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Before building any outdoor structure
near a neighbor's land, be sure you know
exactly where your property lines lie.
Start by studying the lot plat, or map, that
was furnished with the title to the land.
When mapping the land, the surveyors
drove metal stakes into the ground at the
corners of the plot to serve as property
markers. If you can locate one of them,
your property map and a little basic
geometry will enable you to find the
others. You can determine the boundaries
by driving stakes next to the markers,
then stretching string between the stakes.
Once the boundaries are established,
a few simple surveying techniques and
tools will enable you to map the location
and size of the structure you want to
build. Distances can be measured fairly
accurately with a mason's line, wooden
stakes, and a carpenter's tape measure,
but keep at least 12 inches from a proper-
ty line when siting a structure to avoid ac-
cidentally straying onto a neighbor's land.
To sight lines for pouring foundations, or
to establish perfect parallels or right an-
gles to property lines, use a transit level.
Tape measure
Maul
Shovel
Magnetic stud finder
Transit level
Before positioning or excavating
trenches, find the locations of
underground obstacles such
as dry wells, septic tanks, and cesspools,
and electric, water, and sewer lines.
Wooden stakes
Tall poles
Powdered chalk
Mason's line
Clear plastic hose
Working from two known markers.
• With a maul, drive a wooden stake next to a known
marker. (Property markers may be lost in undergrowth or a
few inches underground.)
• Attach a length of mason's line equal to the distance be-
tween the known marker and the lost marker, as indicated
on your property map.
• Mark an arc on the ground near the lost marker with
powdered chalk
(right).
• Repeat the procedure at another known marker.
• Dig for the lost marker at the intersection of the arcs
(inset).
Working from a single marker.
• Mark an arc on the ground with chalk over the approximate
location of the hidden marker
(above).
• Brush a magnetic stud finder along the arc
(left).
When the
stud finder's needle deflects, dig for the marker. If the stud finder
does not work, try using a metal detector. The final recourse is
to call in a professional surveyor to reestablish the property lines.
Sighting a straight
line over a hill.
• Drive a stake at both the
starting and unseen points.
• Stand at one stake, station
a helper at the other, and
have two more helpers hold
tall poles in between at
points where the tops of
the poles can be seen from
both stake positions
(right
and inset).
• Sighting from your stake,
signal the pole holder near-
est you to move until the
two poles are in a straight
line from your view.
• Have the helper at the
unseen point repeat the
procedure with the second
pole person.
• Alternate sightings until
the poles appear in line from both positions.
• Connect the four points with mason's line.
Finding level points on a slope.
You can find a point on a stake or post
that is level with a mark on another by
using a water level or a clear plastic
hose partly filled with water.
• Make a mark at the desired
or
known height on the first post.
• Position the hose between the posts
as shown. Hold one end a few inches
above the mark you have made and
have a helper hold the other end at
about the same height.
• Fill the hose with water until the
level reaches the mark.
• Make sure there are no air bubbles—
if there are, block and lower one
end to allow the bubble to rise to
the surface.
• Finally, mark the second post at the
water level in the hose
(left).
Anatomy of a transit level.
This professional surveying tool is
essentially a tripod-mounted movable
telescope with precise scales for read-
ing vertical and horizontal angles. The
20-power telescope pivots at its center
for vertical measurements and the entire
mounting carriage rotates on the under-
carriage for horizontal ones. A small
spirit level mounted under the telescope
assists in leveling and plumbing the
instrument. A hook for a plumb bob
hangs from the base plate; the under-
carriage slides over the base plate to
position the bob over a stake or marker,
and four leveling screws are used to set
the level. Angles are measured on ver-
tical and horizontal scales; when only
horizontal measurements are needed,
as on the following pages, a pair of
levers locks the telescope in the level
position. Slow-motion screws allow
you to zero in on the sighting stake
by turning the telescope; clamp screws
then lock the transit in position.
In addition to setting straight lines or
right angles
(pages 12-13),
a transit
level can be used to measure a
range of horizontal and vertical an-
gles. Horizontal angles are read on
a 360-degree circular scale divided
into four 90-degree arcs
(top left),
vertical angles on a 90-degree arc
(bottom, left).
Small auxiliary scales
called verniers serve as pointers for
the main scales and give readings in
sixtieths of a degree, or minutes.
If the zero mark on
the vernier falls between
two degree marks on the
main scale, read the lower mark
and use the vernier to calculate
the fraction in minutes. Reading
upward from the degree mark, find
the mark on the vernier that lines up
perfectly with a mark on the main
scale. Count the vernier spaces
between the two main-scale marks.
Each space stands for 5 minutes;
multiply the number of spaces
by five to get a
reading in minutes.
The sighting at right
reads 17 degrees
15 minutes.
1. Positioning the tripod.
• Spread the tripod legs over a marker to be used as a starting
point. Move the legs one at a time until the plumb bob hangs
no more than 1/4 inch from the center of the marker.
• Loosen the screw under the base plate and shift the transit
level so the plumb bob is directly over the center of the stake.
• Tighten the base-plate screw.
2. Leveling the transit.
• Set the vertical scale to zero.
• Loosen the horizontal clamp screws and turn the
telescope until it aligns with one pair of leveling screws.
• Turn these screws until the bubble in the level is
centered
(left).
• Rotate the telescope 90 degrees to align it with the
other pair of screws; adjust these screws the same way.
• Repeat as needed, making minor adjustments so the
bubble in the level remains centered as the telescope
swings full circle.
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