How-to-Build-a-Knife.pdf

(1233 KB) Pobierz
How to Build a Knife
by Basta on March 5, 2008
Table of Contents
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
2
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
2
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
2
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
3
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
4
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
5
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
6
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
9
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
10
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
12
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
14
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
15
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
15
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
15
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-Knife/
823274779.012.png
Intro: How to Build a Knife
So you want to make a knife?
I'm not here to dissuade you (rather, I'd like to encourage you), but let me first get this out of the way: knife making is a slow, delicate, painstaking, multi-faceted,
sometimes frustrating process. It requires skill in metalworking, woodworking and design, patience, attention, and general levelheadedness. You have to take your time if
you want to do things right, otherwise your experience will be sub-optimal. Even I have trouble with this sometimes, as this project will, itself, show you, and some of my
past projects will blatantly scream...*wink.* Don't be frustrated if your first project doesn't come out the way you want it. All good things take practice, and you may make
several knives--or several dozen--before you make one you really, truly have no beefs about. But it's good fun, too. You can do it. Don't worry.
Okay, so you still want to make a knife. Read on.
Image Notes
1. I took this picture in the woods beside my house. Looks nice, huh?
step 1: First thing's first...design the blade!
The design of your knife is the single most important element of its construction. In my designs I try to find the best compromise between functionality and looks. I abhor
inefficient fantasy designs and have a profound dislike of Persian-style blades--you know, the kind shaped like a banana--but if you like a specific design, go for it.
First, plot out the blade and handle shape on graph paper. Try to get it as close to actual-size as you can. The less changing you have to do to the design once it's on the
steel, the better.
Now you need to decide how to attach the handle to the blade. There are three common methods of doing this: a full tang, a partial tang, or a through-tang. A full tang
has the same profile as the handle of the knife, and the meat of the handle is formed by two slabs of wood (scales) to either side of the tang; most good knives are made
this way. The knife I'm making here is a full tang knife. A partial tang is the most inconspicuous of the three and, in my view, the hardest to make. In this design the tang
is a rod that protrudes back from the blade and is completely hidden inside the handle, secured with a rivet or two. Japanese swords and sushi knives are made this way,
though the latter is secured with a cuff rather than rivets. A through-tang knife is similar to the partial tang except that the tang extends all the way through the handle to
be secured by a nut or by peening on the other end. Ka-bars and most turned-handled knives are made this way. Choose whatever best suits your project. There is
plenty of info on the web if you're not going to make a full-tang knife, though I recommend it for a first project.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-Knife/
823274779.013.png 823274779.014.png
step 2: Ingredients: choosing and finding materials for your knife
Next: choosing and obtaining materials. You'll want a carbon steel (NOT stainless), such as 01, which I used for this knife. There are other steels out there, but 01 is good
to start with. You don't want stainess steel because it has to be sub-zero tempered, which is bad. It also doesn't make as fine a blade. You'll want a slab or bar about 1/8
to 1/4 of an inch. I believe my steel was 3/16. You'll also need handle material, such as wood, micarta, bone, leather, cord, stone, gem, another type of metal, mammoth
ivory, or meteorite. Believe me, they've all been done. For my project I decided to use Purpleheart wood. It's my favorite type because it's unique, beautiful, tough, and
above all, cheap. You'll also need pins or rivets and epoxy to attach the handle. I used a brass rod for my pins.
The first picture is me with my chosen slab of steel. Notice the missing sock--this is vital to the success of the project ;-). I got it from a Northern Tool Supply, an industrial
metal and tool supply warehouse a few miles from me. Finding steel was one of the most difficult parts of this project for me, because I live in a pretty rural (Maine is
pretty much all rural) area and there's not a whole lot around. You can salvage steel from saw blades and the leaf springs from cars of you can't find a commercial dealer,
but chances are you can.
The second picture is of the Purpleheart wood, which I got at Atlantic Hardwoods, a flooring and marine hardwood supplier in Portland. Again, there's probably something
near you, just try the yellow pages or the internet.
After you have the steel, trace your design onto it in permanent marker. You'll notice that my tracing is a little bit bigger than my design--I had to elongate the handle to fit
my hand, and the blade just didn't look good unless it was a good inch longer than the grip. Now you're ready for the next step.
Image Notes
1. 01 carbon tool steel. A great choice for beginning or established knife
makers.
2. No sock
3. Sock
Image Notes
1. Purpleheart wood. I use it in most of my projects to varying degrees. Careful,
though, because it splinters and has a pretty bad blunting effect on tools.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-Knife/
823274779.015.png 823274779.001.png 823274779.002.png 823274779.003.png
Image Notes
1. The blade design transfered directly to the steel. The knife will be ground
out from this outline.
step 3: Rough cutting the blade--the easy part
Now it's time for the really fun part. Here's what you're going to need:
A hacksaw or jeweler's saw and several blades
An angle grinder with a hard wheel and flap wheel
Files (if necessary)
A drill
A vise
Necessary protection (glasses, gloves, jacket if you don't like sparks)
And a steady hand
Step one: cut out your blade using a hacksaw or jeweler's saw. If you're using a thick piece of steel, go with the stiffer hacksaw. I recommend standard, medium-to-fine
blades. If you're using a relatively thin piece of metal and you have a jeweler's saw, you can cut out a pretty close profile which will save you some grinding in the next
step. I just cut out a rectangle around my basic shape--using a hard, steel-cutting wheel, you should be able to grind through the excess pretty quickly. See picture one,
below.
Step two: slap that blank in a vise and start grinding. Use the hard wheel on your angle grinder to cut away excess metal from the profile of the blade. This should be
pretty self-explanatory; you're just cutting out a shape. The different colors that appear along the edge are just products of low-level heat changes in the steel, and won't
compromise its strength or finished look. Remember those colors, though, you'll be using them to your advantage later when you heat-treat the knife. See picture two
below for an action shot, and three for the completely cut-out blade.
Step three: grinding the edge. Use the flap wheel (the one with flaps of coarse sandpaper) to gently and EVENLY grind a slope to the middle of the steel. Don't go past
the center, because that will give your edge a dip--and you don't want that. Picture four is of the job at this step, half done. Grind the other edge the same way, until the
edge becomes an edge. If you think you're starting to go too far, STOP! Be patient. This is possibly the most delicate step in rough-shaping the blade. Work the edge
evenly, so that it's straight and consistent. See below, picture five, for the finished shape.
Step four: drill rivet holes. Make sure you use a drill bit the same diameter as the rod or rivet you plan to use. They can go anywhere and be any number, so get creative.
Sorry, I don't have a picture of this...if you can't figure it out, try making something simpler, like a birdhouse.
Image Notes
1. I used a round diamond blade for the first section of this cutting, which I don't
Image Notes
1. Usually you hold these things with both hands, but I was taking a picture.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-Knife/
823274779.004.png 823274779.005.png 823274779.006.png 823274779.007.png
recommend. It took me a couple episodes of South Park (a good measure of time
for on-and-off work, with the TV playing in the other room) to get this far. I later
reverted to regular hacksaw blades.
2. This thing up here is an electric mandolin. Maybe that'll be in another
Instructable.
Image Notes
1. Half the edge after it's been cut. Don't go too far!
Image Notes
1. Nice shape, but it needs some finishing.
step 4: Finishing the blade (first time, no joke)
Before heat-treating the blade you'll need to finish it. Of course it's fitting that after the most fun part of the process, you need to endure the least fun part. Nevertheless,
it's important. Why? To ensure you put out a quality product, of course. I also decided to add some simple filework to my blade during this step. To finish the blade, you'll
need:
Sandpaper, grits ranging from 60 to 220. I use a sanding wheel and power drill to save time.
A sanding block, even if you're also using a sanding wheel.
Time. Lots and lots of time.
This step is fairly self-explanatory. The first picture below is early in the process, sanding with a rigid sanding wheel. These things aren't necessary, but I do recommend
them for rough finishing. I saw 'em at the hardware store and thought I'd give them a spin. Ha-ha, I made a pun.
Work through through the successively finer grits until you reach about 220 grit. There's definitely a technique here--first of all, don't skimp. You'll regret scratches you
don't take the time to remove during this step. Always work each successive grit perpendicular to the direction you worked the one before; so if you sand the blade
lengthwise with one grit, sand across the blade for the next grit. Also, be sure to cover all the visible surfaces of the blade. Give special attention to the ricasso (the area
where the blade meets the handle) and the spine/handle edges of the knife. It's better to sand part of the blade that will be covered than to leave a visible part of it
unfinished. I'm sorry I don't have more pictures of this bit, but it's boring and I guess I forgot to take them.
Now, for that filework. You can see the process in the last three pictures below. First, choose your design and mark out even spaces on the part of the blade to be
worked. Second, draw the pattern on the knife, using the marks as guides. I chose a pretty simple zig-zag pattern, but you can see a couple other possibilities on picture
three. There are literally infinite possibilities for filework, but I'd try a very simple one on a first project. Bad filework can ruin an otherwise good knife. In the last picture
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-Knife/
823274779.008.png 823274779.009.png 823274779.010.png 823274779.011.png

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika:

Zgłoś jeśli naruszono regulamin