NiagaraManual.pdf

Niagara

U.S. BRIG

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

SCALE: 3/16" = 1' (1:64)

Overall length: 43"

Overall height: 27"

Overall width: 11"

MODEL SHIPWAYS KIT NO. MS2240

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

HIST OR

ORY

The original Niagara was Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry's second flagship during the Battle of Lake Erie on

September 10, 1813. His victory over the British secured the Northwest Territory, opened supply lines, and lifted

the nation's morale.

Six ships in Perry's fleet of nine, including Niagara , were built in Erie, Pennsylvania. To accomplish the task,

shipwrights, block makers, caulkers, boatbuilders, and laborers were recruited from Pittsburgh, Philadelphia,

and elsewhere. Material was brought in from all over the country.

The Navy assigned ship master Daniel Dobbins of Erie to direct construction until experienced builders arrived.

In February 1813, Noah Brown, a New York shipbuilder, was hired to complete the construction. He also

designed two of the four schooners and the brigs, Niagara and Lawrence .

On March 27, 1813, Commodore Perry took command of the American naval forces at Lake Erie. When the

famous battle began six months later, Perry was aboard Lawrence , his flagship. He was soon engaged in a tremen-

dous battle with the main strength of the British line. However, for more than two hours Commander Jessie

Elliott kept Niagara well removed from the action, content to lob shots at his adversary with two 12-pound long

guns. After two-and-three-quarter hours of murderous gunfire, Lawrence was "one confused heap of horrid

ruins." Perry gave up his flagship and was rowed to Niagara where he continued to attack. Two-and-a-half hours

later, Perry returned to the shattered Lawrence , went to his cabin, and penned a quick message to General

Harrison: "We have met the enemy and they are ours — Two Ships, two Brigs, one Schooner and one Sloop."

After the War of 1812, Niagara served as a station ship in Erie until 1820. Then she was scuttled in Misery Bay.

For the centennial of the battle, Erie citizens raised the hulk and rebuilt the ship. Another restoration began in

1931, but the Depression slowed progress. The hull was completed in 1943 and masts installed in 1963. By 1988,

Niagara was again deteriorating. The Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission hired Melbourne

Smith, a world-famous naval architect, to redesign the entire ship and direct construction. Niagara was

relaunched on the battle's 175th anniversary. Only a few original timbers remain in the hull, and these are used

in non-structural locations. The reconstruction was completed in 1990.

The new Niagara hull length is 123 feet with a 32 foot beam. Draft at the stern is 10 feet 3 inches, and she dis-

places 297 tons. The tons burthen (old measure) is 492 60/95 tons. In 1813, the ship carried 155 officers and men,

and was armed with eighteen 32-pounder carronades and two long 12-pounders. Today, 40 professionals and

volunteers man Niagara and four replica carronades comprise her ordnance.

Niagara is operated by the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission, with the assistance of the

Flagship Niagara League, a non-profit associate group. The ship sails daily and serves as the Commonwealth's

goodwill ambassador. She is the centerpiece of a new maritime museum in Erie, Pennsylvania.

For more history on Niagara and the War of 1812, refer to the bibliography.

Photo Courtesy of

Melbourne Smith

HIST

T ABLE OF

CONTENTS

Brief History 2

Introduction and Credits

14. Eyebolts and Cleats

15. Cannons

Before You Begin

16. Rudder and Tiller

Tools Needed To Start Construction

17. Boat Davits and Slides

How to Work With Plans And Parts

6,7

18. Ship's Boats

22,23

Painting and Staining The Model

8,9

19. Ship's Name

20. Hammock Rails and Stanchions

Stage 1: Framing the Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull

21. Channels

1. Bending Wood

22. Sweeps

2. Center Keel Assembly

3. Installing the Keel, Stem, and Sternpost

Stage 6: Mast and Spar Construction 24

1. Shaping and Tapering Masts and Spars 24

2. Building and Installing the Masts

4. Cutting the Rabbet

5. Installing the Bulkheads

10,11

24,25

6. Installing the Stern Blocks

and Transom Framing 12

7. Installing the Bow Filler Blocks 12

8. Covering the Mast Slots 12

9. Installing the Waterway and Planksheer 12

10. Installing the Knightheads

and Forward Timberheads

3. Building and Installing the Bowsprit,

Jibboom, Flying Jibboom, Spritsail Yard,

and Dolphin Striker

25,26

4. Building the Yards

5. Building the Spanker Gaff and Boom

Stage 7: General Rigging and Sailmaking

27,28

11. Installing the Main Rail and Chock Rail

1. Rigging Options

12. Framing Around the Gunports and Sweep Ports

2. Rigging Plans

3. Rigging Line and Block Sizes

Stage 2: Planking the Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull 14

1. Getting Started 14

2. Planking Battens and Belts 14

3. Planking Butts 15

4. Spiling 15

5. Fastening the Planks

4. Treating the Lines

5. Belaying Pins, Cleats and Their Lines

6. Rigging Tools

7. Blocks, Hearts, Bullseyes, and Deadeyes

8. Sailmaking

29,30

9. Rigging the Model with No Sails or Furled Sails

6. Outer Hull Planking

16,17

7. Ceiling (Inboard) Planking

Stage 8: Installing Standing Rigging 31

1. Shrouds 31

2. Backstays 31,32

3. Fore and Aft Stays 32,33

4. Bowsprit Rigging 33

5. Footropes, Fixed Lifts, and Cranelines 34

8. Deck Planking

Stage 3: Completing the Basic Hull Stucture

Stage 4: Mounting the Hull 19

1. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals 19

2. Launching Ways

Stage 9: Installing Sails and Running Rigging 34

1. Fore Staysails (Head Sails) 34,35

2. Main Staysails 35

3. Spanker 35

4. Fore and Main Course Yards 36

5. Fore and Main Topsail Yards 36

6. Fore and Main Topgallant and Royal Yards

Stage 5: Adding Hull Details 19

1. Locating Deck Fittings and Structures 19

2. Deck Structures 19

3. Hatches, and Grating 20

4. Boarding Ladders 20

5. Galley Stack 20

6. Capstan 20

7. Fife Rails and Riding Bitts 20

8. Pin Rails 20

9. Bilge Pumps 20

10. Scuppers 20

11. Catheads and Anchors 21

12. Mooring Cleats

7. Spritsail Yard

8. Miscellaneous Rigging

Final Touches

Bibliography

Scale Conversion Table

Rigging Line Diameters

Modeler's Log

39,40

13. Hawse Pipes

ABLE OF

Instruction Manual

U.S. Brig

Niagara

1813 –1990

Plans and Instructions

by Ben Lankford

Model by William Hitchcock

Model Shipways developed the Niagara kit in 1996. Plans are based on the 1990 reconstruction drawings,

research sketches, and specifications prepared and supplied by the designer, naval architect Melbourne

Smith, International Historical Watercraft Society, Annapolis, Maryland. Many as-built features deviating

from the plans are incorporated. These are based on visits to the brig and photographs. In addition to pro-

viding invaluable design information, Smith reviewed Model Shipways' plans for accuracy.

Modern features, such as engines and a housing over the exhaust system, are not included to maintain

Niagara's 1813 configuration.

Photo Courtesy

of Melbourne Smith

Model Shipways, A Division of Model Expo, Inc.

Hollywood, FL 33020

Before You Begin

Niagara is a beautiful, interesting ship and makes a splendid model. Assembling the plank-on-bulkhead hull develops

an understanding of how real ships are built, while laser-cut parts assure an accurate shape. The kit contains more than

150 laser-cut wood parts.

Although britannia, brass, and wood fittings facilitate construction, many require final finishing prior to installation.

This is especially true for the britannia castings and is discussed later.

Take your time building this model. It has a fair amount of detail and small parts. Furthermore, the rigging is fairly compli-

cated. Complete one stage before moving to the next. When things go awry, consider doing them over. A second attempt

usually surpasses the first. Practice does make perfect.

Tools Needed To Start Construction

The following items are recommended. Those who have modeled before may have their favorites.

A. Knives and Saws

1. Hobby knife

2. # 11 blades

3. Razor saw or jeweler’s saw

H. Sandpaper

1. Fine and medium grit

garnet or #100 to #200

aluminum oxide

2. #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper

Note: White or woodworker’s glue in yellow

or tan will suffice for most of the model.

Five-minute epoxy provides extra strength

for affixing fittings. Cyanoacrylates, such as

Jet, Flash, or Zap, produce quick adhesion.

For most applications, the medium viscosity,

gap-filling variety is best. The thin type is

recommended for filling a narrow crack and

tacking bulkheads to the keel or planking to

the bulkheads.

B. Files

1. Set of needle files

I. Sail cloth

Light weave cotton or linen cloth for

sails. Model Expo sells a suitable

cotton cloth.

C. Clamps

1. A few small C-clamps

2. Wooden spring-type clothes pins

(craft shops have small versions)

3. #16 and #33 rubber bands

J. Finishing

1. Paintbrushes

a. Fine point for details

b. 1/4” to 1/2” flat square for hull

D. Carving Tool s

Small woodcarving set, or individual

gouges and chisels for carving keel

rabbets, bow and stern filler blocks,

ship's boats, and tapering the stem

and rudder.

K. Supplies

1. Paints

2. Primer

3. Stains and varnish

4. White (polyvinyl acetate or PVA) or

woodworker’s glue (aliphatic resin)

5. Cyanoacrylates (generic name is

Super Glue)

6. Five-minute epoxy

7. Wood filler

E. Sharpening Stone

Keeps tools razor sharp.

F. Boring Tools

1. #60 to #80 miniature bits

2. 1/16”, 3/32”, and 1/8” bits

3. Pin vise

G. Miscellaneous

1. Tack hammer

2. Tweezers (a few)

3. Small, fine pointed scissors

4. Miniature pliers

a. round nose

b. flat nose

5. Small bench vise

6. Soldering iron or torch

a. solder

b. flux

7. Sewing thread for seizing

(other rigging in kit)

a. black

b. tan

8. Beeswax block

(for treating rigging lines)

9. 1/2” or 3/4” wide masking tape

10. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire

and strip metal)

BELFRY AT BOW

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