kid_STORAGE_CABINET.pdf

STORAGE CABINET

This storage shelf is designed to be as versatile as possible. In other

words, it holds just about anything that is likely to end up scattered all

over the floor in your child's room. Its tall spaces hold oversize

children's books, school notebooks, stacks of games or stuffed

animals. The smaller spaces are proportioned for tapes, CDs, art

supplies and the odds and ends that inevitably clutter a child's room. It

also functions as a night stand because it falls at the right height for a

lamp, radio and alarm clock.

The construction of this piece employs the same materials as the

child's bed–

Making Case Parts

Use a circular saw and 40-tooth thin-kerf, crosscut blade to

cut the plywood case parts to size. When plywood is cut,

there is a tendency for the face veneer to chip where the

blade exits the cut. You can prevent this chipping by using

two techniques. First, clamp a straight board across the

panel stock to guide the saw. Next, advance the saw

slowly, and keep the saw base tight to the guide strip

(Photo 1) .

1--Clamp a straightedge across the workpiece and

crosscut it with a circular saw. Support the piece that

will be cut off.

Set up the router with a straight bit and an accessory edge

guide. Adjust the router to cut the rabbet at the back edge

of the case sides. Test the setup on a piece of scrap stock.

Then clamp a case side to the workbench and cut the

(Photo 2) . If you use a router bit with a 1/2-in.-dia. shank,

you can make the cut in one pass. If you are using a bit

with a 1/4-in.-dia. shank, you should take two passes to cut

the rabbet.

2--Use a straight bit in the router and the edge guide

attachment to cut a rabbet along the back edge of

the side panels.

Mark the locations of plate joint slots in the cabinet sides,

shelves and partitions. Note that the middle shelf has

staggered slots on the top and bottom surfaces. It's

important to stagger the slots to prevent too much wood

from being removed in one location.

3--Clamp a fence across a case side, and use it to

guide the plate joiner when cutting the plate slots for

the shelves.

Clamp a guide block to the case sides and shelves to help

locate the plate joiner when cutting the slots in the center of

a panel (Photo 3) . When you cut the slots in the sides for

the case top and bottom, you can use the fence on the

plate joiner to register the cuts (Photo 4) .

4--Clamp the case sides upright in a vise and cut

the slots along their upper edge using the plate

joiner's fence for alignment.

Use the workbench top as the registration surface when

you cut the slots in the ends of the shelves and partitions.

Firmly hold both the plate joiner and the workpiece to the

benchtop when making the cut. Keep your fingers well

away from the cutting area to avoid accidents.

Countersink pilot holes through the top, bottom and middle

shelves.

5--The short partitions are attached to the panel

above with screws, so there is no need to use glue

with the joining plates.

Case Assembly

Begin the case assembly process by joining the case top to

the short partitions (Photo 5) . Install the joining plates in

their slots and position the short partitions over them. You

do not need to use glue on these plates because they

merely locate the joint. Turn the assembly over, and bore

pilot holes in the partitions (Photo 6) . Then screw the

partitions to the top panel.

6--Bore and countersink pilot holes into the top of

the short partitions. Then drive screws to fasten the

partitions and panel.

Spread glue in the joining plate slots for the joints between

the short partitions and the middle shelf. Place the middle

shelf over the short partitions, bore pilot holes into the

partition ends and fasten the shelf and partitions with

screws.

Next, install joining plates in the slots for the joints between

the bottom and the tall partitions. Assemble the partitions

and bottom, and fasten them with screws. Spread glue in

the slots and on the plates for the joints between the tall

partitions and the middle shelf. Install the plates, clamp the

assembly together and drive 6d finish nails through the

middle shelf into the short partitions (Photo 7) .

Spread glue in the slots and on the joining plates for the

joints between the middle shelf, top and bottom, and the

case sides. Assemble the parts, and drive 6d finish nails to

fasten the joints.

7--Drive finish nails at an angle through the tall

partitions and the middle shelf, and into the short

partitions.

Rip and crosscut the edge strips for the top. Apply glue to

them, clamp them to the top, and nail the parts together.

Apply poplar facing to the front of the sides, top, bottom,

middle shelf and partitions. Start with the case sides, then

apply the facing to the horizontal parts and finally to the

partitions. Note that the strips overhang the plywood panels

by 1/16 in. on each edge except for the case top, which has

a 1/8-in. overhang.

8--Use a chisel to cut a small clearance notch in the

top corner of each vertical facing strip. Cut in toward

the case.

Use a chisel to cut the notch at the top outside corners of

the facing strips (Photo 8) .

Place the top panel upside down on the work surface, and

invert the case assembly over it. Bore pilot holes, and

screw the top to the assembly. Complete the case by

nailing on the back.

9--Use a putty knife to press drying filler into the nail

holes. Slightly mound the filler, and let it harden

before sanding.

Rip and crosscut the pieces of poplar and plywood for the

toe kick assembly. Clamp the assembly together, and join

the parts with glue and 6d finish nails. Clamp the toe kick

assembly to the bottom. Then bore and countersink pilot

holes through the cleats into the bottom. Screw the cleats

to the bottom.

10--Sand the surfaces carefully using a random-

orbit block sander. This tool is small enough to fit

into the compartments.

Finishing

Set the heads of all finish nails below the surface. Then fill

the holes with a wood filler (Photo 9) . Mound the filler

slightly over each hole since it shrinks when it dries. Sand

the cabinet, inside and out, with 120-, 150- and 180-grit

sandpaper (Photo 10) . Remove all sanding dust before

moving to the next finer grit of sandpaper. Carefully ease all

sharp edges with a sanding block (Photo 11) . Move the

sanding block perpendicular to the wood's edge to achieve

a crisp bevel. Remove all sanding dust by vacuuming and

using a tack cloth before applying the primer.

11--Put a small, crisp bevel on the facing and edge

strips with a sanding block that you move

perpendicular to the strip's edge.

Use a small-diameter, smooth-surface paint roller to apply a

coat of latex primer to all cabinet surfaces (Photo 12) . Note

that the long-handled roller used here has one end that is

somewhat shaggy. This allows you to apply paint right to

the corner. When the primer is dry, sand it lightly with 220-

grit sandpaper. Finish the project by applying two coats of

latex semi-gloss paint for an attractive finish.

12--A small-diameter roller is used to apply the

primer and top coat. The square end of the roller

allows it to paint into corners.

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