Amundsen, Ronald - The South Pole (Vol. I & II).txt

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Amundsen, Ronald - The South Pole, Vol. 1
The South Pole
An Account of the Norwegian
Antarctic Expedition in the "Fram,"
1910 -- 1912
by Roald Amundsen
Translated from the Norwegian by
A. G. Chater
In Two Volumes
Vol. I
To
My Comrades,
The Brave Little Band That Promised
In Funchal Roads
To Stand by Me in the Struggle for the
South Pole,
I Dedicate this Book.
Roald Amundsen.
Uranienborg,
August 15, 1912.
The First Account
On February 10, 1911, we started for the South to
establish depots, and continued our journey until
April 11. We formed three depots and stored in them
3 tons of provisions, including 22 hundredweight of seal
meat. As there were no landmarks, we had to indicate
the position of our depots by flags, which were posted at
a distance of about four miles to the east and west. The
first barrier afforded the best going, and was specially
adapted for dog-sledging. Thus, on February 15 we
did sixty-two miles with sledges. Each sledge weighed
660 pounds, and we had six dogs for each. The upper
barrier ("barrier surface") was smooth and even. There
were a few crevasses here and there, but we only found
them dangerous at one or two points. The barrier
went in long, regular undulations. The weather was
very favourable, with calms or light winds. The lowest
temperature at this station was -49[degree] F., which was
taken on March 4.
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When we returned to winter quarters on February 5
from a first trip, we found that the Fram had already
left us. With joy and pride we heard from those who
had stayed behind that our gallant captain had succeeded
in sailing her farther south than any former ship.
So the good old Fram has shown the flag of Norway
both farthest north and farthest south. The most
southerly latitude reached by the Fram was 78[degree] 41'.
Before the winter set in we had 60 tons of seal
meat in our winter quarters; this was enough for ourselves
and our 110 dogs. We had built eight kennels
and a number of connecting tents and snow huts.
When we had provided for the dogs, we thought of ourselves.
Our little hut was almost entirely covered with
snow. Not till the middle of April did we decide to
adopt artificial light in the hut. This we did with the
help of a Lux lamp of 200 candle-power, which gave an
excellent light and kept the indoor temperature at
about 68[degree] F. throughout the winter. The ventilation
was very satisfactory, and we got sufficient fresh air.
The hut was directly connected with the house in which
we had our workshop, larder, storeroom, and cellar,
besides a single bathroom and observatory. Thus we
had everything within doors and easily got at, in case
the weather should be so cold and stormy that we could
not venture out.
The sun left us on April 22, and we did not see it
again for four months. We spent the winter in altering
our whole equipment, which our depot journeys had
shown to be too heavy and clumsy for the smooth
barrier surface. At the same time we carried out all
the scientific work for which there was opportunity.
We made a number of surprising meteorological observations.
There was very little snow, in spite of there
being open water in the neighbourhood. We had
expected to observe higher temperatures in the course of
the winter, but the thermometer remained very low.
During five months temperatures were observed varying
between -58[degree] and -74[degree] F. We had the lowest (-74[degree] F.)
on August 13; the weather was calm. On August 1
we had -72[degree] F. with a wind of thirteen miles an hour.
The mean temperature for the year was -15[degree] F. We
expected blizzard after blizzard, but had only two
moderate storms. We made many excellent observations
of the aurora australis in all parts of the heavens.
Our bill of health was the best possible throughout the
whole winter. When the sun returned on August 24
it shone upon men who were healthy in mind and body,
and ready to begin the task that lay before them.
We had brought the sledges the day before to the
starting-point of the southern journey. At the beginning
of September the temperature rose, and it was decided
to commence the journey. On September 8 a party of
eight men set out, with seven sledges and ninety dogs,
provisioned for ninety days. The surface was excellent,
and the temperature not so bad as it might have been.
But on the following day we saw that we had started
too early. The temperature then fell, and remained
for some days between -58[degree] and -75[degree] F. Personally
we did not suffer at all, as we had good fur clothing, but
with the dogs it was another matter. They grew lanker
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and lanker every day, and we soon saw that they would
not be able to stand it in the long run. At our depot
in lat. 80[degree] we agreed to turn back and await the arrival
of spring. After having stored our provisions, we returned
to the hut. Excepting the loss of a few dogs
and one or two frostbitten heels, all was well. It was
not till the middle of October that the spring began in
earnest. Seals and birds were sighted. The temperature
remained steady, between -5[degree] and -22[degree] F.
Meanwhile we had abandoned the original plan, by
which all were to go to the south. Five men were to
do this, while three others made a trip to the east, to
visit King Edward VII. Land. This trip did not form
part of our programme, but as the English did not reach
this land last summer, as had been their intention, we
agreed that it would be best to undertake this journey
in addition.
On October 20 the southern party left. It consisted
of five men with four sledges and fifty-two dogs, and
had provisions for four months. Everything was in
excellent order, and we had made up our minds to take
it easy during the first part of the journey, so that we
and the dogs might not be too fatigued, and we therefore
decided to make a little halt on the 22nd at the
depot that lay in lat. 80[degree]. However, we missed the
mark owing to thick fog, but after two or three miles'
march we found the place again.
When we had rested here and given the dogs as much
seal meat as they were able to eat, we started again on
the 26th. The temperature remained steady, between
-5[degree] and -22[degree] F.
At first we had made up our minds not to drive more
than twelve to eighteen miles a day; but this proved to
be too little, thanks to our strong and willing animals.
At lat. 80[degree] we began to erect snow beacons, about the
height of a man, to show us the way home.
On the 31st we reached the depot in lat. 81[degree]. We
halted for a day and fed the dogs on pemmican. On
November 5 we reached the depot in 82[degree], where for the
last time the dogs got as much to eat as they could
manage.
On the 8th we started southward again, and now
made a daily march of about thirty miles. In order to
relieve the heavily laden sledges, we formed a depot at
every parallel we reached. The journey from lat. 82[degree]
to 83[degree] was a pure pleasure trip, on account of the surface
and the temperature, which were as favourable as one
could wish. Everything went swimmingly until the
9th, when we sighted South Victoria Land and the continuation
of the mountain chain, which Shackleton gives
on his map, running southeast from Beardmore Glacier.
On the same day we reached lat. 83[degree], and established
here Depot No. 4.
On the 11th we made the interesting discovery
that the Ross Barrier ended in an elevation on the
south-east, formed between a chain of mountains
running south-eastward from South Victoria Land
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and another chain on the opposite side, which runs
south-westward in continuation of King Edward VII.
Land.
On the 13th we reached lat. 84[degree], where we established
a depot. On the 16th we got to 85[degree], where
again we formed a depot. From our winter quarters
at Framheim we had marched due south the whole
time.
On November 17, in lat. 85[degree], we came to a spot
where the land barrier intersected our route, though for
the time being this did not cause us any difficulty. The
barrier here rises in the form of a wave to a height of
about 300 feet, and its limit is shown by a few large
fissures. Here we established our main depot. We
took supplies for sixty days on the sledges and left
behind enough provisions for thirty days.
The land under which we now lay, and which we
were to attack, looked perfectly impossible, with peaks
along the barrier which rose to heights of from 2,000 to
10,000 feet. Farther south we saw more peaks, of
15,000 feet or higher.
Next day we began to climb. The first part of the
work was easy, as the ground rose gradually with
smooth snow-slopes below the mountain-side. Our
dogs working well, it did not take us long to get over
these slopes.
At the next point we met with some small, very
steep glaciers, and here we had to harness twenty dogs
to each sledge and take the four sledges in two journeys.
Some places were so steep that it was difficult to use
our ski. Several times we were compelled by deep
crevasses to turn back.
On the first day we climbed 2,000 feet. The next
day we crossed small glaciers, and camped at a height
of 4,635 feet. On the third day we were obliged to
descend the great Axel Heiberg Glacier, which separates
the mountains of the coast from those farther south.
On the following day the longest part of our climbing
began. Many detours had to be made to avoid broad
fissures and open crevasses. Most of them were filled
up, as in all probability the glacier had long ago ceased
to move; but we had to be very careful, neverthele...
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