Testing Elektronic Components - Colin Mitchell.PDF - 00 - Księgozbiór Elektronika - neo666x

This eBook shows you how to TEST COMPONENTS.

To do this you need "TEST GEAR" - and a MULTIMETER - it can

test almost 90% of all components. It's about all you need.

CONTENTS

Analogue Multimeter

Audio Stages

Batteries - testing

Burnt Resistor

Buying A Multimeter

Capacitors

Capacitors in Parallel

Cells - batteries

Colour Code (Resistor)

Coils

Continuity

Creating and value of R

Current - measuring

Damper Diodes

Darlington Transistors

Digital Multimeter

"Open" Resistor - damaged

Opto-couplers

Parallel - resistors

Piezo Diaphragms

Piezo Buzzers

Potentiometers

Pots - testing

Power Diodes

Relays

Remote Controls

Resistor Colour Code

Resistors - series

Schottky Diodes

SCRs

Symbols

Signal Injector

Diodes

Electrolytics

FETs

Focus pots

Fuses

Germanium Diodes

Impedance - of a stage

Inductors

Inductors - measuring

Integrated Circuits

Isolation Transformer

LEDs

Logic Probe MkIIB

Logic Probe - Simple

Logic Probe - using CD4001

Logic Probe - using CD4011

Making your own

components

Measuring Resistance

Measuring Voltage

MOSFETs

Multimeters

Silicon diodes

Super Probe MkII

Surface Mount - Packs

Surface-Mount Resistors

Surface-Mount Resistor Markings

Switches

Testing A Circuit

Testing A Resistor

Transformers

Transistor Outlines

Transistors

Triacs

Unknown resistors - testing

Using A Multimeter

Voltage Regulators

Voltages on a circuit

Yokes

Zener Diodes

4-Band Resistors

5-Band Resistors

MULTIMETERS

There are two types:

DIGITAL and ANALOGUE

A Digital Multimeter has a set of digits on the display and an Analogue Multimeter

has a scale with a pointer (or needle).

You really need both types to cover the number of tests needed for designing and

repair-work. We will discuss how they work, how to use them and some of the

differences between them.

DIGITAL AND ANALOGUE MULTIMETERS

BUYING A MULTIMETER

There are many different types on the market.

The cost is determined by the number of ranges and also the extra features such as

diode tester, buzzer (continuity), transistor tester, high DC current and others.

Since most multimeters are reliable and accurate, buy one with the greatest number of

ranges at the lowest cost.

This article explains the difference between a cheap analogue meter, an expensive

analogue meter and a digital meter. You will then be able to work out which two

meters you should buy.

Multimeters are sometimes called a "meter", a "VOM" (Volts-Ohms-Milliamps or Volt

Ohm Meter) or "multi-tester" or even "a tester" - they are all the same.

USING A MULTIMETER

Analogue and digital multimeters have either a rotary selector switch or push buttons

to select the appropriate function and range. Some Digital Multimeter (DMMs) are auto

ranging; they automatically select the correct range of voltage, resistance, or current

when doing a test. However you need to select the function.

Before making any measurement you need to know what you are checking. If you are

measuring voltage, select the AC range (10v, 50v, 250v, or 1000v) or DC range

(0.5v, 2.5v, 10v, 50v, 250v, or 1000v). If you are measuring resistance, select the

Ohms range (x1, x10, x100, x1k, x10k). If you are measuring current, select the

appropriate current range DCmA 0.5mA, 50mA, 500mA. Every multimeter is different

however the photo below shows a low cost meter with the basic ranges.

The most important point to remember is this:

You must select a voltage or current range that is bigger or HIGHER than the

maximum expected value, so the needle does not swing across the scale and hit the

"end stop."

If you are using a DMM (Digital Multi Meter), the meter will indicate if the voltage or

current is higher than the selected scale, by showing "OL" - some think this means

"Open Loop" but it really means "Overload." Some meters show "1' on the display

when the measurement is higher than the display will indicate and some flash a set of

digits to show over-voltage or over-current. A "-1" indicates the leads should be

reversed for a "positive reading."

If it is an AUTO RANGING meter, it will automatically produce a reading, otherwise the

selector switch must be changed to another scale.

The Common (negative) lead ALWAYS fits into

the " COM " socket. The red lead fits into the

red socket for Voltage and Resistance.

Place the red lead (red banana plug)

into "A" (for HIGH CURRENT "Amps")

or mA,uA for LOW CURRENT.

The black "test lead" plugs into the socket marked "-" "Common", or "Com," and the

red "test lead" plugs into meter socket marked "+" or "V-W-mA." The third banana

socket measures HIGH CURRENT and the positive (red lead) plugs into this. You DO

NOT move the negative "-" lead at any time.

The following two photos show the test leads fitted to a digital meter. The probes and

plugs have "guards" surrounding the probe tips and also the plugs so you can measure

high voltages without getting near the voltage-source.

Testing Elektronic Components - Colin Mitchell.PDF

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