
middle shelf and partitions. Start with the case sides, then
apply the facing to the horizontal parts and finally to the
partitions. Note that the strips overhang the plywood panels
by 1/16 in. on each edge except for the case top, which has
a 1/8-in. overhang.
8--Use a chisel to cut a small clearance notch in the
top corner of each vertical facing strip. Cut in toward
the case.
Use a chisel to cut the notch at the top outside corners of
the facing strips (Photo 8) .
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Place the top panel upside down on the work surface, and
invert the case assembly over it. Bore pilot holes, and
screw the top to the assembly. Complete the case by
nailing on the back.
9--Use a putty knife to press drying filler into the nail
holes. Slightly mound the filler, and let it harden
before sanding.
Rip and crosscut the pieces of poplar and plywood for the
toe kick assembly. Clamp the assembly together, and join
the parts with glue and 6d finish nails. Clamp the toe kick
assembly to the bottom. Then bore and countersink pilot
holes through the cleats into the bottom. Screw the cleats
to the bottom.
10--Sand the surfaces carefully using a random-
orbit block sander. This tool is small enough to fit
into the compartments.
Finishing
Set the heads of all finish nails below the surface. Then fill
the holes with a wood filler (Photo 9) . Mound the filler
slightly over each hole since it shrinks when it dries. Sand
the cabinet, inside and out, with 120-, 150- and 180-grit
sandpaper (Photo 10) . Remove all sanding dust before
moving to the next finer grit of sandpaper. Carefully ease all
sharp edges with a sanding block (Photo 11) . Move the
sanding block perpendicular to the wood's edge to achieve
a crisp bevel. Remove all sanding dust by vacuuming and
using a tack cloth before applying the primer.
11--Put a small, crisp bevel on the facing and edge
strips with a sanding block that you move
perpendicular to the strip's edge.
Use a small-diameter, smooth-surface paint roller to apply a
coat of latex primer to all cabinet surfaces (Photo 12) . Note
that the long-handled roller used here has one end that is
somewhat shaggy. This allows you to apply paint right to
the corner. When the primer is dry, sand it lightly with 220-
grit sandpaper. Finish the project by applying two coats of
latex semi-gloss paint for an attractive finish.
12--A small-diameter roller is used to apply the
primer and top coat. The square end of the roller
allows it to paint into corners.
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