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***
MOST FAMOUS GERMAN SHIP!
The recognition granted by Americans to the Fokker D-7 as Germany's
leading World War battle plane is by no means ill-deserved. For had this
craft been in the bloody game prior to those few final months, the Allied
song of victory might never have been sung. Read the full story of this
great ship in Henry Struck's article below, and then take his fine model
plans and instructions into your workshop and prepare to-
Fly a Fokker D-7
Trail Blazers of the Air – No.9
***
by Henry Struck
EARLY in 1918, undoubtedly
aware of the fact that she was
nearing her last chances for victory
in the World War, Germany
desperately launched a vast program
of expansion and improvement for
her flying force. And among other
feverish activities, an open
competition for a new single-seater
fighting ship was announced by
General von Hoeppner, commander
of the Imperial Air Force.
what might constitute the ideal
pursuit ship.
So, armed with this knowledge
right from the skies of war, Fokker
had taken great care and much time
in the design and construction of his
entry for the competition. But when
construction was completed, the ship
showed an alarming tendency
toward spins!
Naturally, the leading aircraft
firms entered ships, and among the
new craft was a unique biplane
developed by Tony Fokker. Fokker,
it seemed, was pretty sure of his
ground--for just a few months before,
he had presented that now-famous
red "tripe" to Baron Manfred von
Richthofen, and with this ship as an
introduction he had been able to chat
with the Baron and other
experienced action-airmen about
Undaunted, Fokker and a
couple of mechanics sawed off the
rear of the fuselage, inserted an
extra section, added a larger fin, and
tried the ship again. The "bug" was
killed-and the ship flew perfectly!
And the open competition proved the
new Fokker far more maneuverable
than any German ship of the day. It
is true that other ships were
faster-
but
the front line aces who had test-
flown the biplane stated their
preference was for peppy combat
performance rather than speed.
With the introduction of the new
ships-which became known as the
Fokker D-7, the subject of our Trail
Blazer model this month-a definite
change occurred in aerial combat
tactics. Mass formations were
emphasized, as opposed to the
earlier days of the war when
individual air duels formed the
greater part of sky fighting. This
change took place because the
easier maneuverability of the new
ships made it possible for flyers who
were not "born birdmen" to handle
their crates in closer quarters. And
so satisfactory were these new
group tactics of the German army in
the World War the basis of air tactics
throughout the world is almost
entirely laid upon the system which
they devised.
Like most truly great
achievements, the keynote of the
Fokker D-7 was simplicity, and
clean, efficient lines marked its
external appearance-there was no
"birdcage" of wires and thick struts.
The fuselage and tail group were of
welded steel tubing, a type of
construction pioneered and
perfected by Fokker .
The wings were entirely of
wood, and the very thick "high lift"
airfoil tapered off to a thin section at
the tips. With the 160 h.p.
Mercedes power plant, the Fokker D-
7 could make a speed of 120 m.p.h.
which, while not quite up to many of
the Allied ships she met in combat,
was close enough to give her pilots
satisfaction.
CONSTRUCTION
AND now for our model D-7,
which you'll find simple to build, and
sturdy. The scale is 1/2" on the
model to 1' on the original ship. The
three-view drawing (Plate 1) is half
the size of the model, while the
layouts on Plate 2 are drawn to full
size.
The fuselage sides are cut from
1/32" sheet balsa to the pattern on
Plate 2. Stiffener strips of 1/16" sq.
are cemented across the inside of
each blank as indicated. Glue the
sides to the nose bulkhead of 3/16"
sheet balsa. The formers are cut
from 1/16" sheet, and Nos. I, II, and
III are cemented in position at the top
of the fuselage.
Connect the bottom with 1/16"
sq. cross pieces, pull the rear of the
body together, and insert former IV
and the remaining bottom cross
piece.
The bottom section of the nose
back to the rearmost landing gear
strut is filled in with 1/8”
sheet, the
grain running crosswise to the body.
Round this off to match the contour
of the nose bulkhead. The top of the
fuselage is covered with 1/32" sheet,
and a wedge shaped sheet, not quite
reaching the fuselage sides, covers
the turtle back as shown in the three-
view. Cut away the cowling for the
dummy motor and cockpit.
WINGS AND TAIL
THE taper of the wings
naturally requires ribs of different
sizes. Toward this end we have
developed the following simple
system. Cut out the tip and center
ribs as shown on Plate 2. Then
arrange a block of 1/32" sheet balsa
slats and the shaped ribs, as shown
in the rib taper detail sketch on Plate
1. With knife and sandpaper, using
the finished ribs as templates, shape
the wood into a tapered block. Spar
slots are now cut, and you have a
set of perfect taper ribs. Since there
is no taper in the center section, five
No.1 ribs are required.
The trailing edges (1/16" by
3/16" balsa) are pinned to a soft
board. Cement the end ribs against
them. Pin the leading edge (3/32"
sq. stock) to the nose of these ribs,
after which the remainder of the ribs
may be slipped into place.
Add tips of 1/32" sheet and a
spar of 1/16" sheet which is tapered
from 3/16" at the center to 3/32" at
the ends. Note that the spar and
trailing edge of the lower wing are
continuous and fit into slots at the
bottom of the fuselage sides.
The tail group is flat in section,
and is simply constructed of 1/16"
sheet and 1/16" sq. balsa.
The nose plug is a block 1/2" by
1 1/4" by 1 3/8” carved and sanded
to meet the fuselage lines smoothly.
Drill a hole at a slight downward
angle and cement bearings of
washers with bushings inserted.
Dummy cylinders and the
exhaust pipe are shaped of suitable
scraps of balsa and are then
cemented to a flooring of 1/32" sheet
fitted between the top edges of the
fuselage sides. A door is cut at the
rear of the body as shown, and a
motor hook of .028 piano wire solidly
cemented therein.
The landing gear consists of
V's made from 3/64" by 1/16"
streamlined bamboo struts. The
upper ends are pointed and
cemented into the fuselage bottom.
The small spreader wing between
the wheels is built up of 7 ribs, a 1/8"
sq. leading edge, and a 1/16" by
1/8" trailing edge. When dry, this
frame is attached to a triangular spar
bearing an axle of .028 wire and
which (the spar) has already been
cemented in the apex of the landing
gear V's. Mount a pair of 1 1/4"
balsa wheels with thin tires, and
we're ready to begin work on the
COVERING AND ASSEMBLY
SANDPAPER the entire
framework evenly, removing any
bumps that might prevent a perfect
finish. A simple yet striking coloring
is the basic color scheme on von
Richthofen's famous "Jagdstaffel
One"-all red with white rudder and
insignia outline. The various white
bands and other designs that
marked the individual members of
this squadron may be selected from
the many photos of Fokkers that
have been published.
Cover all exposed parts of the
fuselage and the airfoil surfaces with
colored tissue. Apply it in separate
sections at the tips and other curved
places.
All wing struts are of 3/64" by
1/16" streamlined bamboo. Struts C
are pointed, then cemented into the
bottom of the fuselage just above
landing gear struts A. They are then
braced with the short struts D and E.
A single pair of struts, F, also
support the upper wing.
sandpaper, dope the prop for
strength and smoothness. The prop
shaft, formed of .028 piano wire, is
passed through the nose plug and
prop and embedded in the hub, with
a couple of washers included for
bearings.
Four strands of 3/32" flat brown
rubber are required to fly a D-7
model weighing. 75 oz., and four
strands of 1/8” flat brown rubber are
needed for a heavier job. The model
should be adjusted with clay so that
it balances level at point 1” from the
leading edge of the upper wing.
Minor adjustments can be made by
warping the elevators up slightly in
case of a glide that is too steep, or
warping them downward to correct a
tendency to stall. Adjust the model
to fly in fairly tight right circles, and
then lubricate the rubber and wind it
with a winder for flights that will
make this ship one of your favorites.
Mount the upper wing panel,
allowing the struts to project slightly
into the wing on the outside of the
No.1 ribs, to provide ample surface
for a strong joint. Check the
alignment and the 1/16" incidence of
the wing. The bottom wing and the
elevator are cemented directly to the
fuselage at zero incidence.
The entire model may now be
sprayed with water and doped lightly
to tighten the tissue. Keep an eye
on all surfaces and correct any
tendency to warp before the tissue is
dry. The interplane struts G, H, and
I, are now cemented in the given
order to the outside of the No.4 ribs
and the inside of the No.11 ribs.
Two thin bamboo struts, J, brace the
stabilizer.
Details not needed on a flying
model such as steps, hand grips,
radiator, guns, and the like-are
shown on the three-view plan and
can be easily made up from balsa
scraps and pins.
Flying Aces – April, 1938
PROPELLER AND FLYING
CARVE the prop from a
medium hard block 5/8” by 1 1/8 " by
5 1/2". After finishing with fine
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