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SOUTH BOHEMIA
163
South Bohemia
For many travellers, the lakes, forests and fields of South Bohemia whiz by in a cinematic
scroll from the window of a bus from Prague to Český Krumlov. And while the region’s pam-
pered main attraction will steal your heart, be ready to share your devotion with busloads
of other suitors. Stroll the medieval maze of Český Krumlov, but also seek out tranquillity
and history elsewhere in South Bohemia.
High in the forests of the Šumava mountains, hiking and mountain biking tracks link
comfortable
pension
s and alpine lodges where hush comes as standard. Near the Austrian
border, the melancholy serenity of Slavonice almost demands you whisper. And when things
get too relaxed, head to the whisper-free beer halls of České Budějovice. Don’t expect tran-
quillity though, but remember it’s not good to drink on your own anyway.
After a few beers with the locals, bring history to life in the chateaux dotting every corner
of the region, from the delicate lakeside confection at Červená Lhota, to the imposing archi-
tectural diversity of Jindřichův Hradec. Enduring traces of Austrian and German culture linger,
blending with the legacy of earlier eras. Get pleasantly lost amidst the narrow lanes radiating
from the photogenic main square of Tábor, the imposing bastion of the unyielding Hussites,
or take a leisurely boat cruise to discover the spectacular twin castles of Zvíkov and Orlik.
All the while, give yourself a round of applause and a glass of Budvar lager for not set-
tling for that hurried day trip from Český Krumlov. This spectacular and idiosyncratic region
demands much more of your attention.
HIGHLIGHTS
Climb the castle tower in
Český Krumlov
(p172) for stunning views of Central Europe’s
prettiest town
Bring history to life in the former Hussite bas-
tion of
Tábor
( p190 )
Immerse yourself in the hushed Renaissance
perfection of
Slavonice
( p198 )
Overcome castle overkill by getting active
in the stunning landscapes of the
Šumava
( p178 ) mountains
Imbibe the original Budweiser beer in
České
Budějovice
(p164), an energetic blue-collar
brewery town
Tábor
Šumava
National
Slavonice
Park
Àeské Budêjovice
Àeský Krumlov
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ČESKOBUDĚJOVICKO REGION •• České Budějovice
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National Parks & Trails
No other region of the Czech Republic offers
as many outdoor activities as South Bohemia.
Throughout the region are swathes of pro-
tected areas from the rugged wilderness of
the Šumava National Park to the Ťreboňsko
Protected Landscape Region. Between České
Budějovice and Český Krumlov are the rolling
forests of the Blanský Les Protected Landscape
Region. Good public transport and a com-
prehensive network of accommodation and
well-marked hiking and cycling tracks make it
easy to maximise your time. If you’re not keen
on getting around on two feet or two wheels,
then take to the water, either on the meander-
ing Vltava river, or on Lake Lipno, the Czech
Republic’s largest manmade body of water.
WATER SPORTS
Rafting and canoeing are most popular on
the Vltava river, with Český Krumlov (p173)
and Vyšši Brod (p182) the starting-off points.
Don’t expect roaring white-water though.
Most trips are exceedingly leisurely and ideal-
ly include a few stops at riverside pubs. Yacht-
ing, kiteboarding and windsurfing are all
available on Lake Lipno (p183).
ÀESKÉ BUDÊJOVICE
0
200 m
0
0.1 miles
A
B
C
D
To Police
Station (100m);
Budweiser
Budvar Brewery (3km);
To Brno (229km)
Prague (145km)
1
Nová
To Kolej Jihoàeské
19
univerzity (2km);
Pension U
výstavištê (5km);
37
25
8
42
34
6
ČESKOBUDĚJOVICKO
REGION
ČESKÉ BUDĚJOVICE
pop 95,000
As the birthplace of one of Europe’s finest
brews, in České Budějovice they take their
beer very, very seriously. The town’s original
brewery supplied the Holy Roman Emperor
back in the 13th century, and now the town’s
namesake Budvar lager (the original and au-
thentic Budweiser) goes head to frothy head
with Pilsner Urquell, from Plzeň to the west.
The town’s main square is one of the largest
in Europe; elegant arcades radiate to streets
filled with lively bars – the ideal spot to sample
the town’s amber gold. Near the river, urban
order is abandoned and the austere lines of
the main square dissolve in a charming laby-
rinth of narrow lanes and winding alleys. The
town’s industrial suburbs now sprawl across
the plains of South Bohemia, but its historical
heart retains the laid-back appeal of the simple
brewing town it used to be.
History
The marshy site, ideal for the defence of a me-
dieval fortress, was selected by King Přemysl
Otakar II in 1265 as a royal town and a bul-
wark against powerful local families.
Its ancient predecessor, the village of Budi-
vojovice, was at the present site of the church
of St Procopius & John the Baptist (kostel sv
Prokopa sv Jana Křtitele), north of the centre
in the suburb of Pražské sídliště.
By the 14th century České Budějovice was
the most powerful town in South Bohemia.
Its many fine Renaissance buildings testify
to its wealth from trade and silver mining. It
remained staunchly royalist and Catholic dur-
ing the Hussite Wars, though it was never at-
tacked by Hussite armies. The royal mint was
established here in the late 16th century.
27
9
23
36
32
11
15
1
Vlakové nádra¢í
Piaristické
13
Train Station
nám
33
5
41
20
14
40
nám Påemysla
21
7
43
Otaka
r
a II
24
2
2
39
3
28
10
46
45
31
26
Senová¢né
16
30
Pension Mottlová...........................
29
C3
nám
44
Penzion Barbara..............................
30
B2
18
35
HIKING
Hiking is best enjoyed in the Šumava National
Park (p178), which has many well-marked
trails leading to the most interesting areas of
the park. In the Ťreboňsko Protected Land-
scape Region (p176), hiking is concentrated
around the 15th-century fishponds stretching
from Ťrebon to Veselí nad Lužnicí. Another
popular hike is the summertime ascent of Kleť
(1083m) in the Blanský Les Protected Land-
scape Region (p175). There is good horse-
trekking around Český Krumlov (p174).
4
Penzión Centrum...........................
31
A2
Penzion Garni...............................(see 32)
17
EATING
12
38
Caffé Bar Piccolo............................
32
B2
29
Fresh Salad & Pizza........................(see 9)
Alešova
Indická (Gateway of India).............
33
D2
To Museum of Horse
22
Drawn Railway (300m);
pizza/grill........................................
34
A1
3
Hospital (400m)
Camping Grounds (2km)
Restaurant Beran............................
35
C2
U Tåi Sedláku.................................
36
A2
INFORMATION
Dominican Monastery....................
15
A2
Víno Z Panské................................
37
A1
Ceská Spoåitelna.....................................
1
B2
Iron Maiden Tower........................
16
A2
CTS Travel Agency & Àedok...................
2
B2
Mestský Dûm Kultury.....................
17
B3
DRINKING
Internet Café Babylon.............................
3
B2
Museum of South Bohemia............
18
B2
Cernej Velbloud.............................
38
C3
Jihoàeský Autoklub................................
4
C2
Plavecký Stadion..........................(see 21)
modrý dveåe..................................
39
A2
KB Bank.................................................
5
D2
Rabenštejn Tower...........................
19
A1
Potrefená Husa..............................
40
A2
KB Bank..................................................
6
A1
Samson's Fountain.........................
20
B2
Singer Pub.....................................
41
A2
Municipal Information Centre.................
7
A2
Sport BP.........................................
21
A2
Na Pûdé..................................................
8
B1
Town Hall......................................(see 7)
ENTERTAINMENT
Children's Theatre...........................
42
B1
CYCLING
The rolling hills and forests of South Bohe-
mia are tailor-made for cycling. Two most
popular routes are the Upper Vltava River
Valley Greenway from Hluboká Nad Vltavou
to Český Krumlov, and the Bohemia Lake
District Greenway from Jindřichův Hradec
to Ťrebon. Both are part of the Prague–
Vienna Greenways System, which is a web
of trails and country roads joining the Czech
and Austrian capitals (see www.praguevienna
greenways.org). A popular long distance
ride in the Šumava (p178) is the 240km long
‘Šumavská magistrála’ that traverses the park
west to east.
From July to August (Saturday and Sunday
only in June and September), special buses
with attached cycle trailers provide transport
around seven routes covering all of South
Bohemia (see www.cyklotrans.cz Czech and
German only). These routes also link with
bus and train stations in the region. Maps
outlining cycling day trips are available from
most tourist information offices.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
SLEEPING
Concert Hall & Church of St Anne..
43
B2
Armoury & Motorcycle Museum............
9
A2
AT Pension.....................................
22
B3
South Bohemian Theatre................
44
B2
4
Bishopric...............................................
10
A2
CKM Travel Agency.......................
23
D2
Black Tower..........................................
11
B2
Grand Hotel Zvon...........................
24
B2
TRANSPORT
Budvar Arena.......................................
12
A3
Hotel Bohemia................................
25
B1
Bus Station.....................................
45
D2
Cathedral of St Nicholas........................
13
B2
Hotel Dvoåak.................................
26
B2
Europcar.........................................
46
B2
Church of the Sacrifice of the Virgin...(see 15)
Hotel Klika.....................................
27
A2
Rekrea..........................................(see 46)
Conservatory Concert Hall....................
14
B2
Hotel Malý Pivovar.........................
28
B2
Taxi Stand....................................(see 23)
Orientation
From the adjacent bus and train stations, it’s
1km along Lannova třída to the town centre.
Parking is cheaper outside the old town.
Information
EMERGENCY
Jihočeský autoklub
(
%
386 356 566; Žižkova třída 13)
Offers motoring assistance.
Police station
(
%
974 221 111; Pražská 5) Has a sec-
tion for foreigners.
Prosperity continued until the Thirty
Years’ War, when a disastrous fire (in 1641)
destroyed half the town. The silver also began
to run out and the royal mint was closed.
České Budějovice only began to recover
with the establishment of a major school
in 1762 and a bishopric in 1785. Industry
arrived when the first railway train on the
continent travelled from here to Linz, Aus-
tria, in 1832.
After WWI the southern part of South Bo-
hemia was given to Czechoslovakia, although
more than half its population was German.
Though Germans and Czechs had coexisted
peacefully for centuries, after WWII all Ger-
mans were expelled from České Budějovice
in 1945.
INTERNET ACCESS
Both charge 60Kč per hour:
Internet Café Babylon
(5th fl, náměstí Přemysla
Otakara II 30;
h
10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 1-9pm Sun)
Na Půdě
(Krajinská 28;
h
8am-10pm)
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167
Sleeping
Accommodation can get tight in July and
August, so book in advance. Prices fluctuate
seasonally – these are high (summer) season
rates. In the low season discounts can be as
much as 25%.
Penzión Centrum
(
%
387 311 801; www.penzion
centrum.cz; Biskupská 130/3; s/d incl breakfast 900/1200Kč)
Huge rooms with satellite TV, queen-size
beds with crisp white linen, and thoroughly
professional staff all make this a top reader-
recommended spot near the main square.
Hotel Bohemia
(
%
386 354 500; www.bohemiacb.cz;
Hradební 20; s/d incl breakfast 1490/1790Kč;
p
)
Carved
wooden doors open to a restful interior in
two old burghers’ houses in a quiet street.
The restaurant comes recommended by the
tourist information office.
Other recommendations:
Penzion Barbara
(
%
736 426 472; www.penzion
barbara.cz; Siroká 15; s/d 500/1000Kč) A newish spot with
light and bright rooms above a cosy kavárna. Look for the
letters ‘BB’ on top of the building.
Penzion Garni
(
%
386 353 475; www.budweb.cz
/penzion-garni; Na Mlýnské stoce 7; s/d incl breakfast
800/950Kč;
p
) Located on quiet Mill Race Lane, the
Garni shares a building with Caffé Piccolo, a terrific spot for
espresso and hot chocolate.
LEFT LUGGAGE
There are left-luggage offices at the
bus station
(
h
7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-2pm Sat)
and the
train
station
(
h
5am-noon & 12.30-7pm).
AROUND THE OLD TOWN
The old town is surrounded by Mlýnská
stoka, the Malše river and extensive gardens
where the walls once stood. Only a few bits
of the Gothic fortifications remain, includ-
ing
Rabenštejn tower
(Rabenštejnská věž; cnr Hradební
& Panská; adult/concession 40/20Kč;
h
10am-6pm Mon-Fri,
9am-noon Sat)
, and the 15th-century
Iron Maiden
tower
(Železná pana; Zátkovo nábřeží)
, a crumbling
former prison.
Along Hroznová, on Piaristické náměstí,
is the
church of the Sacrifice of the Virgin
(kos-
tel Obětování Panny Marie) and a former
Dominican monastery
with a splendid pulpit.
Enter the church from the Gothic cloister.
Next door is a medieval
armoury
(zbrojnice)
that was also a salt warehouse; and the
South Bohemian Motorcycle museum
(Jihočeské
Motocyclové;
%
723 247 104; Piaristické náměstí; adult/
concession 40/20Kč;
h
10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
, which has
a fine collection of Czech Jawas and WWII
Harley-Davidsons.
Return up to Česká, turn right and follow
it to Radniční. Right into Biskupská takes
you past the 18th-century
bishopric
(biskupství;
admission free;
h
8am-6pm May-Sep)
. Enter through
a small gate in the wall.
Follow Zátkovo to dr Stejskala. Pass the
South Bohemian theatre
(Jihočeské divadlo) and
continue to JV Jirsíka. Right into Dukelská,
is the
museum of South Bohemia
(Jihočeské muzeum;
%
387 929 328; adult/concession 50/20Kč;
h
9am-12.30pm
& 1-5.30pm Tue-Sun)
, with an extensive collection
covering history, books, coins, weapons and
wildlife.
A small
museum of the Horse-Drawn Railway
(Památky koněspřežní železnice;
%
386 354 820; Mánesova
10;
h
9am-12.30pm & 1-5pm Tue-Sun)
is south of the
centre, near the Koh-i-noor factory – only for
horsey types and/or railway buffs.
MEDICAL SERVICES
24-hour pharmacy
(
%
387 873 103) At the hospital.
Hospital
(nemocnice;
%
387 871 111; B. Němcové 54)
BUDGET
Hostels
The
municipal information centre
(Městské Informarční
Centrum;
%
386 801 413; www.c-bude jovice.cz; náměstí
Přemysla Otakara II 2;
h
8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat,
10am-4pm Sun)
and
CKM Travel Agency
(
%
387 424
505; Lannova třída 63;
h
9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
, near the
train station, can arrange accommodation in
dormitories from 150Kč per person. All the
listed tourist offices can book private rooms
for about 300Kč.
Pension U výstaviště
(
%
387 240 148; trpakdl@email
.cz; U výzstaviště 17; r per person 270Kč;
p
)
The closest
thing to a travellers hostel, this student accom-
modation block is 30 minutes west of the city
centre on bus 1 (board outside the bus station).
Go to the fifth stop (U parku), and the
pension
is 100m along Čajkovského, on the right.
Kolej jihočeské univerzity
(
%
387 774 201; Student-
ská 13-19; d 440Kč;
h
Jul-Sep;
p
)
Another student
block, 2km west of the centre.
Pension Mottlová
(
%
386 357 135; Alešova 5; s/d
350/700Kč)
In a quiet street you’ll get a warm
welcome from both the hosts and their cocker
spaniel. Shared bathrooms only.
MONEY
Česká spořitelna
(cnr náměstí Přemysla Otakara II & U
Černé věže’) Changes money and has an ATM.
KB
(Krajinská 19) Changes money and has an ATM.
POST
Main post office
(Pražská 69) Open 24 hours. Another
branch on Senovážné náměstí.
TOURIST INFORMATION & TRAVEL
AGENCIES
Čedok
(
%
387 763 202; náměstí Přemysla Otakara II 39;
h
9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Bus and train tickets
and books accommodation.
CTS
(
%
386 360 543; 1st fl, náměstí Přemysla Otakara II
38;
h
8.45am-12.15pm & 12.45-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Stocks
maps and books accommodation.
Municipal Information Centre
(Městské Informarční
Centrum;
%
386 801 413; www.c-budejovice.cz; náměstí
Přemysla Otakara II 2;
h
8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat,
10am-4pm Sun) Books tickets, tours and accommodation.
TOP END
Hotel Klika
(
%
387 318 171; www.hotelklika.cz; Hroznová
25; s/d incl breakfast 1630/2300Kč)
A riverside location
sometimes let down by off-hand service, but
the modern rooms are light and airy, and
anywhere that integrates 14th-century walls
into their design is OK by us.
Hotel Malý Pivovar
(
%
386 360 471; www.maly
pivovar.cz; Karla IV 8-10; s/d incl breakfast 2300/3300Kč;
pna
)
With a cabinet of sports trophies
and sculptured leather sofas, the lobby resem-
bles a gentleman’s club. However the elegant
rooms will please both the men and the ladies,
and it’s just a short stroll to the cosy Budvarka
beer hall downstairs.
Hotel Dvořak
(
%
386 253 140; dvorakcb@genea
2000.cz; náměstí Přemysla Otakara II 36; s/d incl breakfast
2400/2900Kč;
na
)
Don’t be fooled by the
elegant façade: the Dvořak’s rooms are mod-
ern and clean but lacking in character. The
friendly staff and good-value last-minute
specials (up to 40% off ) still make this a
worthwhile standby.
Grand Hotel Zvon
(
%
387 311 384; www.hotel.zvon
.cz; náměstí Přemysla Otakara II 28; s/d 2500/3000Kč;
na
)
‘Since 1533’ says the sign but we’re sure the
city’s top hotel has been renovated since then.
The ritzy façade across three main square
buildings is let down by the standard rooms,
but the executive rooms (add a whopping
80% to listed prices) would be classy in any
town.
Sights & Activities
NÁMĚSTÍ PŘEMYSLA OTAKARA II
This eclectic jumble of arcaded buildings
centred on
Samson’s fountain
(Samsonova
kašna; 1727) is the broadest plaza in the Czech
Republic, spanning 133m. Among the archi-
tectural treats is the 1555 Renaissance
town hall
(radnice), which received a baroque face-lift
in 1731 from AE Martinelli. The allegorical
figures on the balustrade – Justice, Wisdom,
Courage and Prudence – are matched by an
exotic quartet of bronze gargoyles.
Off the square on U Černé věže is the
dominating, 72m Gothic-Renaissance
Black
tower
(Černé věž;
%
386 352 508; adult/concession 25/15Kč;
h
10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct)
, built in 1553. Climb
its 225 steps (yes, we counted them) for fine
views. The tower’s two bells – the Marta
(1723) and Budvar (1995; a gift from the
brewery) – are rung daily at noon.
Beside the tower is the
cathedral of St Nicholas
(katedrála sv Mikuláše), built as a church in
the 13th century, rebuilt in 1649 and made a
cathedral in 1784.
Camping
Stromovka Autocamp
(
%
387 203 597; tent/3-bed
bungalow 60/600Kč;
h
Apr-Oct;
p
)
Just past Dlouhá
Louka Autocamp, this has so-so bungalows
and ample tent space. Queues for the showers
can be long.
Motel Dlouhá Louka Autocamp
(
%
387 203 601;
www.dlouhalouka.cz; Stromovka 8; tent/s/d 65/600/1000Kč;
p
)
This motel and camp site is 2km south-
west of town (take bus 6 from in front of
Městský dům kultury). Camp from May to
September, or take a rather uninspiring motel
room year-round.
BUDVAR BREWERY
Touring the modern
Budvar brewery
(pivovar;
%
387 705 341; www.budweiser.cz; cnr Pražská & K Světlé;
adult/concession 100/50Kč;
h
9am-4pm)
with all its
sights, smells and science is less interesting
than product sampling in the city’s beer halls.
Nevertheless, a pilgrimage to the home of
Budvar, 3km north of the city (take bus 2), is
still mandatory. Book the 60-minute tour in
advance by phoning the brewery, or through
the tourist information office. Ask for the
English language tour.
Afterwards put your feet up in the attached
Budvar beer hall
(
h
10am-10pm)
.
MIDRANGE
Small private
pension
s are often a better deal
than hotels.
AT Pension
(
%
603 441 069; www.atpension.cz; Duke-
lská 15; s/d incl breakfast 550/900Kč;
p
)
Don’t hold
your breath for stunning (or even late-20th-
century) décor, but this convenient spot is
mighty friendly with mighty big breakfasts.
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Eating
CAFÉS
Fresh Salad & Pizza
(Hroznová 21; pizza 100Kč & salads
60Kč)
Have a healthy lunch at this spot near
the Motorcycle museum. Add extra horse-
power to your jerk chicken or couscous and
salmon salads with one of eight different
dressings.
Caffé Bar Piccolo
(Na Mlýnské stoce 9;
h
7.30am-7pm
Mon-Thu, 7.30am-10pm Fri & Sat)
Down by the old
Mill Race this friendly spot serves up bracing
coffee and decadent hot chocolate.
Getting There & Away
BUS
From České Budějovice, direct buses
(
%
386
354 444) go to Prague Roztyly (142Kč, three
hours), Jihlava (90Kč, 2½ hours), Tábor
(56Kč, one hour) and Český Krumlov (28Kč,
50 minutes).
AROUND ČESKÉ BUDĚJOVICE
Trocnov
The birthplace of Hussite hero Jan Žižka is
12km southeast of České Budějovice and has
a small
museum
(
%
387 995 235; www.pamatnikjz.cz;
adult/concession 30/15Kč;
h
9am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Sep)
dedicated to him. From České Budějovice there
are at least six daily buses (15Kč, 28 minutes).
Potrefená Husa
(Česká 66)
CB’s bright young
things come out to play at this spot owned by
Prague’s Staropramen brewery. With tasty bar
snacks, Belgian beers, and a summer terrace
overlooking the water, the burghers of Budvar
might be a tad concerned at the enemy in
their midst.
CLUBS
Černej velbloud
(
%
728 725 419; www.velbloud.info;
U tří lvů 4;
h
10am-midnight Mon-Fri, 3pm-midnight Sat
& Sun)
One half is a cruisy
kavárna
with oc-
casional live music and eclectic snacks, and
the other half a camel-bedecked (
velbloud
means ‘camel’) unpretentious venue with
lots of interesting sounds. In any week you’ll
hear anything from old-school ska to drum
’n’ bass.
modrý dveře
(
%
386 359 958; Biskupská 1;
h
10am-
midnight)
By day, modrý dveře is a welcoming
bar/café with vintage pictures of US singer
and Rat Pack member, Frank Sinatra. At dusk
the lights dim for regular jazz piano gigs on
Wednesdays (from 7pm) and live blues and
jazz on Thursdays (from 8pm). Tell them
Frank sent you.
Entertainment
DRAMA, CLASSICAL MUSIC & CINEMA
South Bohemian theatre
(Jihočeské divadlo;
%
386 356
643; www.jihoceskedivadlo.cz; dr Stejskala 23)
The city’s
main theatre presents plays (usually in Czech),
operas and concerts.
Children’s theatre
(Malé divadlo;
%
386 352 508;
Hradební 18)
Puppets and pantomime.
Chamber Philharmonic Orchestra of South Bo-
hemia
(
%
386 353 561; www.music-cb.cz; Kněžská 6)
Performances take place in the church of St
Anne.
Conservatory
(konzervatoř;
%
386 110 410; Kanov-
nická 22)
This Stalinist shoebox hosts classical
music performances.
Cinestar
(
%
385 799 999; www.cinestar.cz in Czech;
Obchidní Centrum Čtyři Dvory)
One kilometre west of
the centre, this multiplex shows Hollywood’s
latest (90Kč).
TRAIN
There are fast, direct trains (
%
387 854 361)
to Plzeň (162Kč, two hours), Tábor (88Kč, one
hour), Prague (204Kč, 2½ hours) and Jihlava
(162Kč, 2½ hours).
Twice a day there are trains to and from
Linz, Austria (2¼ hours, 125km). Three times
daily trains go to Linz with a change at the
border stations (Horní Dvořiště and Sum-
merau).
Trains between Prague and Vienna connect
at České Velenice, 50km southeast of České
Budějovice. Two daily trains run to and from
Vienna (Franz-Josefsbahnhof ) with a change
in Gmünd.
Getting Around
The city is well connected by bus (8Kč). The
main
taxi stand
(
%
800 141 516; Lannova 1)
is by the
train station.
To rent a car, see
Čedok
or
Europcar/Rekrea
(
%
387 312 290; Široká 12;
h
9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
.
Bikes (230Kč per day), rafts (650Kč per
day) and canoes (180Kč per day) can be hired
at
Sport BP
(
%
387 318 439; Sokolovský ostrov 1;
h
9am-
noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat)
. Expect to pay a
1500Kč deposit.
SHOCart GeoClub’s
Českobudějovicko
(1:75,000) map shows local cycle routes.
Holašovice
South Bohemia is well known for its ornate,
19th-century ‘folk baroque’ country houses
and barns. Some of the best examples are in
the tiny village of
Holašovice
(www.holasovice.cz,
in Czech)
, a Unesco World Heritage Site 15km
west of České Budějovice.
Traditionally, holidays and festivals were
celebrated in the large square complete with
a pond and chapel, and each spring maypoles
are still erected in many villages to celebrate
the end of winter. There are four buses daily
from České Budějovice (15Kč, 30 minutes).
Kratochvíle
This attractive Renaissance
chateau
(
%
388 324
380; tours in Czech/English 60/120Kč;
h
9am-5pm Tue-Sun
Jun-Aug, to 4.15pm May & Sep, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun Apr &
Oct)
was completed in 1589 for the Rožmberk
family and is decorated inside with stucco
reliefs and murals based on classical myth-
ology. Kratochvíle is also home to an interest-
ing
museum of Animated Film
, with examples
from notable Czech producers like Jiří Trnka
and Hermína Týrlová.
Take a bus to Netolice from České Budějovice
(28Kč, 40 minutes) or Prachatice (20Kč, 25
minutes); walk the remaining 1.5km.
RESTAURANTS
Try the local carp from nearby Třeboň.
pizza/grill
(Panská 17; pizzas 100Kč;
h
closed Sun)
Just
maybe where the phrase ‘hole-in-the-wall’
came from, pizza/grill fits a wood-fired oven, a
vintage espresso machine, and seating for five
diners into a tiny space. Grab takeaway
pivo
’n’ pizza and dine
al fresco
.
U Tři Sedláku
(
%
387 222 303; Hroznová 488; mains
100-160Kč)
Locals celebrate that nothing much
has changed at U Tři Sedláku since it opened
in 1897. Tasty meaty dishes go with the Pilsner
Urquell constantly being shuffled to busy
tables.
Indická (Gateway of India)
(
%
386 359 355; 1st fl,
Chelčického 11; mains 100-150Kč;
h
closed Sun)
From
Chennai to České comes respite for travellers
wanting something different. Request spicy
because they’re used to dealing with timid
Czech palates.
Víno z Panské
(
%
387 318 511; Panská 14; mains 110-
170Kč;
h
closed Sun)
If you’re feeling all
pivo’
d
out, there’s a good selection of wines in this
relaxed restaurant in the old town’s Gothic
section. The best wines are only available by
the bottle so bring some friends.
Restaurant Beran
(
%
386 359 559; Žižkova 3; mains
100-250Kč)
Follow the cast-iron goat’s head
above the door, into the eclectic interior with
a 2m-tall model of the Leaning Tower of
Pisa. Beran is very popular with locals who
jam-pack this cellar bar/restaurant for Czech,
Italian and Mexican food.
Drinking
PUBS
Singer Pub
(Česká 55)
With Czech and Irish beers,
and potent cocktails, don’t be surprised if you
get the urge to rustle up something on the
Singer sewing machines on every table. If not,
challenge the regulars to a game of
foosball
with a soundtrack of nicely noisy rock.
JAN ŽIŽKA
Hussite Count Jan Žižka was born in Trocnov, just outside České Budějovice, in 1376. He spent
his youth at King Wenceslas IV’s court and fought as a mercenary in Poland, but returned to the
Czech kingdom at the beginning of the Reformation and became the leader of the Taborites
(p190). His military genius was responsible for all of the Hussite victories, from the 1420 Battle
of Žižkov onwards. After losing both eyes in two separate battles, Žižka eventually died of the
plague in 1424.
Žižka’s army was highly organised and was the first to use a system of wagons with mounted
artillery – the earliest tanks in history. These vehicles allowed him to choose where to draw up
position, taking the initiative away from the crusaders and making them fight where he wanted.
The technique proved almost invincible.
The Hussites successfully saw off their enemies for a decade following Žižka’s death, but
were defeated by a combined army of the rival Hussite faction of the Utraquists and the Holy
Roman Empire in 1434. Surprisingly, Žižka’s invention was not incorporated into other armies
until Sweden’s King Gustavus II Adolphus adopted it two centuries later.
SPORT
Budvar Arena
(
%
386 107 111; www.hokejcb.cz; FA Gerst-
nera;
h
Sep-Apr)
Ice hockey matches are staged
here. Contact the tourist information office
for details.
Plavecký Stadion
(
%
387 315 784;
h
10am-8pm)
This sports hall has swimming pools and
saunas open to the public.
170
ČESKOBUDĚJOVICKO REGION •• Hluboká Nad Vltavou
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
ČESKOBUDĚJOVICKO REGION •• Český Krumlov
171
HLUBOKÁ NAD VLTAVOU
pop 4800
Crowned with a stunning chateau, this little
village draws visitors from across the country.
Most tourists depart after seeing the castle,
making Hluboká a pleasant place to stay if ac-
commodation is tight in České Budějovice.
Information
Česká spořitelna
(Masarykovo 38)
changes money
and has an ATM.
The
tourist
information centre
(
%
387 966 164;
www.hluboka.cz; Masarykovo 35;
h
9am-6pm)
publishes
a useful map and has internet access for 1Kč
per minute.
Sights
A crow pecking the eyes from a Turk’s head,
the grisly crest of the Schwarzenberg family,
may be the recurrent motif in the décor of the
Hluboká chateau
(
%
387 843 911; www.zamekhluboka
.cz in Czech;
h
9am-6pm Jul & Aug, 9am-5pm Tue-Sun
May-Jun, 9am-4.30pm Apr, Sep & Oct)
but this grisly
image is totally at odds with the building’s
overt romanticism.
Built by the Přemysl rulers in the latter
half of the 13th century, Hluboká was taken
from the Protestant Malovec family in 1662
for supporting an anti-Hapsburg rebellion,
and sold to the Bavarian Schwarzenbergs.
Two centuries later, they gave the chateau
the English-Tudor, Gothic-style face it wears
today, modelling its exterior on Britain’s
Windsor Castle. Crowned with crenellations
and surrounded by a dainty garden, Hluboká
is too prissy for some, but this remains the
second-most visited chateau in Bohemia after
Karlštejn, and for good reason.
There are two tours through the chateau:
the
main tour
(adult/concession 80/40Kč, in a foreign lan-
guage 150/80Kč)
passes through the Schwarzen-
berg’s ceremonial chambers, including the
private apartments of Duchess Leonora, the
ornate reception rooms and the grandiose
large dining room with space for 72 guests.
A dash through the armoury provides a con-
trast. The
second tour
(adult/concession 80/50Kč, in a
foreign language 150/80Kč)
delves into the chateau’s
unique kitchen, where the families’ favourite
recipes are still on show.
Unless the chateau is crowded, tours do not
run between 12.30pm and 1pm and the last
tour commences an hour before closing time.
The chateau grounds are open year-round,
free of charge.
The exquisite
South Bohemian Aleš gallery
(Alšova jihočeská galérie;
%
387 967 041; www.aig.cz;
adult/concession 40/20Kč;
h
9am-noon & 1-6pm May-Sep,
to 4pm Oct-Apr)
is to the right of the castle gate, in
a former riding school (jízdárna). On display
is a fabulous permanent collection of Czech
religious art from the 14th to 16th centuries,
plus 17th-century Dutch masters and chang-
ing exhibits of modern art.
Sleeping & Eating
The tourist information centre can recom-
mend private rooms. Also watch for
‘Zimmer
frei’
or
‘privát’
signs along Masarykovo.
Autokemping Křivonovska
(
%
387 965 285; tent/
bungalow per person 65/220Kč;
h
May-15 Sep;
p
)
Three
kilometres north of Hluboká at Křivonovska,
this place includes bungalows.
Pension Kalivoda
(
%
387 965 608; www.kalivoda
.info; Nádražní 528; s/d incl breakfast 600/800Kč;
pi
)
The friendly Kalivoda is just across the river
in the suburb of Zámostí.
Hotel Štekl
(
%
387 967 491; www.bohemiagold.cz; s/d
incl breakfast from 3500/3900Kč;
pas
)
Originally
part of the castle, the Štekl was converted in
1997 into an opulent hotel where it’s now easy
to feel like a lord or a lady.
Pizzerie Ionia
(
%
387 963 109; Masarykova 33; pizza
90Kč)
Opposite the tourist office, Ionia is gener-
ous with their pizza toppings and the amount
of red, green and white paint they’ve splashed
on to create a suitably Italian ambience.
Getting There & Away
Buses run from České Budějovice to Hluboká’s
main square every 30 to 60 minutes (16Kč, 20
minutes).
AROUND HLUBOKÁ
The baroque
Ohrada chateau
(
%
387 865 340; www
.nzm.cz; adult/concession 40/20Kč;
h
9am-5.30pm Jul-Aug,
9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun May & Sep, 9am-2pm Tue-Fri to 3.30pm
Sat & Sun Apr & Oct)
is 2km southwest of Hluboká. A
former Schwarzenberg hunting lodge, it’s now
a museum of hunting and forestry featuring
wildlife, hunting trophies and odd furniture
made from antlers. A small
zoo
is attached.
Public transport is irregular, but the castle
is a pleasant walk from Hluboká.
ČESKÝ KRUMLOV
pop 14,000
Crowned by a spectacular castle, and centred
on an elegant old town square, Český Krum-
lov is a pocket-sized Prague. Renaissance and
ÀESKÝ KRUMLOV
0
200 m
0
0.1 miles
To Àeské
A
B
C
D
Budêjovice
(26km)
INFORMATION
Former Church of St Jošt........
17
B4
SLEEPING
Àeská Spoåitelna & ATM.........
1
B4
Former Riding School.............
18
A3
Hospoda Na Lou¢i...............(see 48)
Café Internet.........................(see 7)
Krumlov Chateau...................
19
B3
hostel postel..........................
28
A5
Chequepoint............................
2
B3
Maleàek................................
20
C4
Hotel Rû¢e............................
29
C4
1
Infocentrum.............................
3
B4
Marian Plague Column..........
21
B4
Hotel u Václava.....................
30
C4
Laundromat Lobo....................
4
C3
Marionette Museum............(see 17)
Hotel Zlatý Andêl...................
31
B4
Raiffeisen Bank.........................
5
B4
Minorite Monastery...............
22
C3
Krumlov House......................
32
D5
Shakespeare & Sons.................
6
B4
Museum of Torture................
23
B4
Old Inn Hotel.........................
33
B4
UNIOS Tourist Service.............
7
C3
Red Gate...............................
24
C3
Pension Barbakán..................
34
C4
Vltava Tourist Services.............
8
B4
Regional Museum..................
25
C4
Pension Danny.......................
35
C3
Round Tower.........................
26
B3
Pension Lobo.........................(see 4)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Town Hall..............................(see 3)
Pension u Àerného PSA.........
36
C5
Bear Pit....................................
9
B3
Pension U Galerie..................
37
A5
To Train
Budêjovická Gate...................
10
C2
Pension U Pivovaru................
38
C3
51
Station
Chateau Theatre....................
11
A3
(500m)
Penzión Ve Vê¢i....................
39
D3
Church of Bo¢ího Têla...........
12
C3
U Malého Vítka......................
40
B4
Church of St Vitus..................
13
B4
2
Convent of the Poor Clares....
14
C3
Eggenberg Brewery...............
15
D3
To Lake Lipno
54
(22km)
Egon Schiele Centrum............
16
B4
10
Š p i à á k
Chval
Post Office
Jelení
Zahrada
To Hospital
38
4
39
(200m)
12
14
46
35
3
53
44
22
19
18
7
9
24
15
11
Most Na
26
Plášti
Castle
Steps
EATING
Nové
Zámecká
(Castle Gardens)
2
zahrada
Cikánská jizba..................
41
B4
Weir
45
17
L a t r á n
30
Kràma v Šatlavské............
42
B4
Lazebnický
Dlo
Bridge
Laibon.............................
43
B4
50
41
Nonna Gina.....................
44
C3
6
40
43
Papa’s Living Restaurant..
45
C4
Potraviny.........................
46
C3
Vnitåní Mêsto
23
47
5
(Inner Town)
4
3
33
DRINKING
nám
25
52
Svornosti
Horor Bar.........................
47
B4
42
16
Horní
21
Hospoda Na Lou¢i...........
48
B4
nám
34
29
1
13
31
Na lou¢i
Hrozen Music Bar............
49
B4
49
48
U Dwau Maryí.................
50
B4
20
8
ENTERTAINMENT
Kino.................................
51
C2
37
28
36
Mêstské Divadlo..............
52
C4
Mêstské sady
TRANSPORT
Bus Station......................
53
D3
Spiàák Bus Stop...............
54
B2
5
32
To Inge Tour (1km);
Kemp Nové Spolí (2km)
To Slupenec
Stables (2.5km)
baroque buildings enclose the meandering arc
of the Vltava river, housing riverside cafés and
bars. Following architectural neglect during
the communist era, the undeniable fairy-tale
beauty of Český Krumlov is radiant again,
with thoughtful restoration transforming the
heritage buildings lining the narrow lanes into
cosy restaurants and classy boutique hotels.
After earning a spot on Unesco’s World
Heritage List in 1992, Český Krumlov has
become the Czech Republic’s second busiest
tourist town after Prague. Visit in summer
and it may feel like a theme park, with street
performers punctuating every corner, and
tour buses overwhelming the car parks. But
come a few months either side of July and
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