Chair - Lounge chair.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - amok10

RECLINE IN THE SUMMERTIME

Get comfortable on the patio or deck with this sturdy reclining

lounge chair

As early as the eighth century B.C., the Greeks used a piece of

furniture called the “kline,” for lounging during meals instead of sitting

on a chair. The kline was also used at social gatherings involving wine,

music and conversation, the same things we enjoy when relaxing

outdoors in Canadian summers.

The 19th century produced a European

version of the kline, the chaise lounge,

which is, in turn, the predecessor of this

lounger. Today you’ll find the lounge chair in

prominent use around pools, on decks, at

the cottage or on the topsides of luxury

ocean liners.

This project aims to enhance the lazy

summer day’s experience of a cool drink

and a good book. And better yet, although

this simple, elegant design is long on

history, it’s short on construction time.

Begin by preparing the parts you’ll need,

beginning with a template for the stringers. A

piece of scrap 1/4" plywood or even heavy

cardboard measuring 4" x 78" will do the

trick. Draw the profile for the stringers on

this material, including an optional freehand undulation behind the seat

back and where your hips will rest on the lounge.

Once you are satisfied with the profile of your template, trace it onto

two pieces of wood, then cut them out with a bandsaw or jigsaw. With

both stringers cut, clamp or screw them together so you can sand both

at the same time to identical profiles. I used a belt sander with an 80-

grit abrasive for this job. Tip the machine forward a bit so the front

roller gets into any curved areas of your stringers. If you screw the

stringers together where the leg bolt holes will go later, you’ll avoid

making unnecessary marks on the wood. When you’re done, separate

the stringers and lay them out so they’re at the ready on your

workbench.

Using the top end of your plywood stringer template, transfer the

shape to the wood you roughed-out for the backrest stringers. Saw

these, then sand the edges as you did with the main stringers. At this

point you can cut, sand and finish all pieces on the materials list. This

not only saves time, but glue squeeze-out won’t stain your project as it

would bare wood.

Next, lay out the slats for the lounge surface. I used a piece of 1/2"

ply as a spacer between slats to make sure the spacing was

consistent. Once you’re satisfied with this positioning, mark where the

centre of each slat will join with the main stringers. These marks

indicate where you’ll plunge slots for the #10 biscuits that secure the

slats. These biscuits work together with 5/8" x 5/8" support strips

fastened to the inside of the stringers with screws to support the weight

of people using the lounge. Add these later.

You can adjust the incline of

the lounger’s back by

moving the prop from one

notch to the next. Or flatten

the chair for summertime

snoozing. The side table

holds your book and

ref

You will need:

For the lounge surface

Size

Qty.

Stringers

1 3/8" x 3 1/2" x 75"

Support strips

5/8" x 5/8" x 37"

reshments

Backrest stringers

1 3/8" x 3 1/2" x 32"

Back legs

1 3/8" x 3 1/2" x 9"

Front legs

1 3/8" x 5" x 9"

Lounge slats

3/4" x 2 1/2" x 22"

Backrest slats

3/4" x 2 1/2" x 19"

Wide table runners

5/8" x 1 3/8" x 25"

Narrow table runners

5/8" x 5/8" x 25"

Table slats

5/8" x 2 1/2" x 14"

Table edges

5/8" x 5/8" x 14"

Table stiffeners

5/8" x 5/8" x 12"

Table levelers

3/8" x 1 1/4" x 22"

Adjusters

3/4" x 2 1/2" x 12"

Adjuster dowel

1" dia. x 20" *

Connector dowel

1" dia. x 23" *

Hardware

Leg and backrest bolts/inserts

5/16" x 3"

Adjuster bolts/inserts

5/16" x 2"

Adjuster dowel screws

#6 x 1 1/2"

Table runner screws

#8 x 2 1/2"

* Custom-cut dowel length to fit your lounge

RECLINE IN THE SUMMERTIME (part 2)

Next, drill all holes for the leg bolts and dowels. The plans show where

the parts go. I used a Forstner bit for this job because it cuts such

clean edges, although you could use a sharp brad-point bit instead.

You can now cut the dowel that fits between the main stringers to

length. Set the slats between the stringers so you can measure the

required dowel length exactly.

The pull-out beverage tray is

stabilized by levelling strips

(above). The back of the

lounge chair reclines at

various angles, thanks to

notches in the backrest

adjuster (below). This project

was made entirely with

Douglas fir

Fasten the legs to the stringers with

5/16"-dia. x 3" connecting bolts that thread

into metal inserts set into the wood. Install

the threaded inserts, test-fit the legs, then

set them aside.

Now it’s time for glue. I used a

weatherproof glue for securing the slats,

beginning with those on one stringer first.

Set them in place with biscuits, then use

your 1/2" plywood block to check and adjust

spacing. Adjust the slats so they’re all square to one stringer, then let

everything dry before repeating the process with the other stringer.

You’ll find that this second side takes a bit of patience, since the

slats you put in want to wiggle out as you work on the others. I fixed

this problem with a loose pipe clamp installed across the stringers at

one end of the frame. Tighten it slowly as you add slats and things

should go well. It also helps to keep a scrap of wood underneath the

slats, so they don’t fall down if their biscuits happen to pull away from

the wood.

Once all the slats are loosely in place, persuade the one-inch dowel

into place between the stringers as a final assembly step. Clamp the

lounge along its length when all pieces are in position, checking again

for spacing and check for square before allowing the glue to dry.

The plans show the added support strip required underneath the

slats along each stringer. If you’ve made your stringers curved,

custom-cut the support strip to match this shape using the stringer

template as a guide.

Duplicating the assembly process with the backrest will be a snap

after the practice you’ve had. When it’s dry, bolt the completed

backrest to the lounge stringers, as shown in the plans. With the main

part of the project finished, fasten the legs.

Next comes the adjustable backrest prop assembly. Fasten the two

adjuster pieces to either side of the backrest using two-inch bolts and

washers. The plans show how the washers act as spacers, ensuring

that the backrest adjusters operate freely.

With these parts in place, measure the distance between them and

cut a length of dowel to go between the parts. Be sure the adjusting

unit is square to the backrest, then secure the dowel with glue and one

#6 x 1 1/2" screw at each end.

Now it’s time to move on to the sliding

table. Make up the two L-shaped runner

assemblies using the wide and narrow table

runner parts. The table surface itself is made

using the same method as the lounge, with

slats connected to edge pieces. I used glue

and a brad nail gun shooting 1 1/2"

fasteners to attach the table edges and

stiffeners to the table slats. When the table

is ready, clamp the L-shaped runners to the

underside of the lounge, then slip the table

in place. When you’re happy with the sliding

action, mark the rail positions and remove

the assembly. You’ll need to attach the

leveler pieces to the runners before securing

the assembly to the lounge. These allow the

table to pull out without tipping forward.

Place the levelers 1 1/2" back from the runner ends so they sit just

inside the stringers.

Whether you’re at home next to the barbeque, at the cottage or

eating peeled grapes while discussing Plato, you’ll enjoy the fruits of

CLICK THESE THUMBNAILS

FOR LARGER IMAGES

your labour relaxing on your own version of the kline lounger.

Chair - Lounge chair.pdf

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