C4x4 Tow Hooks (97up).pdf

97+ XJ Hook install

(Using the Custom 4x4 Fabrication kit)

Tools you need:

Tools that make it easier, but

aren't a necessity:

• T50 Torx bit

• T25 Torx bit

• 8MM socket

• 10MM socket

• 12MM socket

• 17MM socket

• 10MM flat wrench

• measuring tape

• ratchet

• Philips screwdriver

• keyhole saw (small handheld saw for

opening the holes in the air dam) and a

file

• Small work light (available at Home

Depot for under $20)

• Clip removal tool (see first pic)

• WD-40 (well, I don't know if

this is "optional")

• section of pipe to use as breaker

bar

• drill and bit (to get rid of those

rivets)

Slide under the truck and start by

using the clip removal tool to pop

out the black plastic clips that hold

the rubber covers on each side of

the font end (1 on each side). It's

also a good idea to go ahead and

pop out the ones that hold up the big

rubber flap along the bottom edge of

the bumper.

The picture shows the rubber flap

with the front of the Jeep at the

bottom of the pic.

There are three bolts and a rivet that

hold each end cap on, as well as one

plastic tab on the top inside edge.

Two of the bolts are 8mm bolts

where the end cap meets the fender

right in front of the front wheels.

You can see it here with the light on

it. Having a small compressor w/ an

air ratchet saves you a lot of time

here, but either way, get these two

bolts out. The other two bolts are in

the next step.

The right side is shown here.

There is a 10mm bolt here behind

the fog light hole, and one rivet at

the bottom of the air dam. You can

leave the rivet in and deal with the

end caps flapping around as you

take the bumper off, or just drill

them out in 10 seconds and replace

them with a nut and bolt.

To get the bolt out, use a 10mm

socket with a ratchet on the bottom

side, and hold the nut on top with a

10mm flat wrench.

The picture shows the right side,

with the front of the Jeep on the left.

Once you get the bolts out (and rivet

if you want), here's how to get the

caps off:

There is a tab shown here on the

inside top edge of the cap. To

remove the cap, push it outward

(from the center of the Jeep out

towards the side of the Jeep) about a

half inch, then pull it towards you

(assuming you're standing in front

of the truck facing it).

Driver side cap slot show here. To

remove the cap, slide it to your right

(from the center of the truck

outwards), and then pull it towards

you.

To put it back on, slip the tab into

the slot, and slide it towards your

left.

Before you take out the Torx bits

that hold the bumper on, you'll

probably want to take out the grill

(and headlight bezels, since they are

on top) first.

It's only four Philips screws (and

two at the top of each headlight

bezel). Take out the screws, pull the

top edge down, then lift the tabs on

the grill off the bottom.

The charcoal canister mounts to the

bumper on the passenger side of the

bumper. Use a T25 Torx bit to take

out these two screws so you don't

get hung up when you go to pull the

bumper away.

After that's off, use a T50 Torx bit

to remove the four bumper bolts and

pull the bumper away (if you have

fog lights, don't forget to unplug the

harnesses first).

Here you can see the charcoal

canister and the bumper brackets.

Don't get ahead of yourself

here; only remove one

bumper bracket, install the

new brace, and use the other

unmoved bracket as a

measuring guide so the

bumper lines up when you're

done!

To get the bolts loose, spray them

with WD-40, and use a section of

pipe slid over your ratchet for

leverage.

The front bolts go into the clips; the

rear bolt goes into a threaded boss

in the frame (the reason two of the

bolts in your kit don't have nuts)

Put the really long bolt in the

furthest back hole. Four more bolts

hold the brace and bracket together

with the factory bracket on top.

NOTE: before you start to crank

these down, measure the distance

from the edge of the grill to the

beginning of the hole on the still

install factory bracket on the other

side. Also measure the gap between

the bracket and the bottom edge of

the grill (up and own). Make sure

you newly mounted brackets are the

same.

Note 2: before you crank these

down, drop the front hook bolt

through the hole and leave it in

there. Once I tightened the factory

bumper bracket in place, the bolt

wasn't able to slip past the edge of it

into the hole, so I had to loosen it up

again. The pics were taken before I

loosened it and put the bolt through.

Once you've got them fairly snug

and adjusted to match the factory

bracket, crank these things down

tight. I added a little Loc-Tite too.

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